Export thread

I have a 2005 LT2400-50D with ignition problems. Ignition will not respond. I have ran a wire from the blue wire on the ignition switch to the positive on the battery and the starter turns over. However, it will not stay running. There must be a short somewhere in the ignition switch, but I don't know how to isolate it. If someone could give me step by step instructions on how to do this I sure would appreciated it. You guys have helped me before and I am so thankful. Thanks, Larry.

Give this troubleshooting procedure a try and let us know the results.

[FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot][/FONT]
[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot]Electrical* problems can be very easy or very difficult, depending on four things.[/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot]1. * How well you understand basic electricity.[/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot]2. *What tools you have and know how to use.[/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot]3. *How well you follow directions.[/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot]4. *You don't overlook or assume anything and verify everything.[/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot][/FONT]
[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot]Remember we cannot see what you are doing. *You are our eyes, ears and fingers in solving this problem. *You must be as accurate as you can when you report back. *The two basic tools we will ask you to use are a test light and a multi-meter. *If you have an assistant when going through these tests it would be very helpful. *These steps work the best when done in order, so please don't jump around. *Now let's solve this problem.[/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot][/FONT]
[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot]First, check the fuse(s), check battery connections for corrosion (clean if necessary) and *voltage - above 12.5 volts should be good.*[/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot][/FONT]
[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot]Second, check for power from the battery to one of the large terminals on the solenoid. *One of the wires is connected directly to the battery and has power all the time so one of the large terminals should light a test light or show 12 volts on a meter at all times.*[/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot][/FONT]
[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot]Third, *check for power at the small terminal of the solenoid while depressing the clutch/brake pedal and holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch). If your solenoid is a four wire solenoid, check both small wire terminals as one is ground and the other is power from the ignition switch. *If your solenoid is a three wire solenoid, make sure the solenoid body is not corroded where it bolts to the chassis of the mower as this is your ground path back to the battery. *If in doubt, remove the solenoid and clean the mounting area down to bare metal. *If there is no power to the small terminal then your problem is most likely a safety switch, ignition switch or in the wiring.*[/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot][/FONT]
[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot]Fourth, check for power on the other large terminal of the solenoid while holding the key in the start position q(you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch).*[/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot][/FONT]
[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot]Fifth, check for power at the starter while holding the key in the start position (assistant again).*[/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot][/FONT]
[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot]Sixth, check your ground circuit back to the battery.[/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot][/FONT]
[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot]After you have gone through each of the above steps, let us know what happened when you did each step. *At that point we will have great info to tell you how to proceed. *Remember you are our eyes, ears, and fingers, so please be as accurate as possible.[/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot][/FONT]
[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot]Be as specific as possible with voltage readings as this will help diagnose your problem quicker. *If you do not know how to perform the above checks, just ask and I will try to guide you through it. *Youtube also has some videos and as you know a picture is worth a thousand words.[/FONT][/FONT]

Thanks so much Rivets, it will be a day or two before I can go through the steps you have outlined. I'm 75 years old and do things a little slower than I did years ago.

But, I want to thank you very much for your help. I will follow the directions to the letter and report back to you what I find.

Larry

I’m just behind you so take your time. Starting to get busy here, so it may take a day or two to reply.

Thanks, Rivet.

1.) The fuses all check out good. Continuity in all fuses.
2.) Battery test at 12.7 volts.
3.) 12.7 volts from positive on battery to large terminal on solenoid.

Rivet, I have had some medical problem and may take me another day or two to continue the check list.
Thanks you for understanding.

Larry

Put up some engine model numbers, so we know what you have.

If you are priming the carb to get it to "fire", most modern engines have a fuel shutoff solenoid on the carb.

You need to give the engine info, and more explicit detail of what you have tried, and what you are doing.
Pics always help too.

No need to try to hurry, with electrical problems it will only get you in trouble. I’ll get back to you when I get a chance. Forgot to mention, I hope you removed the wire you talked about in your first post. Would like the tests done with original wiring setup. Hope the medical issues clear up.

Hello Revits, I have had some medical problems and just now got back to my electrical problems. Below is the sequence you gave me to check and the results of each.

1.) Fuses all good: checked continuity
2.) Battery connections all good; checked at 2.7 v
3.) Check from battery to large terminal on solenoid: checked good 12.6 v
4.) Solenoid body not corroded.
5.) Checked small blue wire to solenoid: failed no voltage
6.) Checked power on large terminal of solenoid: checked good 12.55 v
7.) Checked power to solenoid while holding key in start position: failed on power
8.) Ground circuit back to battery: good

My ignition switch has 3 positions. Off, On (with red light) and Start. In the "On" position the red light fails to come on. I have installed a brand new ignition switch and problem is still there.

I can jump from the positive terminal of the battery to the small blue terminal on the solenoid and the engine turns over, but will not stay running.

