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Recovered the dead mower battery! Cleaned with bicarbonate of soda solution about 10% bicarb. That reacts & cleans all the cr@p off the plates. Then filled with 12% epsom salt solution and trickle charged for 24 hours. Up to about 13V and starts the mower no problem. That's with the Epsom salt...

A bit late.....its back together with rivnuts and M4 bolts! On the mower and first cut done:

Thanks. I was planning to MIG it. Labouring the point here I know... I'm struggling to see a way to build up the weld on this rotted half without say inserting a brass round the same diameter as the bearing to weld against. I drilled the spots out with a 4mm drill. I only went thru one half...

@bertsmobile1 evening, still undecided on how/if to repair this corroded half of the pulley. Do you reckon, rather than rewelding it, I could bolt together with x3 M4 bolts?

? Luckily it came with two bottles of grit! Just got to find the other one! Worst case I find another bottle style. These Lidl Parkside tools like the sand blasting gun are one off special deals. Rarely repeated. Zero chance of spares etc.

Whoops...I cut the bottom off.

It was suggested this might happen. One school said gravity would overcome the potential issue. Another predicted it to a tee. So @tom3 wins tonight's star prize! ? Little video link: Seems all too familiar for some reason... ? The Lidl gun kept clogging. Haven't drained the air tank for a...

NSK 6203DU so nothing special. The two halves will need another dip before painting. Off to sort through the bearing box...

@bertsmobile1 you're dead on there! Just out of the acid and what I thought was resilient material around the bush is in fact the blown seal of the bearing. More obvious the other side where the seal is more intact. Pulley is indeed in two halves spot welded together. You can just see one of...

Managed to get the tensioner pulley all apart just now, some more chipping and scraping and back in the barrel for a final 24hr dip. It's salvageable. Bushed rather than a bearing again just like the plastic one. The bush sits in some resilient compound like on a suspension arm. A bit of zinc...

As aforementioned I've put the gearbox back on (pre grit blasting / painting it). As much to test it out as get SWMBO off my back! Brake assembly swapped from my mower to the new gearbox. Drives forward and back aok. 1,2,3,4,5 and reverse all there after some playing with the gear linkage rod...

Won't the mass of medium above in the "hopper" mean that the main, horizontal air flow through the bigger diameter barrel strips the medium as it drops into the barrel? One way to find out!

Just read you said sodium bicarbonate! It's washing soda crystals I have here bought for electrolysis derusting. Someone else pointed out that might not be the best blasting medium :eek: I drew up the assembled gun/adapter/pipe junction in CAD and had my lad 3D print me two halves to clamp the...

I remember the lectures as an apprentice about "gas gangrene" from dirt and grease pushed in through cuts or bodily orifices etc by compressed air ?

Off down another rabbit hole.....prompted by @bertsmobile1 ? As aforementioned I ran out of blasting media for my cheapo Lidl Parkside sandblaster. It's OK but you have to give it a shake now and then. Then the suggestion here I search out "pop bottle soda blaster" builds on YouTube. I tried...

As I've run out of blast medium here I asked and was quoted locally, £50 to soda blast his piddly little gearbox. FFS! So I approached the shot blasting and painting outfit that the first company I worked for in 1983 used to used to paint our machines. Chap down there will do me a 25kg bag...

Can I ask what kit you use? A mate is interested in DIY blasting his oak beams.

The wheel still refuses to budge. Time to admit defeat and take a trip to use the neighbours oxy I think! Took the gearbox shield out of the citric acid bath along with the bolts and gave them a quick coat of zinc and in the case of the guard some VW Brilliant Orange. What original paint...

That's a good shout. Best I have here is Denso tape.

I win! Finally got the pullies off both gearboxes! Heat with MAPP gas, rub a candle over the shaft and the wax gets sucked in. Beat it with a bfo knocking stick and punch. Repeat. Pretty sure having it all on the sturdier trestles / angle iron helped. Exactly as the lad showed on YouTube...

I'd like to get this wheel off the axle and the orange pulley off the old gearbox: I've tried MAPP gas on the pulley as per this video: No dice. I think the gearbox in the video is larger than mine. No way can I get a bit of 4x2 in there! (Pretty sure in the video he whacks his finger at...

