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First time poster, long time LB owner with a few questions re: 1987 #7351 ignition coils.
1) What is the best way to check my ignition coil after my healthy Lawn-Boy just completely stopped running two nights ago?
2) Where is the best place to pick-up a new OEM coil (I know, pricey)? I've heard too many mixed experiences with the $20 Ebay versions.
Thanks for any advice,
Rocky

No comments? (at the risk of sounding impatient and my grass still growing)

Rocky

Below is an ebay link to a spark tester that I use for just a simple check of spark. It's really nice for narrowing down the culprit as to plug, or module.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/SMALL-ENGI...880083&hash=item1ea7ca19d0:g:rQkAAOxyqUpQ6VKQ

And below is an ebay link to about one of the cheapest OEM modules for your mower that I have seen. Part number 100-2948 (replaces 683215)

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-To...AgAAOSwxZNbViUe:sc:USPSFirstClass!79606!US!-1

LawnBoy 77,
Thanks for the advice. I did find no spark using a similar tester, but I need to make sure the black kill wire is behaving itself also.
I appreciate the coil link, I'll make use of it.
Have a great weekend,
Rocky

Then test the kill wire
Open circuit for running
closed to ground for stopping
So you can test it with a meter is you are under 40 and must have numbers
or
jut pull the thing off and see if it sparks.

Bertsmobile1,
Thanks for the info, sounds like a plan.
Rocky

So, replaced the coil with a brand-new LB/Toro piece ($$$) and still not starting. I noticed the starter cord pulls real hard even without the CJ14 spark plug. What's with that? It's not seized, but tight to pull = so not many revs on a normal length pull for a magneto to fire-up.:frown:
Keep those comments coming,
Rocky

Lawn-Boy Rocky said:

So, replaced the coil with a brand-new LB/Toro piece ($$$) and still not starting. I noticed the starter cord pulls real hard even without the CJ14 spark plug. What's with that? It's not seized, but tight to pull = so not many revs on a normal length pull for a magneto to fire-up.:frown:
Keep those comments coming,
Rocky

Click to expand...

If its tight to pull, that indicates the flywheel brake is not releasing the flywheel, not allowing it to spin freely. You would never get it to spin fast enough to start if the brake is not releasing. It's not rocket science, and if your cable is not broken, then it is not adjusted enough to pull the brake away from the flywheel. An inspection of the whole mechanism will help to understand how this works, and the cable should have an adjustment on the engine end to allow it to pull the brake further away when you squeeze the bar on the handlebar.

No, that was I first thing I thought of. Brake was OFF.
As a follow-up, I got rid of it and fired-up my 1980 UTILITY model that I had salted away.
I just love the light 20", non-staggered, 4 big wheel decks. If the plastic carb holds up well with today's gas, I'm set!https://www.lawnmowerforum.com/images/smilies/laughing.gif
Thanks,
Rocky