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I recently hosed my black box ignition module on a 2 yo Simplicity Broadmore. Local dealers said the part was back-ordered till November. Tracked down a radical conversion kit (1687846YP) that replaces the sealed module with a new start switch. Now engine cranks with spark but no power to the carburetor fuel solenoid—any ideas. I was thinking of pulling the solenoid and plugging the port.

Going to need the model number of the mower so I see if I find a wiring schematic.

Also is this the keyswitch style? What I finding says three position so it might look a little different. If so there should be an imbossed number on it and I need it to find the Delta diagram. It would something like 37, 47, or 49.

What you are needing is 12v when on for the carburetor solenoid and know which tell me which terminal you need to connect to. Plus with equipment wiring schematic there might be already wire that just needs to jumper to.

Engine 18-0212 YG57713, Tractor Model 2691335-04 S/N 1000028465. Push-button start switch appears to contain all the logic in the black box which gets tossed in the conversion process
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Awaiting Briggs reply on the Simplicity wiring Schematic Request....Not in the OM or IPL.

Also your engine is a 44U777-0002-G1 in case you need to look-up parts for it.

I'll scan the B&S conversion instructions for you but the circuit info is limited.

Okay did some digging on the new ignition switch in the kit (7106169YP).

It is a Delta 37P.

So the L terminal is the switched 12V terminal. So there should be voltage on L in both Run and Start positions. If you have to you can run a secondary wire from it to the carburetor solenoid. But first check the solenoid connector if the voltage is already there in the run position. If present either the solenoid ground is missing or the solenoid itself has failed (and they do fail).

Close but not quite. The new switch is a push-button with no real key. No rotation and depression is locked out by the removal of a yellow plastic stick. (Much less vulnerable to passing tree limbs).

Key

Okay you different one then in the IPL.

It should look like this, Right? Except yours is Yellow.

There is two versions of this switch. A 2067-101 or 2067-105 with last three digits located on the switch. The 2067-101 is for non EFI engines and the 2067-105 is for EFI engines. Please comfirm which switch you have and I can give a pin out of the MX150 connector. Meanwhile I setup a couple PDFs here for in house use.

Can't get the new switch out to check #. The button has a start symbol, but no text. How would I ID an EFI engine? Engine S/N 18 0212 YG 57713, 23 HP, not for sale in Cal.

Removed parts. Black box uses 10 out of 12 wires

Well the engine you have is carbureted.

The new switch should have only six wires. The accessories pin is the one the Carburetor fuel solenoid needs to be connected to. Pin 3 and 4 would need checking as I don't have one those switches on hand as to which is ground when the switch is off.

Cacn't there as Briggs has never responded to my PowerPortal request for wiring schematic.

I will be checking the power to the fuel solenoid should the replacement conversion kit not fix the problem. Can't believe they would manufacture a lawn tractor that can't be washed. Should ship on July 14th.

Found 12VDC at the fuel solenoid but it seems flaky as if the current is lacking (good old solid-state leakage and high input impedance digital meters). Can't feel or hear any response from the solenoid. Hesitant to cut the wires for a current measurement so I ordered a replacement. Oddly prices range from $150.00 to $8.95. I went for the $12.98 version from Amazon.

Hopefully they have improved since the last batch I brought. Those either didn't work or fail within 6 months.

OEM are costly but are reliable usually. Aftermarket are mostly a miss.

rmsnowco said:

Found 12VDC at the fuel solenoid but it seems flaky as if the current is lacking (good old solid-state leakage and high input impedance digital meters). Can't feel or hear any response from the solenoid. Hesitant to cut the wires for a current measurement so I ordered a replacement. Oddly prices range from $150.00 to $8.95. I went for the $12.98 version from Amazon.

Click to expand...

You really don't need to cut wires to try and do a current measurement. You can use a 12v 1157 headlight bulb that loads the circuit. Replace the solenoid in the circuit with the bulb. If it lights up bright you don't have a problem with enough current. You can also get a Loadpro meter lead set. They will load a circuit and find bad connections.

More confusing information. Pic labeled

1687846YP - CONVERSION KIT, PUSH BUTTON START TO KEY SWITCH START PUSH BUTTON START TO KEY SWITCH​

rmsnowco said:

More confusing information. Pic labeled

1687846YP - CONVERSION KIT, PUSH BUTTON START TO KEY SWITCH START PUSH BUTTON START TO KEY SWITCH​

Click to expand...

rmsnowco said:

I recently hosed my black box ignition module on a 2 yo Simplicity Broadmore. Local dealers said the part was back-ordered till November. Tracked down a radical conversion kit (1687846YP) that replaces the sealed module with a new start switch. Now engine cranks with spark but no power to the carburetor fuel solenoid—any ideas. I was thinking of pulling the solenoid and plugging the port.

Click to expand...

Finally got hold of a 1687846YP Push Button to Key Ignition Kit. Failed after 4 hours of mowing. Delta Systems, Streetsboro, Ohio. Date Mfg-4F0, Style 037.

If there is no power to the carb solenoid then either the mower loom is bad or the jumper pigtail is bad or the key switch is wrong or faulty.
never having held one of these kits in hand then O have no idea how they are wired
When I do a bypass I go back through wiring diagrams till I get to the last keyed model then wire according to that
Most o the times that means I have to make up some new loom sections & replace 2 prong safety switches with 4 prong switches so I can get NO & NC at the same time without having to add a bunch of relays