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Just got this as part of a house sale and paid a few hundred dollars to get it back in working condition. New starter/solenoid. New plug and filter. Carb serviced and cleaned. Compression is good and runs strong. No oil backpressure that I can see or feel.

Fights against compression a little upon first turning over but starts and runs fine for the most part. Recently though its been starting and stopping after five minutes with no crank after I try to restart. Just clicks when I turn the key but the starter doesn't engage.

Scratcher said:

Just got this as part of a house sale and paid a few hundred dollars to get it back in working condition. New starter/solenoid. New plug and filter. Carb serviced and cleaned. Compression is good and runs strong. No oil backpressure that I can see or feel.

Fights against compression a little upon first turning over but starts and runs fine for the most part. Recently though its been starting and stopping after five minutes with no crank after I try to restart. Just clicks when I turn the key but the starter doesn't engage.

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That's the one with the sewing machine engine? I can't remember and I'm not there.
I need more info...engine numbers....What make is it?

https://jdagccc.custhelp.com/ci/fattach/get/47699/0/filename/720+-+1842GV+1842HV.pdf see page 72 troubleshooting.

try energising the starter solenoid directly by running some jumpers to the small terminals on the solenoid.
If there are 2 run both a + & a -, polarity is not important
If there is only 1 then just a + should do.
Check the valve clearances.

shiftsuper175607 said:

That's the one with the sewing machine engine?

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Pretty strong for a sewing machine. I hitched a trailer on that thing and it was hauling 80lbs loads of firewood up a steep hill combined with my 200lbs. Haven't seen any stitchers doing that lately :biggrin:

I can't remember and I'm not there.
I need more info...engine numbers....What make is it?

Click to expand...

Model is 287707
Type 1274-E1
Briggs & Stratton 14.5 HP

Try pushing a needle through two layers of polished leather :laughing:
It is a bug bear here, you know what your 200 lbs was sitting on we don't.
If we don't know we really can not help

bertsmobile1 said:

, you know what your 200 lbs was sitting on we don't.
If we don't know we really can not help

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⇦↢All my model info

bertsmobile1 said:

try energising the starter solenoid directly by running some jumpers to the small terminals on the solenoid.
If there are 2 run both a + & a -, polarity is not important
If there is only 1 then just a + should do.
Check the valve clearances.

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I'm assuming you mean the two terminals with spade connectors with low voltage signal wire, which in my case, are on top of the solenoid? If I am understanding you correctly it seems you are asking me to run a jumper from my battery directly to one of those small signal wires? If that is the case them I'm a bit nervous about applying 12v directly to a low voltage circuit in order to energize the high voltage bridge.

My understanding of auto electrics is limited but I know enough that whenever I see a low gauge cable it means the voltage is limited. Applying 12v directly to such a cable usually results in a fried component or burned cable.

Like I said, my knowledge is limited, so I just want to be sure I understand what your suggesting I do.

It is all 12 V
The solenoid is 12 V and your starter is 12 V and the solenoid trigger is 12 V.
The small terminals draw abot 0.25 amps
the big terminals go about 150 A
That is why it is there
Same principle as a high voltage switch but in this case it is high amps.

The battery 12 V goes from the battery to the ignition switch to the PTO switch to the brake switch ( optional to gear switch ) then to solenoid.
All you are doing is by passing all those potential problems.
If it works fine when jumped then one of the switches , or the wires between them is not working.
If it dont work then it is down to the mower shop $ 20 in hand.

The JD manual tells you to back test this terminal checking for 12 V last but I find it easier just to bypass the lot.
Saves doing 6 individual tests to find ot the solenoid is no good.

Also it avoids problems with the digital calculator generation who get all worried because it has 11.395 V or 12.225V
Anything over 9 V is fine for most and some will work down to as low as 2 V.
If it worries you then get an in line fuse holder and put some aligator clips on it and use that to do the jumping.
You don't need your 400A car leads , any old light wire will do the job.

bertsmobile1 said:

try energising the starter solenoid directly by running some jumpers to the small terminals on the solenoid.
If there are 2 run both a + & a -, polarity is not important
If there is only 1 then just a + should do.
Check the valve clearances.

Click to expand...

Ok, did that and the solenoid energized. I also ran a jumper cable from the battery + directly to the starter and it turned the engine slowly. It was fighting against compression. Still no start. I'll put it on the charger incase it was low on juice and try again later.

So based on what I did already, what does that tell me?

https://www.briggsandstratton.com/us/en/support/manuals/results?NTT=287707-1274* operators manual & parts list, read operators manual carefully, page 15 has valve specs. intake & exhaust, adjust valves with engine cold.

Scratcher said:

Ok, did that and the solenoid energized. I also ran a jumper cable from the battery + directly to the starter and it turned the engine slowly. It was fighting against compression. Still no start. I'll put it on the charger incase it was low on juice and try again later.

So based on what I did already, what does that tell me?

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It tells you you have 2 problems

1) you have an electrical problem in the starting circuit.
Get a wiring diagram pinch the coloured pencils from the kids / grandkids / neighbours kids and color in the path from the starter solenoid back to the battery.
Then using the thin jumper lead you just made go in an bypass eack switch one at a time till the guilty party is found.
Usually in is a bad switch or dirty plug so lots of WD 40 or similar multiple dissconnection & reconnections of the plugs plus similar to the switch itself works wonders it gets very dusty down there,

2) it tells you you have a decompression problem.
Decompression is generally too much valve lash easy fix
Worn cam / cam followers not so easy fix.

bertsmobile1 said:

Get a wiring diagram.

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Having difficulty finding this. Neither of the two links posted earlier in the thread relate directly to my model.(GX1438B011233 1998 Sabre with Briggs & Stratton 14.5HP Model 287707 Type 1274-E1)

When I type in the model number to the JD help centerr mine does not come up.

Just to recap. Engine will turn when juiced direct from the battery to the starter. I now know the valves need adjustment which is the easy part.

Battery is fully charged. When I turn the key the solenoid clicks telling me that it has energized. That tells me the juice is going in.......right? I also checked the fuse (15amp) I assume there is only one?