I am a former ASE-certified auto mechanic. I know my way around engines, but this one has me stumped. The lawnmower stopped while mowing the lawn.
This is what I have done or checked:
I have gas, fuel pump works, carburetor solenoid works, air filter, and gas filters are clean, installed a new battery, a new EUC, both sparkplugs fire and shorting the seat safety device didn't work. The plugs are dry, but the machine will start with starting fluid. Disconnecting the black kill wire didn't work. All fuses work.
In the past, I have jump-started the lawnmower and recently discovered that will blow the ECU, so I replaced it. Is there anything else jump-starting the lawnmower will kill?
One clue there. She is thirsty. Carb cleaning and or fuel system cleaning time.
Dump and flush out the fuel tank/s. You want them spotless inside. Blow out with compressed air. Install ALL new fuel lines.
How do you know the carb solenoid works? Do you have a clear float bowl on it? Get a small bolt the same thread pitch as the solenoid. Use it for testing to 100% rule out the solenoid.
Pull the kill wire/s off the ignition coils. Should run till you drain the tanks out. That is unless you have other issues.
You need good fuel flow AT the carb inlet. Drain into a glass jar so you can watch it. Or a mower can and empty the tank dry. Should drain out freely. Or if it stops you need to clean the tank out.
Don't buy a new carb off amazon or epray.
Start with the basics. Compression, air and fuel then spark. Easy right?
I think the solenoid works because I hear it clicking when I turn the ignition on. However, I know a clicking solenoid doesn't mean it is opening the valve.
How do you test the carb solenoid? I guess the small bolt replaces the valve the solenoid pulls down and you can see the bolt move, correct? I guess that can be done on the machine and will try it now.
Well, now I am not so sure the carb solenoid is working. I thought I heard it click but don't hear it now. Didn't try the bolt trick until I figured out how to remove the solenoid.
OK, I removed the solenoid, cut the plunger off, reinstalled it, and still no start. I think the plunger is held in the up position with a spring. Energize the solenoid, and it pulls the plunger down to let fuel flow, correct? If there is no plunger, fuel should flow.
Pull the rocker covers and check the pushrods are in place and the valves are working.
I like to pull the carbs off leaving the fuel lines inplace turn them sideways and blow air through them to make sure the carb is actually aspirating fuel
Now I am confused here.
In your original post you mantioned an ECU wich is only found on fuel injected motors and in this post you are talking about carbs
What do you have ?
Finally JD put out a very comprehensive service manual for your mower which includes over 200 pages on the engines alone and around the same on the mowers electronics .
Hi, Yes, the lawn tractor has a carburetor and an ECU (Electronic Control Unit) p/n AM141075. I bought it new from a JD dealer for $110.
I just bought a carb solenoid and two coils from Amazon. The solenoid prevents backfires but costs $200 from JD. The spark tester shows an orange/red spark, a low-power indicator, so I bought two coils. The JD coils are $124 each, but the aftermarket coils were $24.
I agree; OEM parts have the same quality as the mower and are the first choice. However, when JD charges $200 for a carb solenoid, and Amazon has them for $24, I'll go with the $24 variety every time. At 12% of OEM, I can buy a lot of solenoids.
I think bert and slomo have it summed up rrally, check valves/pushrods and make sure it's actually getting fuel to the engine and not just to the carb.
It certainly sounds like it need fuel in the engine if it runs on starting fluid, which would also point towards the valves working correctly (but bear in mind that theres no guarantee they're working well enough to run on straight fuel just from this).
If it was me, I'd start by checking fuel is getting to the carb, then check valve clearances (to make sure they're opening enough to allow enough fuel in to the engine to run).
If this all checks out, you need to check if fuel is getting to the engine (which sounds like the problem). This could be as simple as a carb clean/rebuild, but you'd need to make sure it's nothing above before wasting your time rebuilding the carb for no reason )especially if the mower isn't very old).
#12
StarTech
Why would you buy Kawasaki engine parts from JD. They are more reasonable when you go through a Kawasaki dealer or an independent shop that has access to the Kawasaki parts. Those ignition coils are only $70 list from Kawasaki. And of course my cost is only $55.
I agree; OEM parts have the same quality as the mower and are the first choice. However, when JD charges $200 for a carb solenoid, and Amazon has them for $24, I'll go with the $24 variety every time. At 12% of OEM, I can buy a lot of solenoids.
The reason why the planet is going to hell in a handbasket is because of the wasteful nature of our existance.
So if you want your grandchildren to be able to survive then you need to change your mindset
Yes you can affod to buy 50 solenoids till you get one that works but the planet can not
The reason why the planet is going to hell in a handbasket is because of the wasteful nature of our existance.
So if you want your grandchildren to be able to survive then you need to change your mindset
Yes you can affod to buy 50 solenoids till you get one that works but the planet can not
Very true. Many after market parts are just that, junk. I just went through 3 Oregon fuel pumps because they fail within minutes of being installed. I also had to replace an Oregon ignition switch I installed last summer because they used the cheapest materials and it had rusted up. I went back with a regular OEM Indak switch from Stens. Yes I paid more for it but I will not need to change it for a long time or until the mower shorts out another PTO clutch.
Now when you are in the business of repairs you do learn (or should learn) that many parts are used on different OEM equipment are the same ones with just different PNs and pricing. This all part of procurement management of parts. When with good procurement practices and good cross referencing of part numbers the repair shop as save both themselves and the customers by lowering the overall costs of parts.
Agreed, some OEM parts are the same with different part numbers. Years ago, my brother had a Harley, and plugs were $6. He did a cross-reference check and discovered Harley used the same plug that fits a Chevy 6. The kicker is the Chevy plug was $1.50!
This may be totally off, but my x320 wouldn't start, but would run on carb spray. I checked the manual, and apparently there is some kind of emission control garbage on the engine. The fuel cap has to be turned until it "clicks", (I turned mine until I heard 2 clicks) Viola! It started and ran fine . Like I said, might not be the problem, but costs nothing to try! Good Luck!
Hi, not sure if you've solved this yet, but I had a similar experience where my Cub Cadet (kohler motor) would die right around half a tank. I replaced coil, fuel pump, carburetor (motor had 800 hours on it, so why not!) Still same issue. I finally pulled the back end of mower apart to get to fuel tank. Turns out the barb coming off the tank for the fuel line had shrunk to next to nothing! I reemed it out, put ti back together, and all good!
