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It has been a tough year with my Dixie Blackhawk. I have previously written about my Dixie when the accelerator cable locked up due to heat. I appreciate the comments and since repairing have not had any issues. Just recently I was out mulching leaves and lost the drive on my chopper. After towing it out of the back and into my garage I noticed the spring on the transmission belt idler broke.

Here are the details of my mower:

• 2017 Dixie Chopper Blackhawk HP 2560 KOE purchased in 2018
• Kohler EZT 740 S/N: 4702504833

The spring broke off the bolt attached to the mower. It is still attached to the transmission belt idler arm. The idler arm is without tension and the belt is still intact, not broken. I lost power due to the loss of tension. I called my dealer, but unfortunately, like so many repair shops lately, they have no idea when they can pick it up or repair it. I need to do this myself. Can anyone provide me any tips to how to remove the spring from the transmission idler arm and then replace it given the tension it has from the idler arm to the bolt? I cannot figure out how to reattach the spring to the bolt as it appears to have substantial tension. I looked at a manual (Dixie) online and it was of no assistance.

Thanks, againIts

Unfortunatley since the Dixie band got tossed around the industry from pillar to post the service information became substantially poorer & harder to access if you are not an agent .
From the very low resolution fuzzy image on the web page I would suggest fixing the new one to the bolt end first.
Then get a spring hook through the other end and stretch the spring over the pin on the tension arm .
On some ZTRs I find it easer to fit them without the belt on so you can push the tension arm to a position where there is no tension on the spring then put a hook ( ratchet tie downs work well ) or long wrench on the pulley end ( or nut ) to stretch the spring far enough to slip the belt back over the pulley.
Dixie looks like it would be better done this way

Like Bert said take the belt off the large pulley and hook the spring. I take a rope and put a loop in one end and run it around the post on the idler arm that the spring hooks to and goes up through the frame. Run the loose end of rope the through the slots in the back of the frame back through the loop and pull it to the back of the mower and tie it off. Work the belt back on the pulley. You can pull down on the rope to put more tension on the spring and move the pulley to give you more room to put the belt on. By the way if you have a black plastic pulley they make a kit to replace it with a metal one. Part no. 300868DC. It is not if it is going to fail it is when. I have seen them with as little as 12 hours and the bearing was making a noise. They can lock up and wear the pulley and ruin the belt. Hope I explained where you know what I am talking about. I check every one that comes in the shop and replace them if they are plastic.

Or you can use a racket tie down strap so it gives you a little extra leverage.

bertsmobile1 said:

Unfortunatley since the Dixie band got tossed around the industry from pillar to post the service information became substantially poorer & harder to access if you are not an agent .
From the very low resolution fuzzy image on the web page I would suggest fixing the new one to the bolt end first.
Then get a spring hook through the other end and stretch the spring over the pin on the tension arm .
On some ZTRs I find it easer to fit them without the belt on so you can push the tension arm to a position where there is no tension on the spring then put a hook ( ratchet tie downs work well ) or long wrench on the pulley end ( or nut ) to stretch the spring far enough to slip the belt back over the pulley.
Dixie looks like it would be better done this way

Click to expand...

Thank you bertsmobile1. I appreciate the information and hints. I have ordered the part, hope to have it here next week.

hlw49 said:

Like Bert said take the belt off the large pulley and hook the spring. I take a rope and put a loop in one end and run it around the post on the idler arm that the spring hooks to and goes up through the frame. Run the loose end of rope the through the slots in the back of the frame back through the loop and pull it to the back of the mower and tie it off. Work the belt back on the pulley. You can pull down on the rope to put more tension on the spring and move the pulley to give you more room to put the belt on. By the way if you have a black plastic pulley they make a kit to replace it with a metal one. Part no. 300868DC. It is not if it is going to fail it is when. I have seen them with as little as 12 hours and the bearing was making a noise. They can lock up and wear the pulley and ruin the belt. Hope I explained where you know what I am talking about. I check every one that comes in the shop and replace them if they are plastic.

