14" Poulan Woodshark
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Thanks, appreciate it!
I got surprise too, i took the side cover and recoil off the saw to get better access to the primer bulb, and apparently Walbro makes the Flywheel... had their name stamped on it.. who knew... i didn't!
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call off the hounds! Found a junk walbro carb and robbed one off of it.
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is there a tentative setting to start from on L and H screws... I got idling good, but it would die at almost top speed, so i just turned H out 1/4 at a time, then eventually wouldn't even start back up, and then had some fuel running out the muffler, took the spark arrester screen off and cleaned it. and removed the spark plug and pulled the starter a few times to clear it out.
Right now i just set the screws to bottomed out and I'm about to eat... Repairs don't go so smoothly when my blood sugar gets low.
Right now i just set the screws to bottomed out and I'm about to eat... Repairs don't go so smoothly when my blood sugar gets low.
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One thing that just dawned on me, I think poulan recommends 50:1, I put 40:1 in it as that's all i had, and it does leave some oily residue on the muffler... I'm going to drain out the 40:1 and put 50:1 in it before i do anything else.
Or the new needle isn't sealing right ........
Or the new needle isn't sealing right ........
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It is not an air head (Strato) carb. Base settings are 1.5 turns on both mixture screws. When turning tune idle first and then hi speed. They do interact with each other.
Scrub you did set the meter lever height? It is set level with the metering chamber floor. Also make sureyou have the gaskets and diaphragms in the correct order. And yes I have seen the needle seat itself (not the needle and seat contact) to leak on these cubes which is why I pressure test the fuel pump side the carburetors.
And really when everyone will start just using a multi-mix fuel oil. Sure saves times not having to have multiple mix sitting around going bad.
Plus that older Poulan it is 40:1 from the factory but was when oil were not the quality they are today. When the synthetic multi-mix oil I use and sell it is good for anything 50:1 to 16:1 which actually mixed at 50:1.
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Got her running good now! apparently 50:1 (VP 2 cycle oil) and adjustment is all she needed ,sawed through some logs like a champ. and idles great and revs without hesitation.
BUT, the thing drinks bar oil, only while running though, it will puddle up if just sitting idling, and really slings it off when revving. when sitting off, the residual drains off and no more leaks. i cleaned it up and while running, the oil appears to be coming from where it is supposed to. Never done anything with a chainsaw oiler before..
i read over on Jacks forum that the Poulan oiler is different than a Husq. ( my dad has a Husq. 445 rancher), of course the poulan saw in the link is a different model than mine.
BUT, the thing drinks bar oil, only while running though, it will puddle up if just sitting idling, and really slings it off when revving. when sitting off, the residual drains off and no more leaks. i cleaned it up and while running, the oil appears to be coming from where it is supposed to. Never done anything with a chainsaw oiler before..
i read over on Jacks forum that the Poulan oiler is different than a Husq. ( my dad has a Husq. 445 rancher), of course the poulan saw in the link is a different model than mine.
Poulan chain saw bar change and excessive oiling problem? | Lawn Mower Forum | Jacks Small Engines
Hello,I've recently acquired a used Poulan model PP5020AV chainsaw.I've toyed with the idea of changing the 20", 3/8" pitch, 70 link, .050" gauge chain and bar to something smaller, like maybe a 14" or 16".Any thoughts on pro's, con's, and availability?Also, the chain oil is everywhere. I...
forums.jackssmallengines.com
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This is because on the PP5020AV and the P3314 the oil pump is driven by the crankshaft and not by the clutch drum. Most newer saws like the Husqvarna 445 are now clutch drum driven so the oil pump only operates when the chain is moving. but older saws pumped oil the whole time running. Solution for these was to just turn the saw off when not using them.
I got a couple Little Red Homelite saws where the oil pump are crankcase impulse driven the does the same thing. Not a problem as I always turn the saws off before climbing back out the fruit trees that I am trimming. I also got several Poulan Micro 25s style saws and one brand new Husqvarna 450 modified with variable oil pump. I have yet to crank it in the three year that I have own it. Usually don't have reason to as most time I have customer saws to test anyways like small project Sunday where I using a Stihl MS250.
I got a couple Little Red Homelite saws where the oil pump are crankcase impulse driven the does the same thing. Not a problem as I always turn the saws off before climbing back out the fruit trees that I am trimming. I also got several Poulan Micro 25s style saws and one brand new Husqvarna 450 modified with variable oil pump. I have yet to crank it in the three year that I have own it. Usually don't have reason to as most time I have customer saws to test anyways like small project Sunday where I using a Stihl MS250.
Hammermechanicman
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I have had customers bring in the poulans micro xxv and the craftsman variants not oiling. If it is not just the oil line rotted off i tell them i won't do any more. The check valves are NLA and every used one i or a customer gets off a used saw doesn't work. So to avoid charging for labor and not fixing the saw i just tell them i can't fix the oiling issue.