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16.5 hp Briggs and Stratton I turn the ignition switch and flywheel only turns 1/4 of the way around and stops. If I keep turning the key eventually

#1

E

eagle86801

16.5 hp Briggs and Stratton I turn the ignition switch and flywheel only turns 1/4 of the way around and stops. If I keep turning the key eventually it will start and run strong . 2022 a new battery, solenoid ,ignition switch its started normally from Oct 2022 until May 15 2023 now its acting up again . I ordered a new coil .


#2

B

Bertrrr

Battery


#3

E

eagle86801

eagle86801 said:
16.5 hp Briggs and Stratton I turn the ignition switch and flywheel only turns 1/4 of the way around and stops. If I keep turning the key eventually
Click to expand...
the forum never poster my whole post new Die Hard battery 2022 I tested the battery its good . I put in a new solenoid 2022 , new starter a Briggs , new ignition switch 2022. I think it may be the coil


#4

sgkent

sgkent

not the coil. Engines need to turn to start. I might look again at the battery, battery cables for solid connections and no corrosion. Also try it with the spark plug out to be sure that the cylinder isn't full of fuel and is hydrolocking. Battery cables can go bad internally too. Might be time to get the VOM out.


#5

B

Bertrrr

Roger that , pull the plug and spin it over should spin easily, coils have nothing to do with it spinning over or not


#6

E

eagle86801

sgkent said:
not the coil. Engines need to turn to start. I might look again at the battery, battery cables for solid connections and no corrosion. Also try it with the spark plug out to be sure that the cylinder isn't full of fuel and is hydrolocking. Battery cables can go bad internally too. Might be time to get the VOM out.
Click to expand...
I did clean the ends of the cables attached to the battery , they weren't to bad , cleaned the posts and cable with wire brush , I'll check them again tomorrow . I cleaned the other ends last fall when I replaced the solenoid


#7

B

bertsmobile1

Would be easier for us if you posted the complete engine number
However if it is an overhead vale engine then the symptoms are classic no decompression .
90% of the time this is because the valve lash on the inlet valve has gotten so big it is defeating the tiny movement caused by the ACR on the other 10% it is because the ACR mechinims on the cam shaft has self destructed .


#8

E

eagle86801

bertsmobile1 said:
Would be easier for us if you posted the complete engine number
However if it is an overhead vale engine then the symptoms are classic no decompression .
90% of the time this is because the valve lash on the inlet valve has gotten so big it is defeating the tiny movement caused by the ACR on the other 10% it is because the ACR mechinims on the cam shaft has self destructed .
Click to expand...


#9

E

eagle86801

sgkent said:
not the coil. Engines need to turn to start. I might look again at the battery, battery cables for solid connections and no corrosion. Also try it with the spark plug out to be sure that the cylinder isn't full of fuel and is hydrolocking. Battery cables can go bad internally too. Might be time to get the VOM out.
Click to expand...
It could very well be the hydrolocking because I smell gas for a day or two after cutting my lawn. Thank you I'll look into it


#10

E

eagle86801

eagle86801 said:
It could very well be the hydrolocking because I smell gas for a day or two after cutting my lawn. Thank you I'll look into it I installed a shut off valve after I read your post .
Click to expand...


#11

E

eagle86801

If its what you think it is it worth fixing or toss it out its got 675 hours on it ? thanks for you info and reply


#12

O

Ocean909

bertsmobile1 said:
Would be easier for us if you posted the complete engine number
However if it is an overhead vale engine then the symptoms are classic no decompression .
90% of the time this is because the valve lash on the inlet valve has gotten so big it is defeating the tiny movement caused by the ACR on the other 10% it is because the ACR mechinims on the cam shaft has self destructed .
Click to expand...
Saw that the OP had another post about this problem and had the engine number listed.
463707-2238E1-02020115A flathead


#13

B

bertsmobile1

Thanks.
I missed it was a double post so shall refrain from adding more confusion.


#14

E

eagle86801

bertsmobile1 said:
Thanks.
I missed it was a double post so shall refrain from adding more confusion.
Click to expand...
bertsmobile1 said:
Thanks.
I missed it was a double post so shall refrain from adding more confusion.
Click to expand...
That was my fault I didn't realize I was already a member to lawn mower forum and signed up again . Sorry for the confusion . I'm kind of desperate for help. All small engine repair shops in my area are straight out for at least 3 weeks and I have to cut my lawn every 4 days this time of year


#15

M

moparjoe

eagle86801 said:
16.5 hp Briggs and Stratton I turn the ignition switch and flywheel only turns 1/4 of the way around and stops. If I keep turning the key eventually it will start and run strong . 2022 a new battery, solenoid ,ignition switch its started normally from Oct 2022 until May 15 2023 now its acting up again . I ordered a new coil .
Click to expand...
Your valves need to be adjusted.


