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18.5 Intek V twin

It runs wide open, with the throttle all the way down. Checked the gov. (3 times, everything turned clockwise then tightened) and it's adjusted properly. The springs are in their correct location (now) But still runs wide open.

The Throttle linkage, when the engine is off, should it return the throttle plate to the idle position? Because I'm thinking this make shift linkage is too short..
push the Gov arm and it'll idle down. But let go of it and it goes back to passed full throttle.

Also, with the engine off, and the throttle linkage connected or removed, the two springs in the back have no tension on them.

So, I made a longer Throttle rod and that helps a lot. But if you just let it idle, the PRM's creep up on their own. And giving it just 1/4 throttle, make the RPM's scream. Bringing the throttle back down, it comes down, but you still have to squeeze it the last little bit (1/16th of an inch) to the low idle position.

First the model posted is invalid.

Second do you really understand how governors work? No the throttle shouldn't be close with engine not runnin but instead it should be wide open. When the engine is running the mechanical governor pushes the throttle close and the springs pulls it open. If you have adjusted the static adjustment and you not getting any push back from the governor then it has failed.

407777 0121 E1.. Sorry bout that.

If the governor has failed, then how can I push the governor arm up, closing the throttle, and it idles down?

If it is staying put after you push to close the throttle then you have a bad bind in the linkages. Of course it is going the idle down when you close the throttle plate.

It governor is working you be able feel it pushing as you increase the engine speed to close the throttle plate.

StarTech said:

If it is staying put after you push to close the throttle then you have a bad bind in the linkages. Of course it is going the idle down when you close the throttle plate.

It governor is working you be able feel it pushing as you increase the engine speed to close the throttle plate.

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Me thinks what you said about the governor failing may be accurate. Because if I give it just a little bit of throttle, it goes wide open. Also, if I close the throttle plate, with the throttle handle all the way to low idle. It'll stay at low idle for a few seconds. But will begin to rev up. And with the throttle plate only a 1/4 of the way open, it revs like the throttle is wide open.

I see what you're talking about turning the gov counter clockwise and the engine idling down. Simply because it connected to the throttle plate. With the throttle cable disconnected, I feel nothing binding at all. The springs on the back are all loose when the throttle plate is in low idle position. And it's not hard to turn the center piece (round thing that the small spring attaches to) of the control bracket. I can do it with just a little pressure and one finger.

When adjusting the governor, it's a dead stop both ways. at not even a 1/4 turn.

With nothing that seems to be binding, and the engine still revving too high with the gov. adjusted, then the only thing it can be is a failed gov. Right?

Only one way left to find out and you know what that is. Just be careful and don't let any of that magic smoke escape.

StarTech said:

Only one way left to find out and you know what that is. Just be careful and don't let any of that magic smoke escape.

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By removing the gov spring, the engine should stay at idle, correct?

Magic smoke?

PTmowerMech said:

By removing the gov spring, the engine should stay at idle, correct?

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Yes it should stay idle or should go to idle whenever you release the throttle. Now if you put at full throttle with the springs off and it stays at full throttle the governor is toast.

Magic smoke?

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Otherwords don't short things out or the wires and electronic will release their magic smoke. This magic smoke is what makes them work. Ever seen a diode or resistor that release it ever work again?[/quote][/QUOTE]

Yup, I disconnected the Gov. spring, and it went wide open.

I can't say I've ever seen one go bad. Although I've only been working on these things a few years, I've never seen a bad one. When replacing cams, I've had to removed these so, It's a pretty easy job, if you can get the crank pulley off easy enough.

LMAO.. So after all that. Customer says he doesn't wanna go through all the expense of fixing it. And to put it back like it was.
Which was the gov spring going from the gov arm. to the bracket, which hold the gov at low idle. And the low idle screw turned in far enough for mowing RPM's.

Looks like if I'm going to make any money around here, I'm gonna have to learn to rigger nig a lot of stuff. SMH.

If it comes that around here it will never get done as I would a get a bad rep that I don't want.

I currently a v-twin Huskee in the shop that owner says she don't want to spend much on it. Well it is dead as it needs a $145 head, two push rods, a voltage regulator, and both drive belts at least. And I would need to go in to retrieve part of the broken aluminum push rod so there is the crankcase gasket. All because she ran it with a mouse bed over #2 cylinder and BBQ a mouse.

Her complaint was just the battery going dead.

StarTech said:

If it comes that around here it will never get done as I would a get a bad rep that I don't want.

I currently a v-twin Huskee in the shop that owner says she don't want to spend much on it. Well it is dead as it needs a $145 head, two push rods, a voltage regulator, and both drive belts at least. And I would need to go in to retrieve part of the broken aluminum push rod so there is the crankcase gasket. All because she ran it with a mouse bed over #2 cylinder and BBQ a mouse.

Her complaint was just the battery going dead.

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And that, my fine feathered friend, is how we end up with soooo many parts mowers in the back. LOL

I rarely keep a mower for parts here as the owners seems to always want me to buy them. Even with an estimate fee they pick them back up. I did acquire one last year but no telling when I going be the hydro of it. To be honest I don't need a bunch junk mowers sitting rusting away.

StarTech said:

I rarely keep a mower for parts here as the owners seems to always want me to buy them. Even with an estimate fee they pick them back up. I did acquire one last year but no telling when I going be the hydro of it. To be honest I don't need a bunch junk mowers sitting rusting away.

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Man, I used soooo many parts off the mowers I had, that now that I don't have but a couple, I'm always missing my parts mower stash. Gas tanks, seats, wheels, tires, and a whole slew of other stuff that was pure profit. Especially when you have many customers who are lower middle class and below. They don't mind used parts, like choke cables. I never sold junk, by any means. In fact, a lot of the used parts I sold were actually pretty good.
Someone comes in with a bad compression release, after installing the normal new stuff.. Battery & starter. Then finding out that the bill is going to be $250 to $350, a lot of them would just let me have it, so they could either get a price reduction on a used mower I had ready to sell, Or just because they were tired of it and wanted a new one.
Either way, used parts isn't as bad as some make them out to be. If the customer is OK with a used part, then I'm ok to sell him one.

Not sure if I made the right decision. But I think I did.

Customer wants me to replace the deck belt too. But I turned him down. Saying I don't wanna touch the mower with the government jerry rigged like it is. I'm thinking the spring breaks, engine over rev's, he or one of his kids get's confused and excited. And the engine blows. or something worse happens.
And being the last one who worked on it, could end up being liable.

StarTech said:

Yes it should stay idle or should go to idle whenever you release the throttle. Now if you put at full throttle with the springs off and it stays at full throttle the governor is toast.


Otherwords don't short things out or the wires and electronic will release their magic smoke. This magic smoke is what makes them work. Ever seen a diode or resistor that release it ever work again?

Click to expand...

[/QUOTE]
[/QUOTE]
Yo, Star, don't be divulging all the secrets. Most people still believe that silly electron flow thing is how electrical things work. WE know the truth about magic smoke. ?