Search results

For what it's worth, this is the reason why belts are still used as it's a safety feature. If you were mowing and say hit a larger rock that lodged between the blade and deck, locking the deck up solid, the belt can slip while the motor stalls out due to the lock up being beyond it's brake horse...

For what it's worth, I added some Arnold 16 x 6.5 and ran a bronze top hat bushing per side, on inner side of axle spindle that was exact 3/4" ID + exact length, to make up for the rim's hub being a little bit narrow vs. stock, and greased them along with the rim. Cotter pins were snug against...

Ended up with some Arnold 16 x 6.5 from Lowe's. Sits about an inch higher up front and tire is thinner than oem, and runs a journal bearing. Ended up using bronze bushings (one per side) to compensate for the rim's hub only being about 3" long. Bronze bushings were thankfully exact fit (bushing...

Just wondering what full upgrade options I have for my 312-8, and how much of the steering linkage needs to be swapped at the same time? Like, is a 520H front axle + tie rods a direct swap? Anything with a roller or ball bearings on the spindles to reduce turning friction? Trying to plan ahead...

Thanks. Detailed rim info is kinda hard to find or I'm typing the wrong things into search as everything pulls up 8 in. swaps, lacks the spindle info, etc.. Appears it's a 3/4" spindle with 3.75" length (4.25" total length) if measuring to the cotter pin hole. Tire on there is 16 x 6.00. Will...

Thanks. I have a 312-8 but found a video for a 520H where the guy went over everything to reduce play. Gives me enough of an idea to tackle my 312. If anyone else is looking at this, video is old but was helpful:

Model: 73429 Ser: 200000405

'97 or '98 Wheelhorse. I took a 48" Craftsman snow plow and converted that into a tractor shovel with dual winches (one open/closes and other lifts the entire plow/shovel scoop). Shovel assembly alone is heavy enough it can lift the rear/nose dive empty with NO ballast, so I've got about 300...

Wheelhorse from around 1998 or '97. I built a tractor shovel and have been putting close to 350-400 pounds over the nose and after about 40 hours of usage, noticed one of the front wheels was canted. Popped the plastic cover off and something blew out as the only thing keeping the rim on the...

Pulled carb about 2 weeks ago and inspected. There was some black stringy stuff in the fuel bowl (very small amount) and I went ahead and broke a very thin needle tip off and used needle-nose pliers to hold it at a 90 degree angle and went ahead and chased out those low speed holes near the...

Thanks for the links guys. I'll go ahead and pull it and clean it out tomorrow and see if it helps.

Had chance to run it a bit. Choke was part of the problem where it can at least start now. But low idle will usually stall and it needs about 30-50% above idle to stay running reliably. Back-fired last time it was shut down but choke was fully open. Family :SKH398U1G2RA Model: CH12.5S Spec...

Doesn't appear to have a solenoid. I discovered the choke cable was no longer aligned correctly and was affecting butterfly full-shut position, adjusted it, and started up OK throughout the day but still suspect it has the float issue. Plan on using it throughout the day Sunday, so will see...

Engine is from 2002/2003 and in a late 90's Wheelhorse and is apparently a repower the previous owner did (bought at estate sale so no history but he changed fluids). Anyhow, it ran great for about 2 years, always fired right up. Then more recently, had some hard to restart when hot occurrences...

Curious to see if the plate is still there. Anyhow http://gardentractorpullingtips.com/a1engine.htm#headerpipes sells a ring flange that fresh exhaust pipe can get welded to and even offer welding a pipe to it if not wanting to cut the factory muffler pipe up if anyone else ever looks for this...

Guessing you more hardcore guys know of this site but stumbled upon this just now: http://gardentractorpullingtips.com/cylhead.htm http://gardentractorpullingtips.com/engine.htm Has lots of info from heads to specs.

I'll keep that in mind. Might get lucky and it'll move w/o much fuss.

Yeah, whatever my 312-8 from late 90's is. Funny thing is I never new you could do half the stuff to these types of mowers that you can having been in suburbs most of my life. Having been a car guy since a kid it's odd discovering these riding mowers can do more than cut grass lol. But still...

Ah well. Was hoping they were all similar. Didn't realize they went with a V-Twin. How about head work? Anyone make/sell a higher compression head? Or any heads better than others? Engine runs good, so definitely prefer to keep it vs. swapping it out unless something makes sense.

Check the fuel filter while under the hood. I noticed the see through filter on mine was getting white gunk on it last summer and it had a couple hard restarts with excess cranking.

1. Was wondering what the main differences between my M12 (late 90's Wheelhorse 312-8 application) and the other M series like M16 through M20, etc.? 2. Was told mine has (or had as I haven't checked yet and not original owner) a restrictor plate to choke it down a bit. Any idea what it'd be...

Great info guys! Too cold to work on it atm but I'll look into a left handed bit and will use MAPP torch on it. Hopefully the balled dremel bit will be long enough to even reach the stud. Worse case suppose I could take a bolt and drill though it's center and use that for a bit guide. 4. The...

Had this about 2 years now, and use the mower more as a mini tractor (made my own attachments for rear, like custom ripper, heavy duty box scraper, towing hundreds of pounds off dirt/rock at a time, etc., etc.,) but also still cut grass with it. Best $350 I've spent in a long time. Anyhow...

Bearing never arrived and message left at seller's business was not returned despite the money being paid. Got very lucky though and noticed a bushing at local Tractor Supply store which fit the shaft. Was around 0.252 mm too small to fit the tube on the case snugly, so cut a band out of a soda...

Found a free sharing site that seems to work. Dirt near rear of house with water was currently being filled (all the fresh tilled was about 12" of build up being pulled back to fill water which is 100% clay at the base) and large square that was tilled down was done before I noticed the shaft...

Know what the size cap per picture is? I turned resolution down to 1.5mb size range and still too big. Yeah it's a tough little tiller minus the stress cracks that need attention. I removed the adjustable drag bar off the rear and just let it do what it wants then walk forward. When it digs...

OK, figured out what it is. 21031-9 made in 1989 (must have had it's roots in the late 70's given it's appearance). Dunno why, but was finally able to read the tags which had no ink showing before. All the clay mud caked on there must have reactivated the ink LOL. Upon closer inspection in the...

Just got lucky and found something that virtually identical: tiller: https://parts.shankslawn.com/oemparts/a/mtd/5b776a6487a866161446e0db/chain-case-assembly Chain case: https://www.partstree.com/models/210-020-205-mtd-tiller-1990-mid-states-distributor/parts-1/ Guessing I need #24 and the #26...

Hello. Bought one of these locally and despite being from, I'm guessing the mid 1970's, it's super tough and breaks up 8" chunks of clay and whatever else I throw at it. A 2' pile of chunks of clay/soil and it just rips. Anyhow, started popping the belt and noticed the shaft the V pulley is...

Recently purchased a 5000w Generac with it's original 10hp Briggs and Stratton. The original owner bought it new for a hunting cabin and used it a few times circa 1978 or 1979, then it sat in a basement for about 40 years. The fuel lines were replaced in 2004 going off the date codes on the...