#16

mpqualdie

mpqualdie

eagle86801 said:
16.5 hp Briggs and Stratton I turn the ignition switch and flywheel only turns 1/4 of the way around and stops. If I keep turning the key eventually it will start and run strong . 2022 a new battery, solenoid ,ignition switch its started normally from Oct 2022 until May 15 2023 now its acting up again . I ordered a new coil .
Click to expand...
Broken camshaft most likely. A very common issue with the B&S engines. Little nub that cracks open the intake valve breaks off and the starter can't pull the motor past the compression stroke. Easy fix if your mechanically inclined. A lot of people buy batteries, cables, solenoids and etc., but the issue is the cam not opening the valve most likely. I Also have seen where people just wind the motor backwards by hand to give to starter a running start. While that may work keep in mind the shrapnel from the broken cam is in that motor and can damage it.


#17

I

ILENGINE

Being a opposed twin and no compression release used on that engine. Also the valves on those engines will close up to the point they will float the valves not open and cause compression release issues. And the opposed twins having issues with the starters being too weak for that size engine I would be leaning toward a starter issue.


#18

K

kjonxx

eagle86801 said:
16.5 hp Briggs and Stratton I turn the ignition switch and flywheel only turns 1/4 of the way around and stops. If I keep turning the key eventually it will start and run strong . 2022 a new battery, solenoid ,ignition switch its started normally from Oct 2022 until May 15 2023 now its acting up again . I ordered a new coil .
Click to expand...
Valves are not set right


#19

L

LMPPLUS

If it's a single cylinder B&S reset the valves and try it if it still doesn't turn over good it could be a broken decompression spring on the camshaft and would need to be replaced. Good luck/


#20

VRR.DYNDNS>BIZ

VRR.DYNDNS>BIZ

I would bet $1111111111 this is the answer to your problem. Adjust the valves. You can get the manual for your engine.


#21

DollarBill

DollarBill

bertsmobile1 said:
Would be easier for us if you posted the complete engine number
However if it is an overhead vale engine then the symptoms are classic no decompression .
90% of the time this is because the valve lash on the inlet valve has gotten so big it is defeating the tiny movement caused by the ACR on the other 10% it is because the ACR mechinims on the cam shaft has self destructed .
Click to expand...
I had a B&S single with exact symptoms mentioned. Adjusted valves for final resolution. Correct valve lash is paramount for compression release to function properly.


#22

E

eagle86801

moparjoe said:
Your valves need to be adjusted.
Click to expand...
Thank you the only trouble is is that every repair shop is backed up for three weeks . I'll try to make an appointment today . thanks again
mpqualdie said:
Broken camshaft most likely. A very common issue with the B&S engines. Little nub that cracks open the intake valve breaks off and the starter can't pull the motor past the compression stroke. Easy fix if your mechanically inclined. A lot of people buy batteries, cables, solenoids and etc., but the issue is the cam not opening the valve most likely. I Also have seen where people just wind the motor backwards by hand to give to starter a running start. While that may work keep in mind the shrapnel from the broken cam is in that motor and can damage it.
Click to expand...
thank you you help I'll look into this


#23

G

Gumshoew

Sound Iike pressure relief mechanism on cam is defective.


#24

D

DinosaurMike

Eagle86801, did the gas shutoff valve help? That was my solution on a Troy-Bilt tractor with a B&S engine some years ago. It lookd easier than pulling the carb. It works every time that I turn the valve off. One time I forgot and removed the spark plug to let out the gas by cranking the engine. Except I neglected to cover the spark plug wire and proved that it is a very smart idea to keep a fire extinguisher in the garage. Thankfully the only damage to the tractor was the headlight wiring. The damage to my ego was overwhelming. The engine runs fine.


#25

E

eagle86801

DinosaurMike said:
Eagle86801, did the gas shutoff valve help? That was my solution on a Troy-Bilt tractor with a B&S engine some years ago. It lookd easier than pulling the carb. It works every time that I turn the valve off. One time I forgot and removed the spark plug to let out the gas by cranking the engine. Except I neglected to cover the spark plug wire and proved that it is a very smart idea to keep a fire extinguisher in the garage. Thankfully the only damage to the tractor was the headlight wiring. The damage to my ego was overwhelming. The engine runs fine.
Click to expand...
I did install a fuel shut off valve and the few times I started it it started normally . Then I shut the valve off and ran the engine until it ran out of fuel and stopped . Dumb me the first time I forgot to turn the key off luckily it didn't kill the battery . This was the easiest fix I'm hoping the shut off solves the problem if not I move on the the other great suggestion I got on this forum . Thank you for your help.


#26

R

Robusta

eagle86801 said:
16.5 hp Briggs and Stratton I turn the ignition switch and flywheel only turns 1/4 of the way around and stops. If I keep turning the key eventually it will start and run strong . 2022 a new battery, solenoid ,ignition switch its started normally from Oct 2022 until May 15 2023 now its acting up again . I ordered a new coil .
Click to expand...
Sounds like compression release. Remove your air filter, cover intake with your hand and crank it. After one hesitant revolution it should crank with speed and start.
If you cut off the air there is nothing to compress so it will spin.


