1985~89 B&S Sno/Gard enigne questions

[kenn_chan]

Quick intro:

Former Marine living in Japan and working on the local navy base, this will answer a lot of questions you guys have :smile:

Currently I am building a log splitter with some plans I bought on line and the tools at my home shop. I have been a fabricator since I left the corps so I have plenty of experience except in one area....small engine repair. In HS I took the required (for Indiana) industrial arts classes which included a course on small engine repair...but that was 30 years ago.

here is my question: I got my hands on a B&S Snow/Gard 8hp engine from around (I think) the 1985-89 time frame, cannot find out much more info about it Model 190432 type 1003 01 code 8105211. it turns over by hand and has good compression, but it seems to have two issues, no spark and no fuel. Carb is a mess so I ordered a new one from amazon (actual B&S part not chinese knockoff).

now for the spark part. I checked the plug, GTG gap looks OK but I do not have specs to measure against. the flywheel had rust on it so I wire brushed the area around the magnet and the bottom of the coil magneto assembly and returned them to the same air gap as prior to removal.

I disassembled the pull start and after chasing the little ball bearings in the clutch system managed to get it off until only the part left was the aluminum portion that held the ball bearings.

as a kid all the motors I worked on had a pulley that you wrapped the rope around and a large nut that was removed so you could take off the flywheel, but this engine has that aluminum piece and it looks like it has two flat spots for a thin spanner wrench. I thought there was a condenser below that and it does have wires running from the magneto coil down there (that was why I was trying to get it off so I could check to see if the electrolyte had leaked out), but I cannot get that clutch for the pull start off and prior to breaking it I wanted to ask if anybody could explain how to get it off.

Thank you in advance for any information you can spare.

Ken Morgan

 

[BlazNT]

Should be 2 to 4 screws to remove it.

 

[primerbulb120]

I've removed those before. I use an giant adjustable wrench (~ 3ft. long.) If you're not comfortable with that, Briggs and Stratton makes a special tool to take them off: amazon.com/Briggs-Stratton-19244-Starter-Replaces/dp/B005F6PYVO/ref=sr_1_1?s=lawn-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1460715556&sr=1-1&keywords=19244

When you get the flywheel off you will find the points and condenser underneath. It's quite probable they need replacing.

 

[BlazNT]

What is below that is the "nut" that hold on the flywheel.

 

[primerbulb120]

The starter clutch is also the flywheel nut. See this picture: https://www.ombwarehouse.com/images/product/R1324_MEDfile_800_store.jpg

 

[BlazNT]

The starter clutch is also the flywheel nut. See this picture: https://www.ombwarehouse.com/images/product/R1324_MEDfile_800_store.jpg

I work on one of those about 6 months ago with another engine at the same time. I can not believe I forgot that important bit of information. I forget little stuff all the time but that one should have stayed in my memory. It will now that is for sure. Thanks for the picture it sent my mind to the right spot.

 

[bertsmobile1]

Go to the briggs & Stratton USA web site, customer support , manuals , type in those numbers and download the parts books & owners manual.
That will save you ripping off bits that do not need to be removed.
If it has points fit a points eliminator trigger unit also called a hall effect trigger.
If you can find one for 4 stroke engies which will work better than the 2 stroke ones which advance the spark too quickly.
Use the search facility on here and type in Briggs & strattorn repair manual.
Several poster have put links up to workshop manuals that are free to download
Good luck and :welcome:

 

[kenn_chan]

Thanks for the welcome and the reply's. I waS pretty sure it was a nut, but better to ask first then to start whacking on something and break it. :thumbsup:

I went to the briggs site and the only info I could find on the motor was a basic 3 page flyer for initial startup. So I guess I need to search this sight for relevant manuals.

So another quickie is it a reverse thread. I would think so as the rotation is clockwise it would seem that you want a reverse thread so it could not back off.

Cheers

Ken

 

[kenn_chan]

Go to the briggs & Stratton USA web site, customer support , manuals , type in those numbers and download the parts books & owners manual.
That will save you ripping off bits that do not need to be removed.
If it has points fit a points eliminator trigger unit also called a hall effect trigger.
If you can find one for 4 stroke engies which will work better than the 2 stroke ones which advance the spark too quickly.
Use the search facility on here and type in Briggs & strattorn repair manual.
Several poster have put links up to workshop manuals that are free to download
Good luck and :welcome:

thats a riot...I did not know that they made retrofit kits for a crank sensor. I will have to search and see if I can find one. Shoot, maybe I should get like a motorcycle injector and wire up a megasquirt system on it :laughing: that would really piss off my wife what are you tuning this time...the logsplitter?

cheers

Ken

 

[kenn_chan]

Well great news, pulled the flywheel off cleaned the points and the wires where they went into the condesor, regapped them to proper clearance, put the flywheel back on, regapped the air gap for the magneto coil and she fired right up :smile: now I just need to wait for the new carb to arrive as this one the jets were frozen into place with corrosion and when I tried to screw it out it just fubarred stuff up. it will start but can't keep it running without playing with throttle and choke. hurry up amazon!

great thing is another member here ILENGINE,

That aluminum lower piece of the clutch is actually a nut. the actually briggs tool looks something like a spanner wrench. In a pinch you can put something soft against those little ears, which are just places for screws to hold the screen on. and tap on it to loosen the nut. Some of the clutch bases had places for four screws but only used two, so if that is the case you may be able to get a little rougher with the unused tabs.

It sounds like you have the points and condenser under the flywheel type so it will have to come off. And from your code number your engine is a 1981. and next time just point in one location. Multiple post confuse everybody, and you end up with responses in various locations and is hard to keep track off.

was able to ID the year from the serial numbers and its an 1981. not sure about comparing it to current engines, but I know my old model 9 that I had on my gocart as a kid was a work horse that I could not even destroy. hoping this is similar. I have heard that the current engines are garbage but that is just what I have heard. thing is this engine did not smoke one bit after I got it started, just played with the throttle to keep it running until I got it up to temp and then shut it down and did an oil change. should work great for the logsplitter I am building.

cheers