Cheers Is the aim to remove the old stuff? Is there an ideal viscosity for the lubricant?I've got access to various oils and greases, open gear greases that behave a bit like oil etc!

Borrowing this hydraulic puller that should make short work of the pulley changeover!

Thanks. Did exactly that on the first wheel that was seized on the new axle minus the air hammer. The wheel stuck now is on my original axle and proving tougher! At the mo it's upended on saw horses and after copious amounts of penetrating oil the wheel dish is now filled with citric acid...

Old gearbox off but I sheared 3 out of the 4 bolts holding it on. I'll drill out and retap. The same bolt positions on the new gearbox I've drilled a bit bigger and tapped M10. I had to swap the gear change plates over as different lengths. Next I need to swap the pullies over as mine, the...

Looking at re tapping the bolts into the gearbox this morning. The removed bolt measures 5/16" outside diameter. Teeth per inch is 18. So from my trusty Zeus book that makes it 5/16" BSW or 5/16-18 UNC. This Peerless gearbox being American I'd go for it being UNC. (BSW have 55deg and UNC 60deg...

Well this mower is fighting me all the way! Seems that although the gearboxes are the same, my original one has tapped fixing holes into the ali gearbox. On the donor gearbox these are pilot drilled (I hope to the right size) and not tapped as the gearbox attaches a different way. And to boot...

Managed to shear one caliper bolt flush with the gearbox ? Other one sheared but enough sticking out so I can get mole grips on it. It'll move left/right a bit but won't turn. Drilling / retapping now. Off to find the easy outs. At least I can see the gearbox ID plate that's still on there...

Thanks for that. Not sure if it helps in diagnosing but I propped the rear of mine up on axle stands then took the rear o/s wheel off exposing the brake / clutch. Started her up and changed up / down through the gears. You can see the shaft speeding up/slowing down as you change gear. All looks...

Well...the repaired mower deck is good but the mower gearbox isn't well. Factory filled apparently with (mega expensive) Bentonite lubricant and then the casing sealed with "Permatex 599 Ultra Gray". It changes up/down OK but it feels like something is slipping in the gearbox, it's SO slow. Belt...

Common as muck in these parts. This one was a freebie for me. They will literally be lying abandoned pretty much in peoples gardens.

Thanks. Little finger? No, grab pulley with a gloved hand and it takes some effort with tight spots to rotate them. Westwood kindly sent me a PDF manual and spares list. I could make available here if any use?

Thanks for that. As I said at the start of the thread I think stiff pullies can't be helping much. New bearings coming tomorrow hopefully. I'll report back!

Tried starting it just now on the pull cord, to video the belt slap it but no dice. Was starting fine yesterday! Anyway, ref the deck/belt. After refitting the deck the belt was smoking like Hell on trying engaging the cutter, blade pullies weren't turning and the belt was "slapping " terribly...

Thanks. 1) Option at the front of 4 holes each side on the two prongs that come from the deck. Can't remember which holes were used before we took the deck off. 2) At the rear two horizontal rods, threaded at the end with a 1/2" AF nut on. I've raised / levelled the deck a bit and it runs...

The deck on my Westwood T1200 was a bit worse for wear. I opted just to repair a section of the rim so fab'd a channed o/of some 2mm steel: Picture below shows the repaired deck pre refitting. I've added on in pink the drive pulley on the bottom of the engine. When fitted, the...

Playing with the electrics here and I have the pcb off awaiting repair. With a digital multimeter, with the engine running & with respect to the ground lead on the battery I am measuring both AC and DC on the red coming in from Alternator 1 at Pin 6: On AC I'm measuring 7/8/9V on DC from 10...

Evening, Not been on here for a while, well a long time tbh but here goes: I have been given an "if you can repair it" Westwood T1200 petrol. I have the user manual but want to to check the "gearbox" (transaxle?) oil level. Any pointers how to do this? Pretty much from day 1 if you put it...

Hi, I have a Westwood T-1200 ride on, 12HP, electric start mower. Whenever I put it in reverse the belt jumps off, any ideas? Thanks.

Hi there, newbie here from over in the UK. I've a couple of ride on mowers both u/s at the moment. One is an MTD 548, quite an old model I think? Anyway, I use it to cut my 1/2 acre lawn. I was given the mower for nothing as it needed a few bits; battery, key switch, belt etc. I'm having a few...