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Just writing this for all the other amateur's out there having this issue. After pulling my hair out for the last couple months, and threatening to throw this mower out, I think I found the problem. After replacing everything, cleaning out the carbon, lapping the valves, the mower started but...

I noticed you can see the valves clearly with the spark plug out. Never noticed that. So it should be an easy check when looking for carbon buildup. First time really working on a small engine other than replacing the carb Thanks everyone.

B&S website says to decarbon when needed. It doesn't say once a year. That requires removing the head according to the web site. There are no engine manuals available on the Support site. Only Parts and Owners manuals. The fins stay clean since they are in a horizontal orientation. Ok thanks.

No. I'll have to watch that. Thanks.

Ok

Thank you. just don't want to put a lot of money into this. Not sure what a new head would cost. It seems to me RTV or JB Weld would work fine on a small engine like this.

The company that I bought my cylinder head for my Liberty said they believe it is combustion gases that can burn through aluminum. Another guy said it was just corrosion. Just trying to find out if the new gasket I bought will be sufficient or do I need to get a new head or use RTV with the...

So you're saying poor maintenance caused that divot?

Well, that wasn't an answer. Will that divot, or whatever you call it, create a problem?

Ok, another question. Will this create a problem on this small engine? Noticed it when cleaning the head. Or should I use some RTV with the head gasket? Had this on my cylinder head on my Liberty though not as pronounced. It caused a tiny leak of coolant which set a code. Had to change the...

Thanks. Sorry about the redundancy. Didn't think it went through so I wrote it again. Thinking about just getting the sticks. It's just 2 valves so they should survive. Gasket surface and chamber cleaned up real good. Used a 3M round thing, don't know what it's called, that goes on a drill...

Finally got the seal out with a long carriage bolt. Tried needle nose pliers, seal pick, bolt extractor. Bought a cheap lapping tool for a drill. Figured it should work for just 2 small valves. Didn't last 5 minutes. Tool went right through the rubber suction cups.

Thanks.

I don't know. I'm retired and have the time. Plus I don't want to spend a lot of money on an old mower I only use to mow my ditch. Easier than the weed eater.

Ok another question. The valve seal was broken. So how do I remove the old one? Thanks.

Ok but I'm guessing the low compression was from the exhaust valve having carbon on it. I don't know, I'm no mechanic but I'm not afraid to wrench either. My brother and I rebuilt my 383 Roadrunner when I was 18. Lapped (He called it grinding.) the valves and all and never had a problem. But...

Ok. Thanks.

Compression was about 33 lbs. Exhaust valve was more snug than the intake.

Ok I'll give that a go. Thank you.

Found this mower for free several years ago. It wouldn't start. Put in a new carb and it started right up. Ran it for a couple years but last year it had a hard time starting. Yesterday I ran a leak down test and it said it was only 70%. I could also hear air coming out of the exhaust. I took...

This is what the Professional manual shows:

Almost five year old cub, 356 hours. Cut grass only with this machine. Recently our cub started slowing down as you cut the grass on a slope. (This came on suddenly.) If you let the mower sit for an hour it'll go again but slow down on slopes after a short time to just barely moving. I put on...

I have a 2010 1054. The blades slow down if they even look at "tall" grass. The engine doesn't slow down though. I've triple checked the deck level and height, have been greasing everything diligently since I've owned it plus the idler pivot. I put anti-seize on that and it is free. The spindles...