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The engine had a broken rod I have replace rod , piston and cam shaft. I can not get engine to start because I am getting severe back pressure through the carburetor and oil filler tube. What is causing this problem?

Did you use a new head gasket? If not then this might be the problem. Could also be the valve gaps set too tight.

Yep Roxy told you right ...... Head gasket is one culprit, and then the valves on your OHV just might not be spot on.....

There is one other thing that might not be right though........ TIMING is a big issue...... Since you had the engine apart.........

Let us know Mon Ami ~!~!

I used a new gasket. How much compression should I have? I cleaned the valves up and I will try that.

Boudreaux In Eunice La. said:

Yep Roxy told you right ...... Head gasket is one culprit, and then the valves on your OHV just might not be spot on.....

There is one other thing that might not be right though........ TIMING is a big issue...... Since you had the engine apart.........

Let us know Mon Ami ~!~!

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I think the problem is that I am getting piston blow by. Is there some way that I can solve this with out spending a lot of money?

Ok. A few more questions for you. Did you use new rings? Does your engine have a cast iron sleeve, if so did you hone it? AND DID YOU CHECK THE TIMING? The person who suggested that knows his stuff. A sump gasket is a small price to pay. And I just thought of one more simple thing you should check first. Pull the flywheel and check the keyway. If it is even slightly scared then replace it.

I used new rings don't know about cast iron sleeve it didn't look like it had a cast iron sleeve did not hone timing is OK new sump and head gaskets put new key in key way Teryl says buy new engine. Dose anyone know where to get one cheap?

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For a start the valve guide is moving in the head so you need to contact Walt Conner for his guide fix .
The engine should throw oil out the dip stick tube when it is running.
The breather should have a reed valve on it, some can be fitted backwards and other just don't work at all.

Hi Bert, glad you chimed in........... I just put a new head on the same style engine he has....... The valve guides were in the exact same position as his....

He did tell me off the forum that his valves were pitted though, and he ordered a new valve lapping tool and some compound, fine grit.....

I did instruct him to check for flat of the head, doing a check with some 200 grit sandpaper on his flat surface area...

He did a couple engines a good while back and is familiar with a few things on the smaller Briggs.... He does have another head from another engine, same model and he will check both for flat.....

He did say that the rods were broke about 1 inch below the skirt of the piston ........... That tells me low oil or very overheating of the engine........

Since he has the heads off and will do a thorough lapping that should tell the story..... WE HOPE .......

Plus Tard Mon Ami ~!~!

I have done most every thing in the world to this engine except to do anything with cylinder walls. The lower part of cylinder shows ware. Do you think honing would solve the problem of blowby?

jairmay said:

I have done most every thing in the world to this engine except to do anything with cylinder walls. The lower part of cylinder shows ware. Do you think honing would solve the problem of blowby?

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My understanding is that the honing causes the new rings to wear in.