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I have a 1995 Simplicity Regent 12HP Hydro. I was mowing yesterday and got stuck trying to go over a small hill on my property. Couldn’t get free, so I shut it off and was able to manually free it and move it back off the hill. Got back on and when I tried to start it, nothing happened. No click, no turn of the engine, nothing. Saw that the deck belt had broken, so replaced it, but that obviously didn’t change anything about the complete lack of power when I try to start it.

Can anyone offer any ideas as to what the problem might be? Can’t imagine what could have happened in the short span of time between getting stuck and getting free. Not likely to be the battery, as I just replaced that. Thanks in advance for any ideas!

You didn't forget to disengage the PTO did you?

StarTech said:

You didn't forget to disengage the PTO did you?

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No, PTO is disengaged.

I’ve tested the battery to be sure, and it is producing over 12v of power. Also tested to see if the starter solenoid is getting power from the battery, and it is. Again, the multimeter registered over 12v on the positive line.

Testing with a multimeter is not a good way to test a battery. It can show 12+ volts and still be bad. The true way is to load test it.

hlw49 said:

Testing with a multimeter is not a good way to test a battery. It can show 12+ volts and still be bad. The true way is to load test it.

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I just replaced it so I think it’s very likely to have anything to do with the battery. Testing it was more of a formality, not because I have any real cause to believe it is the problem.

Did you check the fuse?

IPL show a resetting circuit breaker but I have yet to find a proper wiring schematic for this mower. Does show neutral safety, PTO, and brake switches that should checked for proper operation.

I have not been able to locate a fuse. I did locate the solenoid and a circuit breaker under the seat by the battery, but no fuse. I’ve ordered replacements for those, since they are fairly inexpensive. And like StarTech I have not been able to locate a wiring schematic for my mower.

Here’s where I am as of today-I’ve replaced the solenoid, circuit breaker, and ignition switch and none of these have solved the problem. The only way I can get the mower to start, I’ve discovered, is by connecting a jump cable from the battery to the starter. It will start if I do that. What else could it be? I’ve noticed a cable dangling down above the mower deck. It was covered with electrical tape, and when I took the tape off discovered that it is a socket with a jumper pin inside. Is this some sort of safety switch?

There will be a small wire going to the starter solenoid. Disconnect it and see if you get battery voltage from it to ground when the key is turned to start position. If NO then the problem is in the start circuit. Could be ignition switch or any other safety switch OR a corroded connection. Start at the ignition switch. There should be battery voltage at the S terminal when the key is turned to the start position. If YES then you will need to work your way through the switches. clutch, PTO.
Clean the ground connection from battery to mower. If the engine has a fuel cutoff solenoid on the carb does it "click" when you turn the key to ON?

Hammermechanicman said:

There will be a small wire going to the starter solenoid. Disconnect it and see if you get battery voltage from it to ground when the key is turned to start position. If NO then the problem is in the start circuit. Could be ignition switch or any other safety switch OR a corroded connection. Start at the ignition switch. There should be battery voltage at the S terminal when the key is turned to the start position. If YES then you will need to work your way through the switches. clutch, PTO.
Clean the ground connection from battery to mower. If the engine has a fuel cutoff solenoid on the carb does it "click" when you turn the key to ON?

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So here's where I am as of today. There are TWO small wires going to my solenoid (it has a total of four posts) so I tested both and neither shows voltage when the key is turned to start. I've also found that the negative black cable seems to have an issue. I have tested it for continuity and cannot get a reading on my multimeter. I also cannot get a reading when I try to test for resistance. My understanding is that you are supposed to get a reading for continuity, and near zero resistance when you test this cable. Problem is, I'm not certain where the other end attaches to the chassis. It runs under the center console of the mower, and I cannot seem to get in there, at least not without removing the entire steering wheel. Anyone here know how to get in there? Can it be done without entirely removing the wheel? I tried to remove just the wheel but I don't see anything securing it to the steering column that I can remove to free it. I do see a black cable which comes out the other side of the console and is bolted to the engine block. I think this might be the other end of the cable, but I'd like to be able to follow it completely to be sure. Also, there appear to be several switches under there I'd like to investigate more closely as well.

I have found the seat safety, and what I believe is the PTO safety switch. Both appear to have been bypassed as they are disconnected and have a paperclip inserted into the sockets. The seat switch seems to work as it should, as when I removed the clip and tried to directly jump start the starteer it would not start until i either reinserted the clip or plugged it in. How would I test the PTO switch?

Usually a four post setup will have safeties in both the positive lead and the negative small leads. Without a proper wiring schematic it is a just a guessing game as what safety in each lead circuit.

It appears you have a two wire PTO switch that is a normally open switch when the plunger is not depress; normally closed when depressed. The neutral safety appears to be a normal closed switch base on the image of the switch.

No image of the seat switch assy which is listed as NLA but the switch should be replaceable. Is it black or grey housed? Black usually means a normal closed and grey usually mean normally open when not depressed.

Have you removed and cleaned the battery cable connections?

Connect meter set to voltage from battery + to engine case. Do you get battery voltage?

Connect meter set to resistance from battery - to engine case. Do you get less than .5 ohms?

Connect meter set to resistance from battery - then to each of the wires going to the small terminals on the start relay. Does one of them show less that .5 ohms of resistance?

Does this mower have a solenoid on the bottom if the carb? If yes does it make a click noise when the key is turned to the ON position?