Thanks so much for the help, Rivets. Larry

Having no voltage in my step three means either you are getting no voltage to the key switch, key switch is bad, or you have no voltage going from the key switch, through the safety switches to the solenoid. Here is a site which will get you a wiring diagram in the parts manual. You will have to trace the voltage from the large terminal on the solenoid, to the switch, (B terminal) through the switch (S terminal), through the safety switches, to the small terminal on the solenoid. https://www.dixiechopper.com/mobile/4/manuals&cat1=10&cat2=275. I know this is not an easy testing procedure, but needs to be done. If you have more questions please post back.

Thanks so much Rivets and thanks for posting the link to the manual. This is where my knowledge is a little lacking.

Although I still have my manual and have found the ignition switch on the diagram, I really don't know how to perform the test.

Do I put positive lead of my voltage meter on the big terminal of the solenoid and the negative lead of my voltage meter on each wire coming off the ignition switch until I find one that has no voltage? I'm guessing when I do find one with no voltage that I have to trace it to find a break in the wire and repair or replace it. Is that true? Also, not sure what the B terminal and S terminal are.

You don't know how much I appreciate you taking the time to educate me. I really do enjoy working on things and the sense of accomplishment one gets when the job is done.

Thanks, Larry

Pull the plug from the back then remove the switch
On the back of the switch are tiny letters
B=Battery
S = starter
M = magneto
G = ground
L = Lights
A = Alternator

Thanks, bertsmobile1.

I found the small letters on the back of the new ignition switch I bought.

I'm still not clear on how to do what Rivets told me. "You will have to trace the voltage from the large terminal on the solenoid, to the switch, (B terminal) through the switch (S terminal), through the safety switches, to the small terminal on the solenoid."

Where do I put the voltage meter leads to check this path out? :confused2:

Go to this web site and search for switch #9655. I know it says John Deere, but it is the same as your switch, which is part number 500017. You will see which terminals I am talking about. There are two ways I do the tests I described, using either a VOM or a test light. Connect the negative lead of the VOM or test light lead to a good ground. The positive lead or test light probe will be used to trace electrical flow. A good jump lead and an assistant will also be an asset to your project. Hope this help, or post back and I’ll try to describe it another way.https://www.rotarycorp.com/

I took the plug off of the ignition switch and found the location for the terminals. I connected a good negative lead on VOM and inserted the positive lead of the VOM to each terminal and there is no electrical flow.

You will need to trace the plug wire, which connects to the B terminal of the switch, back to the battery. It is usually connected to the large terminal on the solenoid which goes back to the battery. Most times this small wire has a fuse in it, which may be bad.

I originally told you the fuses were good, not so. I had bought a new fuse for the blue (battery wire) and thought it was good. I tested it again with continuity on my VOM and there is no continuity.

Should I have disconnected the battery when I installed the fuse originally? I may have ruined the new fuse.

Where can I get a replacement fuse on the internet? I bought the fuse when I bought the new ignition switch at my dealer and he is about 35 miles from me.

Take the fuse to any auto parts store, possibly auto repair shop, implement dealer, and even many BIG BOX outlets. Should be a common fuse, but take it along to match it up. There should be no reason to disconnect the battery, just turn off the key. If it immediately blows you now have a short to find, might want to buy an extra or two.

Thanks so much Rivets.

I'll post back if there is a problem. I live out in the country and may have to wait until I can make the trip to the next little town over to see the dealer.

This doesn't look like a fuse I have every seen at a parts store.

You are correct and I’m wrong about where to get one. I’ve never seen a fuse like that, must be a Dixie proprietary part. Sorry about the last post.

Thanks Rivets, you have been a great help and have taught me a lot about how to check a circuit. For that I am very grateful.

I have called my dealer in the next town over and he said he will mail me the new fuse.

Folks like me are very lucky we have men like you that are willing to go out of their way to help others. It means a lot to me.

I will let you know how it goes. :thumbsup:

Larry

Your welcome. There are about a dozen good techs on this forum who are willing to help when individuals are willing to listen to suggestions. We enjoy hearing feedback, because most of us are even learning, as we hear different problems. The day we stop learning is the day we should leave the forum.

larrye44 said:

Thanks so much Rivets.

I'll post back if there is a problem. I live out in the country and may have to wait until I can make the trip to the next little town over to see the dealer.

This doesn't look like a fuse I have every seen at a parts store.

View attachment 43577

Click to expand...

That I think will be a diode and not a fuse.
All the Dixies I have played with used standard blade fuses

Retest it by setting the meter to OHMS then swap the meter terminals.
If it is a diode it should read open circuit one way and closed circuit the other
FWIW diodes tend to be on a green wire and fuses on black ones.

Bert is correct, that is a diode. You need to check more to to find the fuse.

Thanks so much to both of you, Bert and Rivets. I did find out it is a diode. I sent a picture of it to my dealer and he cleared it up for me.

I did continue to check and believe it or not it was just a 20 amp mini fuse in the battery circuit to the ignition switch.

The old Dixie Chopper is up and running again and I mowed the lawn this weekend. I could not have done it without you guys.

I have learned a lot and what a great sense of accomplishment to be out in my yard mowing again.

Thanks for helping and being a part of a great forum, Larry

Good to hear so now go mow.

Now that you’ve got it running, when can you come and do my yard? To busy to get to it.