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i think i found a better video that might be the process.

I have this Worldlawn 52" Venom stand on mower that was left at my house by my bother so i have been using it and the drive belt broke. I have the correct belt and the user manual and the parts manual from the website but there are no instructions for changing the drive belt. Does anyone know...

This is the old rear engine rider with the 11x4.00-5 front wheels and tires. I cant find any replacement with the correct hub length and width. Everything I find is for zero turn and is 5 inches hub length and my measurement has the one I need at 2.5 inches. Anyone else have any luck finding a...

NO is correct. Opened the engine and the entire governor assembly was destroyed and that is what pushed the governor shaft out of the engine.

i see what you mean by the governor shaft in this video of another briggs engine Do you think i can jb weld this without taking the engine apart?

ahh this makes sense. it was on an old snapper RER that had a broken throttle and choke linkage so it was zip tied at high throttle.

I'm trying to understand how this happened and what the function of this part is. The engine has compression and continued to run after the failure until i turned it off but was way down on power. The damage on the tip of the brass tube is obviously concerning. Im trying to decide if this is a...

sorry that isnt the actual deck. just an example of the deck that came with the sx95

Is there any way to know what decks will fir this model? I assume the decks from the SX, GX and RX series rear engine models will fit but I'm having a hared time locating a used one in my area. Are there other more popular decks that would fit without much modification? any help is appreciated.

I bought a used Briggs 12hp engine (281707-0415-01) without muffler and exhaust that came of a Murray. I'm trying to figure out which exhaust pipe and muffler is going to fit because the ones shown in the parts manual for the engine don't look like good options with the exhaust port facing the...

yep i got it.

i got it off easily when i put a piece of wood between the pulley and the engine and hit it with a hammer. The key is wedged in the shaft real good though since i was hitting it the wrong way with a hammer for 30 minutes.

i have been doing it wrong by trying to remove the key and then the pulley because the pulley would not budge. Im going to heat up the shaft and try to remove the pulley with the key still in place. Thanks to everyone for their input.

I removed the set screw with an allen wrench easily. Have sprayed the key down with liquid wrench 3 different times and let is set for hours even days. Should I be trying to push the key out the direction of the yellow or red arrow in my picture illustration? You can see in the picture i have...

it was the 25 amp fuse. replaced it and it worked but blew the fuse again after starting it 3 times.

i have continuity between Battery and Solenoid leads and between Magneto and ground so i dont think the issue is the ignition switch anymore.

no you just turn it to start like in a car. turn it off like in a car. the pull start will not work unless it is in the run position and when its running turning the key off still kills the engine like it should

actually that was an old picture. i replaced this solenoid with a new one wired the same way and it worked for a year then the ignition switch got bumped a few times and keeps coming unplugged because the leads are kind of loose im just trying to rule out that it is not the fuse or a short in...

This is the solenoid. which wire can i test for 12v to see if the issue is the ignition switch, the fuse or something else? The small red wire running to the terminal on the right?

i have an old series 6 with the 3 prong ignition switch. is there a way to test the ignition switch to see if it is bad? If i jump the solenoid with a screw driver it turns the starter and starts fine and I replaced this solenoid 2 years ago with a new one. If i take the wires out of the back of...