Okay so I am having an issue where my engine is running extremely rich and when I kick on the mower it chugs and barely runs.
My first troubleshooting is that I replaced both plugs, didn't work.. so I also ended up replacing the carb and fuel pump only to after that didn't fix it, I noticed one of the brand new plugs (left) was sooted up already. So I unplugged that plug and the mower didn't start at all. Plugged the left back in and unplugged the right and it ran exactly as if both were plugged in. At this point my assumption was a bad ignition coil so I replaced the coil on that right side.
However, that also did not fix the issue. Runs like shit and very rich with the left side only and not at all with the right side only.
Check the valve clearances on the right side. If they are within specs, which I doubt, I would then check for leaks between the carb and head. Either bad gaskets or cracked manifold. No problem there, blown head gasket. I’m assuming that you have already checked for spark after changing the coil.
#3
Rpgowned
Uh I think I figured it out.. how do I fix this? The rocker rod is unattached and comes completely out.
Need to reset valve clearance. First check to see if the valve guides are sticking out close to the same length. Not that the guide on that one has migrated up.
#5
Rpgowned
The top one also does not look straight not sure if that's normal. It bows upwards
Also, I have 0 idea what reset valve clearance means/how that is accomplished if that still matters. It looks like the lower is about 1/4 of an inch shorter(farther in) maybe a little more than the upper.
Looks to me like you have a bent push rod. Remove it and roll it on a very flat surface, will tell you very quickly if bent.
#9
Rpgowned
Yeah, I can tell it's bent very easily by just looking at it. It's pretty drastic. So after I replace that is there anything else I should check that would have caused it to bend in the first place? Or would the fact that the bottom rod dislodged cause it to bend? I noticed the bottom rod that was off the bolt that was holding the rocker on was extremely loose so I'm guessing that's how that fell off. I opened the cover on the other side and one of those was fairly loose as well so I tightened that up.
Also the parts manual has both steel and aluminum. Which should I get? Or does it matter?
I use aluminum for intake and steel for exhaust, but there are those who disagree with me. I suspect that your valve clearance changed on that valve causing it to jump and bend. I would be also checking and setting the clearance on both valves on the other side.
I use aluminum for intake and steel for exhaust, but there are those who disagree with me. I suspect that your valve clearance changed on that valve causing it to jump and bend. I would be also checking and setting the clearance on both valves on the other side.
Awesome thanks, I really appreciate all the help. Do you happen to know if there is a video or something that can show me how to check and set the clearance? Or is it easy enough that it can be explained to someone like me who doesn't necessarily know what all of the parts are? I tend to tinker and fix my stuff by my engine knowledge is minimal.
So, I got that all figured out and replaced and it runs somewhat now. Thank you so much for your help thus far. However, on that same side now the exhaust gets really hot and starts smoking almost immediately once I engage the mower deck. It also has what sounds like very small backfires/popping sounds. The rocker cover is blistering hot to the touch on that side as well. This is after maybe 10/15 seconds of run time. The other side is not cool but nowhere near as hot. Maybe 1/4 the temp
Something else that seems odd and maybe it was just me and this isn't the case. But it actually seems to run considerably smoother if I pull the spark plug wire off either side and just run on one side regardless of the side. there is no performance difference between the two when run solo. It doesn't seem to pop or smoke when I engage the mower deck either. I only ran like this for a very very short period of time on each side.
Three things could possibly be causing your overheating problem. More than likely a lean running condition on that cylinder, but could possibly be cooling fins covered in dirt, internal timi problems or even a plugged muffler. If it came into the shop this is what I would be doing, in this order.
1. Pull the spark plug on the hot cylinder and check the color. If it is a bright white it would indicate a lean running condition. This may sound stupid, but I’ve put an old car boned plug into the cylinder and run the unit. If the carbon burns off we know we have a hot running cylinder.
2. Remove the shroud and make sure the cooling fins around that cylinder are clean.
3. With the shroud off I would start the engine and take a can of carb cleaner and spray every gasket between the carb and block, looking for an engine speed change. If it does change, you are sucking air creating a lean running condition. Also spray the entire intake manifold as it may have a hole or crack in it.
4. Nothing found yet I would recheck my valve clearances. Also, you should have some oil in the valve cover when you remove it. Oil is also a cooling agent and no oil means we need to check why.
5. Finally I would pull the muffler looking to see if it has any obstructions, not allowing exhaust gases to escape properly. Compressed air is your friend here, don’t rely on your eyes, mud dubbers have been found to have plugged them up.
From your description I don’t think you have an ignition problem, but I’ve been wrong in the passed. If all these steps fail I’d being looking at internal problems, starting with the head.
This is just how I would tackle this problem, but there are others who say I’m just an old fart and there are better ways to troubleshoot this problem, so don’t rely 100% n this post.
#15
Rpgowned
Okay, so here is a pic of the spark plug and a short video of it running. Fins look fairly clean. After running about 45 seconds or so it looks as if it pushed the gasket (it's a newer gasket) part way out the bottom of the valve cover and it started leaking oil from there. I'm going to wait for it to cool to put the cover back on and try the carb cleaner.
Okay so I think I figured it out? There was a badly torn gasket on the opposite side intake. Where the plastic tubing on the carb meets the engine. However, while I had it running and was spraying the carb cleaner to find that the throttle on the carb raised up then the mower died now it turns over but will not start at all.
Okay, I replaced the gasket as I had a spare and started it back up. Same issue. The one side of the exhaust/muffler gets cherry red hot still. I do notice if I just barely pull the choke a tiny bit it runs a bit smoother without the popping. Doesn't change the heat on that side though. I'll continue through the troubleshooting steps you mentioned above.
I am not clear on what it is that is 1/4" "longer". Did you check the valve guide height as suggested above? Push rods do not bend for no reason. The valve guides should not be more than 1/8" above the head casting. I suspect that the exhaust valve guide has moved which is not repairable according to B&S however, I have a fix which is permanent and cheap. Address below for Service Manual and "Fix" if needed. Put in proper context.
And yes, aluminum push rod goes on the Intake valve on Intek engines. Always on the valve involved in compression release.
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