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Thanks, if I ever go back in there – for instance, if my electrical tape splice fails – then I'll take your advice, for sure.

The problem has been fixed. I replaced the ignition coil assembly that tested bad, and I spliced a severed kill wire that led to both coil packs. When I lifted the engine cover to get to the coil packs, I saw that the kill wire was broken. Weird, right! No rodent marks or signs of heat-related...

I have all but eliminated a fuel supply problem. Tomorrow I'll be testing to see if a cylinder is dropping. I have an ignition coil assembly ordered and on the way because all indications (not listed here) lead to that. I will update this when I learn something – for the sake of future Googlers.

So if I might be "dropping a cylinder", what can I do to check for that and/or fix it?

Very helpful. Thanks!!

I thought about that. How can I fix it? Remove the tanks and clean them? Easier way?

I see. Thanks for that explanation!

When surging, when I re-engage the blades, it's backfiring. Isn't that due to running too rich? No?

OK great! I'll give it a go and report back later. Thanks for that thoroughly thorough suggestion!!

My Gravely ProTurn 148 with Kawasaki FX691V runs perfectly for 30 minutes then begins to slightly surge a little. As run time increases surging increases, and it begins to act as though I were slowly increasing the choke handle. Like it wants air. For instance, when I disengage the blades then...

On a Gravely Pro-Turn 148 with a Kawasaki 691V engine I've replaced the voltage regulator because my battery drains after a few mows of my 3 acre lot. The stator is sending 33 AC volts to the new regulator, but the B+ post on the regulator is registering only 11.9 DC volts output (if I'm testing...