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17hp 1 cylinder B&S on 1998 Scotts mower runs about five seconds and dies

#1

M

MG McAnick

I bought this little used, but sadly neglected, mower at a garage sale last week. At least they'd kept it inside. It looks new. I figured I could make it run, but so far I'm not having much luck. It had no old fuel, so the tank was clean. I began by removing the Welbro carb and cleaning all its orifices with carburetor cleaner and a strand of wire. (Twice now) The needle and seat are functioning properly. The anti-diesel solenoid was sticky, but freed up nicely with the carb cleaner. It actuates when the key is turned on now, or pushes in by hand. It didn't before. There is good gravity fuel flow to the carb. The choke is fully closed with the throttle on full-fast. The choke did need to be adjusted. The governor spring is hooked up right. I think it still has a fuel starvation issue. It will run for a few seconds. If I let it sit for a minute or so with the key on, it will fire up again, and run for a few more seconds.

Any ideas?


#2

O

oneleg

MG McAnick said:
I bought this little used, but sadly neglected, mower at a garage sale last week. At least they'd kept it inside. It looks new. I figured I could make it run, but so far I'm not having much luck. It had no old fuel, so the tank was clean. I began by removing the Welbro carb and cleaning all its orifices with carburetor cleaner and a strand of wire. (Twice now) The needle and seat are functioning properly. The anti-diesel solenoid was sticky, but freed up nicely with the carb cleaner. It actuates when the key is turned on now, or pushes in by hand. It didn't before. There is good gravity fuel flow to the carb. The choke is fully closed with the throttle on full-fast. The choke did need to be adjusted. The governor spring is hooked up right. I think it still has a fuel starvation issue. It will run for a few seconds. If I let it sit for a minute or so with the key on, it will fire up again, and run for a few more seconds.

Any ideas?
Click to expand...

I'm not sure, but if the choke is closed with the throttle on fast, then it may be flooding out. Choke should be fully open for engine to run. A closed choke will cut off the air intake allowing to much fuel to get to the spark plug causing it to stop firing. After it sits a few minutes the gas will dry off the plug allowing the engine to start again but with a fully closed choke it just floods out again. Try opening the choke all the way. If it doesnt want to stay running with choke fully open try closing the choke half way then slowly open it all the way while engine is running. If I read the symptoms correctly this may help.


#3

M

MG McAnick

oneleg said:
I'm not sure, but if the choke is closed with the throttle on fast, then it may be flooding out.
Click to expand...

It won't start at all if left un-choked, or keep running at half throttle where the choke is open.


#4

Boobala

Boobala

MG McAnick said:
It won't start at all if left un-choked, or keep running at half throttle where the choke is open.
Click to expand...

Sounds like you have the "choke a matic" SINGLE throttle lever... linkage .. where you push throttle lever FULL fwd to choke for starting then pull back to run... all the way "back" is idle and ABOUT 3/4 fwd is FULL throttle ( a detent is felt )
sounds as if that carb still has an issue with cleaning... check the carb cleaning pictorial on this link..

.........http://outdoorpowerinfo.com/repairs/#id_walbro


#5

B

bertsmobile1

Replace the solenoid with a bolt as was the case before them.
Try again, runs OK and you know the guilty party, it is up to you how you go from there noting it is illegal in a lot of places to run without a soenoid fitted..
If not get an inline spark tester and hook it up.
Watch the spark to see if it stops before the engine dies = electrical problem
Stays flashing to the bitter end = fuel problem


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