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Hey guys,

New here on the forums. I'm working on a whipper snipper Victa Tornado Plus (2 stroke engine). My dad purchased it brand new and only started it once and has had it in storage for a couple years now. It had stale petrol which i had to drain out and refill. I checked to make sure that the spark gets going and it does so that's good. However when pulling on the cord to start petrol sprays out the exhaust. I've also checked the air filter and it keeps getting wet with petrol. Can't get this thing to start.
Any help here would be much appreciated!

Thanks in advance!
Jake

Take the muffler off and see what happens.
Mud wasps / native bees etc seem to love to build nests in the exhaust.
These are just some cheap Chinese junk that is imported and badged Victa so there is no service information available for it.

Took the muffler off and same thing. It spitting out drops of petrol upon pulling on the starter cord.
No sign of wasp/bee nests in there either.

Does it have a small cube type carburetor, or a larger one with float bowl etc.?

Scrubcadet10 said:

Does it have a small cube type carburetor, or a larger one with float bowl etc.?

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I think its the small cube type. Can you make out from the pics?

I think i found the correct parts list for your trimmer, i wonder if there is a problem with the metering side of the carb making it flood out. I'm not much of a 2 stroke aficionado

Scrubcadet10 said:

I think i found the correct parts list for your trimmer, i wonder if there is a problem with the metering side of the carb making it flood out. I'm not much of a 2 stroke aficionado

https://www.allmowerspares.com.au/pub/media/wysiwyg/080715-4325-Victa-Trimmer-Eng-Supplement.pdf

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That's the one, you've found it thanks. I'm pretty new to this but good with my hands. Might be worth taking the carb apart you think?

I rarely take apart a cube carb, unless I have the necessary rebuild kit on hand. I generally just replace them.

Scrubcadet10 said:

I rarely take apart a cube carb, unless I have the necessary rebuild kit on hand. I generally just replace them.

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Hmm I see. Might be cheap enough to replace. Can I ask something - I just realized that I haven't done the 2 stroke ratio oil/petrol mix thing. Could that be why the carb/air filter is leaky?

Both Allmower & Outdoor king list is as 2 to 3 days for despatch
That means that neither of them have it in stock & are selling it on the hope that Briggs & Stratton actually have one in their ramshakle totally disorganised under stocked warehouse so don't hold your breath. Most parts out of it are around 3 months delivery if ever .
Allmower are almost as useless as Briggs & Stratton and are staffed by computer jockey children who would be had put to know the difference between a mower & a blower , so you would be well advised to ring Bruce at Outdoor King and get him to check availability before you fork out the $ 80 for the carb .
If the number is correct then it is a rebadged MTD trimer, which considering Briggs & MTD are at each others throats right now is highly unlikely unless they are both buying their trimers from the same factory in China by accident.
Not putting premix into the carb will have next to no effect on starting .
And you are lucky that it did not start because that would have destroyed the engine in about 5 minutes.

If the trimmer was left full of fuel over a long period of time then the carb will usually be gummed up.
This might be causing the metering valve to remain open which would tend to flood the engine
It also could have gummed up the check valve in the carb which rarely come good & can not be replaced.
This is a throw away trimer brought in to sell at Bunnings very cheap .
The last one I did have a Ruxing carb on it and Ruxing have no parts suppliers in OZ so for the domestic customer it is a new carb or nothing .
Walbro USA have a good selectio or rebuild manuals and some videos if you want to learn.
Basically all cube carbs are the same and there are only 2 types.
Butterfly & rotary valve.
IF you want to try your luck the go ahead, you can not make things any worse, but remember that the holes in these carbs a tiny so it is CLEAN.
Work on some clean paper towel on a clean table in a clean room.
DO not try & spray any carb cleaner through the carb as they all attack the rubber in the check valves unless you are using the $ 30 can Walbro carb spray.
I use plain degreaser from Super Cheap ( & nasty ) car parts to spray through them

Hmmm the MTD TR00179A appears to cross to the Briggs PN 706298 which is the Ruixing H119-2C.