#27

E

eagle86801

Robusta said:
Sounds like compression release. Remove your air filter, cover intake with your hand and crank it. After one hesitant revolution it should crank with speed and start.
If you cut off the air there is nothing to compress so it will spin.
Click to expand...
thank you for your help


#28

C

Cajun power

couple of ideas:

never assume new batteries are good. Try to bypass your battery. I use my truck battery and "jump/bypass" the mower battery (if you don't have a load tester). If the mower rolls over and starts...you have a bad battery or a low state of charge. solve that. recharge the mower battery with a charger and try again. If it starts and runs then that solves the low state of charge issue. it if continues to have problems starting then your battery is either bad or the charging circuit to it is bad measure voltage from charging circuit during run...should read at least high 13 volts up to 15 volts, with mid 14 volts usually being typical.. Or it can be some kind of parasitic drain on the battery during storage.

next...for engine related diagnosis...quick things to do to rule out engine problems.

take both spark plugs out. rotate by hand...should rotate easily with very little resistance...if you take the valve covers off when you do this, you can see the valves moving....notice the auto compression release cycle...both valves should pop just slightly...if they don't, either that ACR has locked up and failed OR the valve lash and timing is bad. Do the valve lash clearance ...do it per the service manual. be precise. Does flywheel magnet match up to corresponding ignition coil modules at top dead center? refer to service manual for this position. Sometimes woodruff/keyway get slammed and timing is off. it's an easy thing to check. It's rare, but sometimes they keyway on the flywheel shaft gets slammed and drifts.. By checking the position of the magnet to the coils you can see if there is some misalignment that has affected timing. Try rocking the flywheel back and forth. There should be zero play.

has anyone adjusted valve clearance recently? it's a common mistake to bork this up when doing valve clearance and timing adjustments. I've done it twice and though I consider myself pretty good at it. Pay attention to magnet to coil position AND when top dead center actually happens.....and noticing when auto compression release occurs in the cycle. to the untrained or careless eyeball, that subtle movement can be hard to notice. Be precise.


#29

M

Mattdad1

I would try removing the air filter and cupping your hand over the carburetor air intake. Try to start the engine. if it starts, you have a broken compression release.


#30

E

eagle86801

Cajun power said:
couple of ideas:

never assume new batteries are good. Try to bypass your battery. I use my truck battery and "jump/bypass" the mower battery (if you don't have a load tester). If the mower rolls over and starts...you have a bad battery or a low state of charge. solve that. recharge the mower battery with a charger and try again. If it starts and runs then that solves the low state of charge issue. it if continues to have problems starting then your battery is either bad or the charging circuit to it is bad measure voltage from charging circuit during run...should read at least high 13 volts up to 15 volts, with mid 14 volts usually being typical.. Or it can be some kind of parasitic drain on the battery during storage.

next...for engine related diagnosis...quick things to do to rule out engine problems.

take both spark plugs out. rotate by hand...should rotate easily with very little resistance...if you take the valve covers off when you do this, you can see the valves moving....notice the auto compression release cycle...both valves should pop just slightly...if they don't, either that ACR has locked up and failed OR the valve lash and timing is bad. Do the valve lash clearance ...do it per the service manual. be precise. Does flywheel magnet match up to corresponding ignition coil modules at top dead center? refer to service manual for this position. Sometimes woodruff/keyway get slammed and timing is off. it's an easy thing to check. It's rare, but sometimes they keyway on the flywheel shaft gets slammed and drifts.. By checking the position of the magnet to the coils you can see if there is some misalignment that has affected timing. Try rocking the flywheel back and forth. There should be zero play.

has anyone adjusted valve clearance recently? it's a common mistake to bork this up when doing valve clearance and timing adjustments. I've done it twice and though I consider myself pretty good at it. Pay attention to magnet to coil position AND when top dead center actually happens.....and noticing when auto compression release occurs in the cycle. to the untrained or careless eyeball, that subtle movement can be hard to notice. Be precif theses things
Click to expand...


#31

E

eagle86801

If the valves have to be done I'll have to bring it to a professional I'm not good at such things. Thank you for your help


#32

flyhalhl@gmail.co.

flyhalhl@gmail.co.

eagle86801 said:
16.5 hp Briggs and Stratton I turn the ignition switch and flywheel only turns 1/4 of the way around and stops. If I keep turning the key eventually it will start and run strong . 2022 a new battery, solenoid ,ignition switch its started normally from Oct 2022 until May 15 2023 now its acting up again . I ordered a new coil .
Click to expand...


#33

flyhalhl@gmail.co.

flyhalhl@gmail.co.

eagle86801 said:
If its what you think it is it worth fixing or toss it out its got 675 hours on it ? thanks for you info and reply
Click to expand...
Check valve clearance adjustment, especially if overhead valves. All of these type loose adjustment and severely disables the compression release on startup. Normal valve clearance is small and subjective to wear. Briggs and Kohler


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