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I scraped where the ground should touch so it should work now. The fuel needed replaced anyhow.

Star tech, Your diagram is correct. The sensor has the yellow wire at the lower mower part. The switch wire goes to the wire going back towards the spark plug. Trouble is, the new switch doesn't work.

The black & yellow were crossed, so hers is a new photo. Does the yellow wire just below the gx tag going into the motor operate the oil. Sensor switch,? Does the black wire going across the top of the motor go to the ignition? Rather difficult alternating black & yellow wires

It is a 240. Thanks

Hi, When the needle has no effect on rpms does it need a new needle and seat? I have seen this on other motors too. Thanks

After cleaning the brake it was moving again. Thanks for the suggestions.

According to that info it might be a belt, but a new oem drive has only had 1 seasons use. Thing is it was doing OK, then just quit so doubtful.

Runs ok including the deck but just stopped moving. Groans when pushing on drive pedals. The belts and pulleys look OK. The rod on the back is inward. ,?????? Thanks

There are different names for the screw that holds the rocker on, so I can't figure out what the torque is. Please let me know. Thanks.

Is this plate the oil breather?

Thank you.

The air filter helped but not completely. Now the govenor rocks back and forth just above low idle and in mid range with the blades disengaged. It runs normally with the blades engaged. The throttle shaft might stick once in awhile. It has some play in it.

Is this one leaking? Can rings be worn out in 750 hours?

I found a video which helps. There is oil dripping out of the lower bolt head. A little trouble getting it off.

I am unfamiliar with this valve system. To take the bolts out the rocker arms will have to come off. Apparently there is no valve adjustment on this one? Does the head just go back on with no adjustments?

Smoke is coming out of the oil filler spout. It has 725 hours on it.

It is actually a cv624s

This motor uses a lot of oil, and started all at once. I flushed out the oil breather. 2 different compression reading two diffent times. 110 and 210. This morning, 165 and 180. Which seems high for a small motor. I don't have a cylinder leak down tester yet. What could it be? Thanks

It looks like we forgot an important piece of the puzzle, a dirty air filter. I took it out and the surge seemed to disappear. The things you mentioned, carb clean, lash, sticking linkages, new gas lines, oil and filter change, and clean gas tank were already addressed. Not sure if that caused...

31p977 0575 e1 Hi, The motor runs normally for awhile. Then drops to a lower speed. After a minute it kicks up into high again. It also has a surge when the blades aren't engaged. Sometimes the blades will engage ok, and sometimes the mower has to be moving or the motor will lug down and die...

I have watched videos on throttle settings and surging. Haven't tried enlarging the jet even though it is new. The Chinese nikki carbs are junk.

I have the white block all the way forward with the lever on idle. Maybe I should work on the surge first. I just cleaned the carb.

If the cable is all the way forward, the lever won't move.

The throttle on the carb goes back to the original position when released, but doesn't snap back. I thought the surging was fixed when resetting the valves but didn't help for long. When moving the governor rod rearward I get more power.

31p977 0575 e1 Both governor springs look ok

The governor isn't stuck. The cable works ok. The choke and throttle plates moves ok with the cable. It doesn't accelerate. Stumped.

The oring, jet and plastic piece are new.

The jet won't stay put when inserted. It prevents the flat side of the plastic part from seating on the carb body. Anybody? Thanks

There was too much clearance and the push rod wasn't moving it. Not sure how that happened. A friend said to use the high end of the valve clearance because when they get hot it tightens up. It runs ok now except for surging.

The compression went from over 100 to 40#. The choke on the original carb works ok. The intake valve isn't moving when the motor is cranked. Sprayed both with penetrating oil. Didn't help.

I have tried 3 carbs after soaking in cleaner. The motor will run if spraying carb cleaner at the air intake. My cleaner is old and may not be effective.

Update After several attempted starts is getting some but not enough to keep running.

The jet is ok. Still no fuel. Put a new Chinese carb on, same thing. I changed the valve settings and torqued them at 40#

Boiled in soapy water for 1 hr, fresh water 2x. No fuel. The fuel solenoid tests ok.

Turned out 1/4" past dead center and set gaps. Tried a different plug this morning and nothing. Checked plug for fuel and it was dry. I will send the choke shaft this time.

Intake top 004 Exhaust bottom 006 Soaked Briggs carb in cleaner overnight, used wire and air to blow out Choke plate isn't sticking Greased bottom of shaft before you posted about it. Gas tank is clean, fuel flow ok Linkages same as when it was running. Fires but won't run now.

The valves were adjusted at .004". It starts on choke but runs only at slow speed for a bit then dies. Moving the linkage rods doesn't help.

I greased the bottom of the choke shaft. The valves were adjusted at .004". Checked again and the cap at the rocker arm was off. Those two bolts were tight. Cleaning the carb didn't help.

Meant white grease

The spring wasn't on right but seems ok now. It only runs at lower speed unless I add some choke. Looks like a carburetor bath tonight. The choke shaft was very tight. Some white seemed to free it up. Didn't know the shaft would swell.

Yes Even if the choke lever could go farther, the lever on the carb can't go anywhere. Maybe I put the spring on backwards?

31p977 0575 e1 The choke stays on no matter where the throttle lever is. What did I do wrong? Thanks Bob

I am embarassed to say this, but the blade engage knob was still out. This is the first type of mower I have used so I didn't notice it under the steering wheel. Sorry to waste your time. Too many safety systems for one thing. Thankyou.

I unplugged it. Wouldn't that take it out of the equation? Used too.

31p977 0575 e1 Tried to start but the battery was dead. Put a charged one in and it ran for a few minutes. Got off and it quit. It only made a knocking sound on top left corner of the motor cowling. I noticed that when getting up and down on the seat it made the knocking sound. Don't know what...

Instead of taking it apart and working on the pulley, we decided to see if just running it would loosen it up, which it did.

If I knew what I was doing, I wouldn't be asking!

I wouldn't do that over a lawn mower.

Is #13 or #31 a variable pulley?

I found a manual to adjust the speed lever. The variatir pulley might be stuck. It's isn't moving in and out.