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I use a stepped cone-style balancer. Hey, have any of you noticed that NONE of the alignment steps in those balancers correspond with ANY hole in any blade?

Sometimes, there could be a bit of debris in the carburetor bowl. I've had that happen from time to time.

Yes, they are. They are VERY high quality, but EXPEN$IVE. I have a pair of small/medium water pump pliers, and they were over $35, some 15 years ago.

I had a mower that quit running, and I discovered that the fuel line before the filter was plugged with spider eggs. Pressured the gas tank, and it shot out. How that danged thing got in there is beyond me. That's very rare and unusual, but apparently I'm the exception.

For future reference, draining when hot will not only drain faster, but any debris in the system will flow out while it is still in suspension. That's been the preference.

"I cut some today getting used to this machine. It is a lot different, but very comfortable and cuts great." I understand: I borrowed my friend's Dixon Kodiak, and it was frightening to mow, at first. I told him it was like shaving with a chainsaw, but by the time I finished, it was like...

Speaking of compression, have you checked the compression, both cold AND hot? There are tolerances in the valve train to accommodate the expansion of those parts, and the wear on the engine changes those tolerances. It's possible that you're not getting enough compression. It's an easy check.

I'm no help: I mow 5+ acres with a 21" self-propelled push mower. I mow for over an hour (or run out of gas, whichever comes first) each day, until I'm done. It's supposed to be great for your health (you know, all that walking, cardio workout, etc.), but all I get is beat.

You can buy torque rods/extensions, that only allow a pre-engineered amount of torque when used with an impact wrench. That way, with your impact wrench at maximum, it will only torque to what it is designed. They're not too expensive, and most tool companies will sell them, either as a kit...

The main, and most important reason to use synthetic oil, is that air-cooled engines will run cooler, alleviating overheating and fuel vapor lock problems.

Has anyone tried something like that spray-on bed liner, without the grit?

Are you referring to the left and right motors that drive each wheel? I don't know what kind of motor they are, but if they are piston/swashplate style, you don't want to be tearing into them - it's like rebuilding an injector pump; lots of small parts, and very tight tolerances. Even a...

You say you ordered a new carb from Amazon? If so, why not just put it on? I hope you didn't tear the new carb apart just to steal the needle valve and seat.

It's also possible that your rings are getting blowby, pressurizing the crankcase, and pushing oil through the vent tube into the carb, making a mess like you described. It's much more involved to inspect, but maybe do another compression check. By the way, what is the proper spec on the...

If the grass I'm cutting is green, it will build up under the deck of both of my CC mowers, my old 2165, and my new SC 500HW. Fortunately, they have deck washing attachments, which helps somewhat. I've always wondered if that plastic spray-on bedliner put on without the grit, would work.

When you get a new belt on it, look at the belt layout; I have a 48" on an old 2165 mower, and I discovered that the two outer pulleys we're almost a inch lower than the drive pulley, causing the belt to dive between the pulley and swing arm, cutting the belt. The CC mechanic and I determined...

Oh, yeah; mouse urine is highly caustic. You ought to see the fireworks when they've peed all over the armature of a 75hp, 440V, 3-phase well motor. It's spectacular, frightening, and expensive (had to replace and adapt a new motor to the old well).

How about airless tires? There are a few manufacturers out there. One is called Amerityre, and they make a polyurethane tire that's supposed to hold up very well, and still fit on pneumatic wheels. They are kind of pricey, though, but you'll never have a flat front tire again.

I was told by a Cub Cadet mechanic that synthetic oil will make the air-cooled engine run cooler, and smoke less. But do your best to run the recommended viscosity, which will most likely be a multi-grade oil, like 10W-30 (there's a chart in your manual for oil requirements at different...

Considering all of the zero-turn mowers I've seen mowing lawns with a perpetually flat front tire, I would consider an airless tire: they never go flat, the ride is very comparable to pneumatic tires, and they generally last a very long time. There is a company called Amerityre, that makes a...

The loud noise could be cavitation, which means that you have air in the system. That seems to be a problem with these hydrostats; they don't self-bleed very well. On some Cub hydrostats, you can use CIH HyTrans fluid; it's the best hydraulic/transmission fluid on the market, and since some...

I had a similar issue with my 2165. It would start, but then quit. After a great deal of testing, I replaced the Voltage Sensor PN 925-3251, and it's worked fine since. Apparently, if something goes wrong with that, it will start, but then quit. It's also possible that the brake safety...

I have a '98 Cub Cadet 2165, that the engine has pretty much gone to the dogs (burns nearly 1/2 qt per mowing, own stock in spark plug company). I aquired a 670 Predator engine, and was wondering if anyone else has done something like this? If so, what is needed to fit the driveshaft to the...