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I was running my Husqvarna 24v48 the other day, fuel was running low, and it quit. So I hunted up some fuel, found my can, but unbeknownst to me my Wife had filled my GAS can with farm diesel for the tractor . I started to pour and stopped immediately when I saw red fuel coming out. I don't think that is my problem but just thought I would mention the minuscule amount of diesel fuel.

I filled the tank with gasoline and tried to crank it; nothing. So I figured maybe trash was in the carburetor. Tore into the breather and discovered the filter had been leaking and the carburetor was full of dirt. I removed the carburetor, cleaned it meticulously with carb cleaner, toothbrush, air and rebuilt it with new gaskets, float valve and a new solenoid. Cleaned out the breather housing and the intake manifold, installed new fuel lines, new filter, new fuel pump, new plugs and checked them for spark. The plugs are sparking and the clean carburetor is getting fresh gas but she still won't start.

spray some carburetor cleaner through the throat or "venturi", and see if it fires, if it does fuel is not getting THROUGH your carburetor. probably a small clogged hole in a jet or float level set improperly....
whats the engine model number?

Scrubcadet10 said:

spray some carburetor cleaner through the throat or "venturi", and see if it fires, if it does fuel is not getting THROUGH your carburetor. probably a small clogged hole in a jet or float level set improperly....
whats the engine model number?

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OR that new solenoid you installed is not working. Does it click when key is turned on? Don't know why you would replace that unless known bad.

Walt Conner

Engine model is 44R877-0001-G1

Tinkerer200 said:

OR that new solenoid you installed is not working. Does it click when key is turned on? Don't know why you would replace that unless known bad.

Walt Conner

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The solenoid was the last thing i replaced because nothing else had worked. Can't tell if it's clicking until I get someone over hear to turn the key for me.

Scrubcadet10 said:

spray some carburetor cleaner through the throat or "venturi", and see if it fires, if it does fuel is not getting THROUGH your carburetor. probably a small clogged hole in a jet or float level set improperly....
whats the engine model number?

Click to expand...

It didn't respond to the carburetor cleaner.

Does it run momentarily with starting fluid?

No, won't fire at all.

I'm looking into checking the flywheel key. One video says to remove a plug, thread in some rope which will jam the piston, allowing resistance to twist the nut off the crankshaft....is that OK to do?

I used an impact wrench. Flywheel key looks intact. I was really hoping it wouldn't be.

Try spraying some down the plug hole, and reinstall the plug, if it fires it's probably a valve/timing or spark issue. (Let a expert confirm that)

Millstone Farm said:

No, won't fire at all.

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If it won't fire normally, backfire through the carb or backfire through the muffler, then I doubt you have a good spark. Bad timing won't stop ignition; bad timing only fires the fuel mixture at the wrong time.

Go-Rebels said:

If it won't fire normally, backfire through the carb or backfire through the muffler, then I doubt you have a good spark. Bad timing won't stop ignition; bad timing only fires the fuel mixture at the wrong time.

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Yeah, doesn't add up, has spark, won't fire on starting fluid, flywheel key OK. Check under valve cover. Hard to believe something out of place on both, this engine will run on one cylinder.

Walt Conner

Ok, if it's the spark, what will fix that? New coil? Magneto?

Millstone Farm said:

Ok, if it's the spark, what will fix that? New coil? Magneto?

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On these engines when ignition spark is suspect the first thing to do is disconnect the "Kill wire" from the BASE of each ignition coil then see if engine will start. The Kill Wire Harness contains diodes which sometimes fail causing all kinds of problems. As I said before, these engines will run on one cylinder and not likely both coils will fail at once and these coils are very reliable.

Walt Conner

Can you measure the resistance of each coil?

Millstone Farm said:

I filled the tank with gasoline and tried to crank it; nothing. So I figured maybe trash was in the carburetor. Tore into the breather and discovered the filter had been leaking and the carburetor was full of dirt. I removed the carburetor, cleaned it meticulously with carb cleaner, toothbrush, air and rebuilt it with new gaskets, float valve and a new solenoid. Cleaned out the breather housing and the intake manifold, installed new fuel lines, new filter, new fuel pump, new plugs and checked them for spark. The plugs are sparking and the clean carburetor is getting fresh gas but she still won't start.

