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So I learned that the metering lever should be flush with the body for Zama C1Q-S159 carbs. I checked the lever which was below the body so adjusted the lever up and put back together after checking the needle was seating properly by blowing through the fuel nozzle. The engine then wouldn't...

It is a bit fiddly. I took the spring connector and plug cover off an old strimmer and used that. It had two ends on the spring similar to a clothes peg. I had to line them up on the cable and squeeze trough using a pliers making sure the spring end was central on the cable so it would make...

I replaced the sparg plug. That was the first problem I had to fix. Someone had pulled the spark plug boot off. I put on a new spring connector and boot cover. I struggled to get engine going and realised the spring connector was not making good contact with the wire coming from the magneto. I...

I removed the muffler and checked the piston. Couldn't see any obvious damage. Removed the carb and tried to bend the needle holder by pushing down on needle and spring at same time. I probably should have removed it first and used pliers. Removed the air filter and got the engine running and...

Someone before me has removed the screen completely. I have some fine wire mesh that i could cut to fit if necessary. My understanding is it's only there to prevent sparks from flying out and catching fire. I had the muffler of previously but will look again thanks.

Hey, many thanks for reply. I did notice when putting the carb back together that the needle was not fully going down (if i pushed the top with my finger it would move down slightly). Can I bend the needle holder (not sure correct term) to apply more force from the spring through to the needle?

Hi All, I am having problems tuning a HT75 pole pruner. The saw seems to run best with H and L fully in, i.e. no fuel but still not running great. I posted link to video below showing the saw running and trying to adjust the H/L. I started the saw with both L/H fully in and first adjusted the...

This indeed was the problem. The pin holding in the float bowl was not sitting correctly in the clips allowing the float bowl to drop as shown in pics below. When I pushed the pin down into the clips it would work correctly but then when I take pressure off the pin the bowl would drop. Lucky...

If I was going to keep the mower it might be worst investing in a new carb. I will try clean the needle and if that doesnt work it will be sold for spares or repair. Appreciate your help all the same and learned a bit about small engines. (y)

Honestly, I am happy to give it a go. This is my friends old mower and I only took it on to learn how these engines work. He has bought himself a new mower and the honda in our garage runs like new after 20 years. We are going to sell this on either as running or for spares/repairs. Any advice...

Ok I changed the oil and got fresh fuel. The engine took a bit of effort to get started and it ran it for about 7 - 8 mins before running out of fuel. I noticed when I was filling it that fuel was running out of the carb so Im guessing the float is stuck or not sealing correctly. Anyhow i...

I took out the plug and pulled the engine over about 15 times. It only really splurted on the first pull and not much more came out after that. I then got the engine up and running again after a bit of effort with cleaning and changing plugs. It was not running smooth and still throwing out...

Thanks I will try that. I didn't drain all the old oil out at the time. I just took enough out to bring it down to proper level. Will change it now that i know the mower is worth saving.

*UPDATE* It's running!!! Well sort off... I swapped out the spark plug and disconnected the kill switch and got it running for about 10 seconds. It was throwing out quite a bit of black smoke. It cut out and I couldn't get it running again after this and wasnt sure if changing the spark plug...

I have seen that on another YT video where that piece popped out. The main jet goes through it into the carb cylinder. Mine seems to be intact as you can see in picture 1 above. You can see the top of the jet (white bit sticking up) behind it. I looked up the price of a new carb and would like...

Is there any test I can do to confirm it might be a coil issue. Could I remove the blade and spark plug and then attach a drill to the fly wheel and give it a spin. Should I see a relatively constant voltage on the meter?

Sorry i got that the wrong way around. I opened up the carb and confirmed the throttle/choke plate is fully open on startup from cold. I checked that the lever arm was not blocked but that seems fine. I used a block of wood (picture2) to close the throttle and tried to start but didnt make any...

@StarTech, Thanks for info. I looks like I can just change the jet assembly. I looked up the part number but it doesn't match with the numbers on the service bulletin. My engine model number is: 09P702 0142 H1...

I like to take a chance. Before I change the carb I just found this video. The choke is open on my carb when engine is cold. Is this the problem?

Thanks for replies. I took the carb out again and noticed the jet I circled above is actually open. Its a very small jet. Anyhow I put everything back and still no joy. I'm thinking to change the carb now. Has there ever been a case where the carb/jets look perfectly fine but engine only runs...

My jet assembly has the bottom part with O ring as circled below is blocked. It appears to be a be a brass stopper/plug.

Yikes! I followed this video and he split the jet assembly

Yes it has a primer bulb. Its the automatic throttle I guess. Should this be fully open or closed on start up?

How do I test the automatic choke to make sure it is working? I assume the choke is in open position when first started and closes as engine warms up?

Yes I removed the white plastic part with the jets and split that into two parts also. I could see through both jets and put wire through just to be sure. I used some WD40 for blowing through. There is another part that looks like a jet on the assembley but that appears to be blocked off. Ive...

I was talking about the push rods (opposite the valve) and rocker arm. Looking at other videos this seems to be the norn where you can move the rocker arm about. Valve clearance .004-.006. I assume that is in inch. 0.006 inch = .0.15mm by my calculations. I used a business card to adjust the...

Thanks for reply. I checked the valve clearance using the method you described and still no joy. I posted video here of trying to start it. It almost ran one time. I'm wondering if I am using the correct valve clearance as it was slightly better before I adjusted them. One other thing - are...

Hi All, I am having problems with a Husqvarna LC 146S (2016) mower with Briggs and Stratton 550E Series engine (Serial No: 14 1125 51 8372). The mower tries to start and might run for a couple of seconds on idle (low revs) and cut out sometimes with a backfire. The last thing I did was check...