Engine was running just fine until it just stopped. when I crank it it would fire up and seem to run for less than a second Replaced carb, spark plug, fuel filter, took the gas tank out and checked for any obstructions and set the air gap. Still when I crank it it will fire and run for a few revs. Squirted fuel directly into the air intake and nothing happens. If I completely seal the air intake it will kick off for just a moment. What am I missing?
Thanks,
John
Welcome John
It wold of immense help if we knew which one of the 11,542 different model B &S engines you have problems with.
Even more beneficial would be knowing what it is fitted to.
Engine is 22HP Briggs &Stratton, Platinum Series, single cylinder in a Craftsman Lawn Tractor. Information on the valve cover is:
Model Type. Code
331877 2371 G5 111031ZD
You are missing a big air leak between the carb & the cylinders
Get a can of carb cleaner & spray a SMALL amount into each plug hole & crank the engine
If it fires & runs a few revs , do the same down the carb throat
If you get no joy from the second test & it fired on the first test then look at the manifold and the pushrods.
#5
Fish
Take the top cover off and inspect as suggested.
Just for fun, unplug the kill wire to the coil, then try to start it. Also check the wiring @ kill wire and fuel solenoid.
Valve cover removed, pushrod are still in place and appear to have full range when I turn the flywheel. Squirted fuel in the spark plug hole, hooked everything back up and she did fire but I’m getting flames coming out of the air intake. Have I sheared the key on the flywheel? That’s the next thing I’m going to check.
john
Key has sheared just a tad which is more than likely throwing the timing off. I’m not seeing any thread holes in the flywheel to attach a puller so I can remove the flywheel and replace the key. Is there some special way to pull the flywheel?
John
Either the key is sheared or the valve is remaining open when the engine fires
Both valves are he same length so should have been at identical heights when both are closed
The flywheel is on a taper so needs to be jolted off.
Most use a pry bar under the flywheel anywhere but under the magnets then while prying the flywheel up strike the loosened flywheel bolt.
I use an air hammer and some timber wedges now days
\Otherwise any 3 jaw puller will substitute for the pry bar bu you sill have to smack it with the hammer to break the taper,
There are holes in the flywheel for the cheap B&S puller or you can easily make your own puller. Use self tapping bolts in the untapped holes or simply tap the holes. I have pictures of B&S blocks with holes punched in the top of block using above pry bar procedure.
Walt Conner
#11
StarTech
Also due problems the flywheel/crankshaft design of OP's 331877-2371-G5 111031ZD engine PN 796335 steel key needs to be installed and the retaining bolt or nut torqued to 110 ft-lbs. This is per Briggs APSI 82. Briggs later change the flywheel and crankshaft on July 1, 2012 and started using a double length steel key.(so reference in APSI 89).