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How do you know this?

Go-Rebels said:

Can you measure the resistance of each coil?

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As I said before, these coils are very reliable and both are not going to fail at once and it will start and run quite happily on one cylinder.

Walt Conner

Each coil fires every revolution so it is difficult to understand that you are not getting at least a pop or backfire with some starting fluid directly down the plug hole.
So some fundamential questions
1) are the pistons going up & down in the bore
2) are the rockers going up & down as you turn the engine over.
The only thing I can think of is the key has sheared and the flywheel is spinning on the crankshaft or the camshaft has sheared and the valves are not moving.

As Walt has already mentioned , these engines run happily on one cylinder & I regularly have people complain that they thought the mower was underpowered from new to find it has only been running on one cylinder from new.

Pulled the valve covers and found it. One pushrod on the right head is severely bent and one pushrod on the left head was detached. So I ordered a whole new set of pushrods and gaskets. But what could cause a pushrod to fail on both cylinders at the same time?

Ok, the valve with the bent pushrod is stuck. Either it's bent or the guide is warped or something. Engine probably overheated. I found a new head. I think I'll just replace both heads while I'm at it.

I'm not sure about this engine, but you might have a bushing in the guide you can replace. I do not know if it is a fix though.
experts?

They probably did not both go at once.
As Walt has already mentioned these engines happily run on one cylinder.

A pushrod bends because the cam is pushing it up but the valve can not go down

Only 2 things cause this to happen

Valve is stuck or piston is hitting the valve.

You should do a little investiating
Is the blower housing in good condition & all there ?
Is the fan working
Is the flywheel key intact
are the fins clean

Thanks
The parts manual is not showing one, but that may not mean anything. I'll pull the #1 head tomorrow and take a look at it. Could be that the valve is just bent.

bertsmobile1 said:

They probably did not both go at once.
As Walt has already mentioned these engines happily run on one cylinder. That's what I was thinking too. because the engine seemed to have lost alot of power, mowing in thicker grass, just before it shut down.

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A pushrod bends because the cam is pushing it up but the valve can not go down Yes

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Only 2 things cause this to happen

Valve is stuck or piston is hitting the valve. The valve is stuck. Had to bump it in with a hammer to get it to slide back in, and once down, the spring is unable to pull it back up..

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You should do a little investiating
Is the blower housing in good condition & all there ? Yes
Is the fan working Yes
Is the flywheel key intact Yes
are the fins clean could use some cleaning but is not clogged or overly dirty.

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Thanks

Sounds like new head time.
Unless you are really stretched for cash or have a philosiphical problem buying new parts it is not worth the time & effort mucking around .
Just bear in mind something caused that valve to bend and that is generally hitting the piston.

bertsmobile1 said:

Sounds like new head time.
Unless you are really stretched for cash or have a philosiphical problem buying new parts it is not worth the time & effort mucking around .
Just bear in mind something caused that valve to bend and that is generally hitting the piston.

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What would cause the valve to hit the piston?

Con rod coming loose
When the head is off run the piston to TDC then just past till the piston just starts to move down
Press down on the piston
If it moves just the slightest the rod is loose
Or put you finger on the piston and put light pressure on it .
Rotate the engine a few cycles with your other hand
If you feel a "click" a TDC or BDC then the rod is loose.

Ok will do. Both heads threw a connecting rod; one was bent, the other was intact. Does that mean both con rods could be loose?

Both heads threw a connecting rod?

Connect rod connects to the crankshaft, and turns the vertical motion of the piston into rotating motion of the crank, if it breaks, there is nothing to stop the upwards movement of the piston, until it hits a valve or the head.
What broke in your heads were the push Rods.

Scrubcadet10 said:

I'm not sure about this engine, but you might have a bushing in the guide you can replace. I do not know if it is a fix though.
experts?

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No replacement valve guide available for that engine. Generally do not find valve guides worn out on these engines. I have a positive fix for slipped valve guide.

Walt Conner
wconner5 at frontier dot com