It is a dirt cheap carburetor.

Sounds about right.
Nice to have access to dealer networks.
If you buy he carb from Aliexpress , take the China post option as most of the freight companies toss on an extra charge for "customs" which is a lie .
Most of what I have bought was bulk feighted to a Botany address then despatched via AusPost and takes 2 to 4 weeks to arrive .

Thankyou Bertsmobile1 for the reply and StarTeck for the link for a replacement carb.

I took the carburetor out this morning carefully dismantling it piece by piece including the metering diaphragm. It was soaked with petrol right through (I'm not sure it you can tell with the pics).
If I decide to keep this trimmer it might be worth just replacing the whole carb since its very cheap however how bad enough does the diaphragm have to be for it to not function properly? It does feel a bit on the flimsy side. Does it have to feel nice and crisp when gently pressed? I did gently soak up the petrol from it however would that be good enough to fix back and test or not?

I will look closely again to see if i can find any other parts which seem to be blocked up or filled with dirt.

Thanks again
Jake

metering diaphrage should be dry on the cover side & wet on the needle side, be soft springy and have no holes.
The needle should withstand around 15 PSI before opening ( called the pop off pressure ) .
Go to the Walbro site and download the manual for rotary valve carburettors

bertsmobile1 said:

metering diaphrage should be dry on the cover side & wet on the needle side, be soft springy and have no holes.
The needle should withstand around 15 PSI before opening ( called the pop off pressure ) .
Go to the Walbro site and download the manual for rotary valve carburettors

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Ok the diaphragm was soaked right through, no holes. I wiped it down but wasn't confident enough putting it back together just to test incase it didn't start again.
Ordered a new carburetor. Once it arrives will put it all back together with the right fuel ratio and hopefully she starts.

Was there anything else i could clean and check while i have the unit open?

Thanks

Hey everyone, so I've made some progress with this carb restoration project. I've fitted in the new carb successfully but have forgotten which is one is the fuel intake and the return? I've also pulled the fuel tank apart and cleaned it up as there was lots of residue inside. The fuel filter completely corroded and also needed to be replaced which fortunately was provided with the carburetor kit that I purchased.

Am I right in saying that the red one is the fuel intake and the green one the return? Don't want to get this one wrong.

Thanks for any help
Jake

Damp your finger and place it over the end of the spiggots
You should be able to feel the air over your finger.
If you block one off and the bulb does not return that is the inlet
If you block one off any you can not push the bulb in , that is the outlet .
Usually the inlet is thinner than the outlet
Usually the inlet is the furthers away from the bulb because the fuel is drawn into the carb and then expelled from the bulb.

Come on it is a Walbro WYJ style cube so someone should be able answer without (edited out). It is obvious for anyone that has work with these carbs.

But Bert's instructs will work too.

StarTech said:

Come on it is a Walbro WYJ style cube so someone should be able answer without (edited out). It is obvious for anyone that has work with these carbs.

But Bert's instructs will work too.

Click to expand...

I think the phrase is :-
Teach a man to fish

But most are too lazy to learn and somebody else can do it for them.

Thankyou all for the help. I pressed the bulb and one of them pushed air out indicating the outake (the one marked green in my picture attached). The other one would create some slight suction when bulb was released which indicated the intake. So I think I've got this right!

Here's a picture of the corroded fuel filter

Replaced carb and fuel filter with fuel lines, tested spark, checked and petrol getting into the primer bulb no probs. Ofcourse did the fuel mix thing 100% correct this time round. Still sounds as dead as ever upon starting. Made sure choke was set on cold when starting along with all the other checks still NOTHING
Was attempting to add some 2 stroke into the engine directly when i accidentally ripped open the spark plug housing the spring came out. So that's another issue. Does it sound like there's any hope?? lol
Or should I just purchase one