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Go buy a few sizes @ 10 cents, and see which one fits when you get home.

Sorry, there should be a spec number. It will tell us which ignition it has

What engine brand, model, and serial numbers?

Water should be at the bottom.

Do not use any fuel put into any plastic container that is not approved for gasoline. You could destroy your engine.

No, I used to sell the non-safety semi-chisel, it had the yellow color code. I preferred the semi chisel myself, it stayed sharp longer.

The green/yellow designation refers to the safety features, not the chisel shape. They recently switched their stock bar/chain to a cheapo .050 ga. bar, so they may have not gotten a lot of .325 .050 chain loops yet.

Yeah, it was an oddball series that never really took off, I rarely see any around here. Hard to find parts for.

Has he removed the muffler and looked at the piston yet?

Put up a pic or two of your carb, so we know what you have.

Why do you think that the key is sheared?

Also a pic or two of the top cover of the engine?

Can you give a pic of it from the side, so we can see the side of the pulley?

I searched around for a parts list online, more results under Swisher. But no manual. Do you have any books on it?

Whoever put that on really didn't want to drive to town to buy a damn nut!!! Hammer and chisel, try to move it ccw.

You don't want one.

https://www.searspartsdirect.com/model/63c472wiog-000247/craftsman-486248392-snowblower-attachment-parts

https://www.appliancepartspros.com/agri-fab-belt-5-8-47846-ap6537970.html?msclkid=f73a06e98cdc13d7721f633267ee16a9&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Campaign%20%23%20-%20Part%20Numbers&utm_term=Agri-Fab%2047846&utm_content=001

Make sure that all of the bolts that attach the transmission to the frame are all there, if the ones in the front fall out then everything will flex the more load is on it, like going uphill. And the flexing may let the belts slip.

The clunk is the clutch engaging. You need to determine that the blades are not locked up.

Is the damage on the bottom? closer to the exhaust valve? Crud packed on the outside from the area? Same area on both sides?

Look closely at the bottom of the spindle and the bolts, etc.. Look for wear/slop.

Unplug the wires and do a reading of the two wires from the alternator. Should read @ 28 volts AC at full speed.

Put up the Briggs model numbers, so we know what you have.

Also, the gasket between the carb and the intake needs to look like this one.

I see that you said that you went back to the old fuel line, then try just richening the low mixture screw. It would be the one on the top right. You may need to pull off the plastic limiter.

They are molded at 2 different lengths.

It is a purge bulb, should return fuel to the tank, no need to fill, it pulls fresh fuel through the carb, purges the air out. The fuel lines on this model are real hard to mess up.

Looks like you need a new fuel line.

It depends on how accessible the engine is, some ztrs have them boxed in pretty tight.

Can you put up a pic and engine model number?

What is this thread about?

It may vibrate a bit more.

If it does, then we can talk about how to richen up the air/fuel mix.

Don't be alarmed that the clear fuel filter looks empty, most folks go that rabbit hole at least once. While running, apply the choke partially, and see if it clears up.

I remember back in the 1990s, I saw a couple of their mowers made by Murray, and I remember having trouble getting the parts looked up. I'll look out in the shop tomorrow for some old Murray books.

What country are you in?

Are your valves missing their little caps?

Yes.

I'll just post them here.

I just p.m.ed you my facebook page.

If you are on facebook messenger, send them to me, and I will post them here.

I don't know about phones generally, but I would say do a screenshot, then post that file.

It is pretty bad when the small engine mechanics can quit and go to work at McDonalds, and get a raise. I should have gotten into working on boat motors.

Yeah, it is pretty dang low around here.

Just out of curiousity, what are experienced small engine mechanics making hourly these days?

Are you sure that you at TDC? Or are you doing the TDC when one valve is just closing, and the other one opening?

I was just checking the room for old guys.