Click to expand...

Thank you! Under warranty, I had the plastic pulley replaced. I thanked it lasted through the first year. I appreciate the hints and the information! I have the part ordered and hopefully will try this next week.

StarTech said:

Or you can use a racket tie down strap so it gives you a little extra leverage.

Click to expand...

Thank you!!

I have one more question. What is the best way to jack up the front and rear of the dixie. I cannot get at this without lifting the rear and always wondered how do you lift the front. I looked on line and they suggested lifting the front from the cutting deck??!! Is the doable? Looking at the rear, not sure where to put the jack so that I can place jack stands under. Thanks again.

I have a yard crane so can lift the mower up vertical if I want
However when I am doing multiple mowers simultaneously I do use jacks
For ZTR's drive it backwards just a little to turn the caster wheels into the reverse position ( or turn them by hand )
place some car or truck ramps behind the read wheels & drive the mower up onto them.
That should be all you need to do & will leave the mower very stable
IF you really need to the front can be lifted by hand and jack stands placed under the frame front cross member , not the caster wheels but you will need truck or SUV ones as most car ones are too short .
When you have finished remember to turn the front casters to the forward position before you drive / push it off the ramps or you risk it running off the side of one of the ramps .

Oh lucky me we have a heftee 2000 mower lift. Sure makes it nice to work on the mowers. We even have jacks that fit the lift arms to raise the mower off the lift pads so you can take the wheels off while on the lift. We could really use a bigger one the newer mowers are bigger and heavier. Have to put a jack under the left rear side of the frame for the 72 inch cut mowers to be safe.

Every one of us have different amount equipment to use. Here I have a couple low profile jacks for lifting the rear and lift that uses the wheels for front end. Seldom need to lift the whole mower but when I do I use jack stands on the rear for safety; even when I have just the rear up I use them. Better safe then be found laying under the equipment days later.

hlw49 said:

Oh lucky me we have a heftee 2000 mower lift. Sure makes it nice to work on the mowers. We even have jacks that fit the lift arms to raise the mower off the lift pads so you can take the wheels off while on the lift. We could really use a bigger one the newer mowers are bigger and heavier. Have to put a jack under the left rear side of the frame for the 72 inch cut mowers to be safe.

Click to expand...

i have heard bad things about those lifts

Thanks everyone for the assistance and tips!!!! I actually did not have to lift the Dixie and was able to complete everything successfully. I appreciate all the assistance. It is back up and running.

HLW49, lol, I am very jealous of your Heftee 2000 and never realized equipment like this was manufactured.

bertsmobile1 said:

I have a yard crane so can lift the mower up vertical if I want
However when I am doing multiple mowers simultaneously I do use jacks
For ZTR's drive it backwards just a little to turn the caster wheels into the reverse position ( or turn them by hand )
place some car or truck ramps behind the read wheels & drive the mower up onto them.
That should be all you need to do & will leave the mower very stable
IF you really need to the front can be lifted by hand and jack stands placed under the frame front cross member , not the caster wheels but you will need truck or SUV ones as most car ones are too short .
When you have finished remember to turn the front casters to the forward position before you drive / push it off the ramps or you risk it running off the side of one of the ramps .

Click to expand...

Thank you for the information and quick reply!

StarTech said:

Every one of us have different amount equipment to use. Here I have a couple low profile jacks for lifting the rear and lift that uses the wheels for front end. Seldom need to lift the whole mower but when I do I use jack stands on the rear for safety; even when I have just the rear up I use them. Better safe then be found laying under the equipment days later.

Click to expand...

Thank you for the information and comments. I agree totally I never get under any vehicle without some type of back up support (jack stands, etc.)

DcSux66 said:

i have heard bad things about those lifts

Click to expand...

Been using for 15 years no problems.

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