10.5 HP B&S Backfiring/Popping.

EngineMan

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Looking at your pic number 121311 the head gasket engine block side looks that if its been blowing. it may well be the way the photo was taken, you will know when you replace it with a new one, make sure you clean both faces well before fitting, and do the bolts in order.
 

czmorris

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Thank you for taking a look. I see what you mean in the photo.

When I get a chance I will take some photos of the push-rod ends.
The steel one has perfectly spherical ends and the aluminum one has a small area where it is flat on both ends. I couldn't really tell if this the way they are made or if it indicates wear.

I have on the way:
- A valve lapping tool and compound.
- A gasket kit (head gasket, exhaust, valve cover ect)
- A valve spring tool.

Any suggestions on cleaning method for the head gasket and the carbon build-up?
I was thinking about some of those green scrubbing pads, carb cleaning or WD-40, and maybe a blade.

Appreciate the comments!
-Zach
 
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A brass wire wheel/cup will work perfect and not damage anything......... One that goes in a drill of course....

That will clean off all your areas... Be sure to scrape off the major parts of the gaskets first.........
 

EngineMan

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"green scrubbing pads, carb cleaning or WD-40" they will all do the job, many videos on youtube that will show you how to clean it and how to do the valves/head bolts.
 

czmorris

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Thank You. The parts/tools I need arrived yesterday and now I am just waiting for some decent weather.

I will take some pictures along the way and update when I am done.

Appreciate all the help.
-Zach
 

czmorris

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Did yo get it running?

Still waiting for some decent weather at a time when I am actually home in order to work on it. Hopefully this weekend. I will definitely post the results one way or another once I have worked on it.

Regards,
-Zach
 

czmorris

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The wife went out with friends tonight so I had a little time to work on the head in my workshop... err closet with a workbench.

I cleaned the head, pulled the valves and lapped them.

The intake valve did feel like it was wanting to stick a bit when I removed the spring and worked it back and forth. After lapping, and using some lube in the channel and working it back and forth the sticking went away but there was still noticeably more resistance to the way it felt sliding the intake valve back and forth than there was for the exhaust valve. Anyone know if this is normal?

I also tried to take some pictures of the end of the aluminum push rod to show what I was talking about previously about it being flat and not being sure if that was wear or how it is designed.
When I put the valves back in I sprayed some cleaner into the intake and exhaust ports and checked that the valves did not leak until opened.

Side Note: Getting those little spring keepers back in place was more of a pain than I was expected. Eventually got it.

I took several pictures during the process and I have posted them to the link below.
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1JDacJyeVPT1CTI97IfSXmOCa3LGA0hBX?usp=sharing

Regards,
-Zach
 

EngineMan

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Pic 215856 there is some rust on the stem (is that the inlet valve) which you need to remove with some wet and dry paper, by the looks of the valves they needed doing so you haven't wasted your time there...! if the inlet valve is not bent it should be fine with a clean up, didn't see a photo of the push rods so can't give you an answer to that one.
 

czmorris

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Pic 215856 there is some rust on the stem (is that the inlet valve) which you need to remove with some wet and dry paper, by the looks of the valves they needed doing so you haven't wasted your time there...! if the inlet valve is not bent it should be fine with a clean up, didn't see a photo of the push rods so can't give you an answer to that one.

Thank You. Good to know.
I have the sandpaper on the way and I will do that.

The push rods are in photos 212918 and 212852

I will try to get some decent photos of the completed valves when I am done.

Thanks again.
-Zach
 
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