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See original post https://lawnmowerforum.com/threads/407777-0124e1-carburetor-float.76541/

Next time it stalls try loosening the gas cap and see if it will restart. Also could try putting a small amount of gas into the carb intake and see if it starts and dies or continues to run. Or doesn't start at all. May want to recheck the model number because it is coming back to a 1993...

Can't find any specs that used the solenoid shift starter on the SV735, But was used on one of the SV740 and 3 of the SV730.

Go back and check your spec number you are missing a digit. And Kohler OEM starters normally have the part number on the starter housing.

Looks like the float pin is still in place at the bottom of your picture. That has to come out to remove the float. If the float doesn't come out then the float valve is stuck and will need to be pried out. then you can get to the emulsion tube screws after that.

Most of the courage twins used the non solenoid shift starters. If you are looking to do the conversion to the solenoid shift starter version see this thread https://lawnmowerforum.com/threads/sv740-starter.76195/ Which has the part number for the solenoid shift starter that I used on the...

Lets start with the actual model and serial number from the tag on the mower since P510 really doesn't mean much. Also numbers from the engine may also help.

If they have them they don't even share them with the dealers or service centers.

I will give you a heads up. 3rd generation starter doesn't fix the starter issues

MTD made in China engine not Briggs as thought

I tend to steal the battery cables off of junk riders for reuse.

That looks as fun as the struck mini dozer that I worked on years ago that had a 16 hp Tecumseh engine in it.

Had a rider a few years back that had a faulty relay, and MTD tech support at corporate told me that model didn't have relays. The funny thing was this mower had 3. Had one after that were the positive battery cable had been cut while sitting on the store lot so they could steal the battery...

The truth is I don't think MTD even has wiring diagrams for their products. I suspect that the harnesses are third party and that company just builts the harnesses to MTD specs and doesn't have a set wire color schematic

Get me the model type and code from the Briggs engines. I can get into the the MTD system and find a model number or several that used that engine for a certain year that would narrow down your possible matches if the diagrams list the engine used..

Busy here also, but seems different. Not the normal simple repairs that take 30 to an hour to repair, and complete several a day. More of the less pieces but the stuff where 1-2 pieces is an all day project. Currently have a Honda ATV that is blowing black smoke after warmup. A Troybilt...

Non screw in dipstick on the norm across most brands. Honda, Kohler, Kawasaki, most of the foreign stuff sit the stick on top of the thread. Briggs is the only one I can think of that is screw in to check.

Remove the blower housing disconnect the single wire going to the coil and test for spark with either a good spark tester or a know good plug. If no spark replace coil. People that think they can test the ohms of ignition coils used on mower are just blowing smoke. And not the smoke that is...

Due to the issue with possible worn shaft starter bushings it could also lead to the starter dragging due to the armature hitting the magnets requiring extra amps to turn.

They don't give those wheel spindles away either. One shows NLA the other shows 2 in Briggs US distribution warehouses, but the pair if available would set you back $325 US dollars.

Very common starter issue. Just replaced the starter on the BIL mower a month ago because that exact same starter that you are having issues with sheared the shaft off even with the housing. Issue totally set me off so I rewired his mower for the Command solenoid shift starter...

OP hasn't been seen since May of 2015 so we don't have an answer and won't get one.

Post the model, type and code number from the engine. Numbers may be on a tag next to the air filter, but also could be stamped into the side of the block on opposite of engine as carb.

What is that electric connector behind the cable in your third picture. Most likely that is the pto safety switch connector.

Make sure the pto cable is pulling the engagement handle all the way back against the stop when disengaged. Or try pulling back on the handle while attempting to start. The pto safety switch is tucked up in a hole behind the right fender.

I suspect that when adding oil it displaces the air in the crankcase. that air escapes from the breather which it should. The breather is connect to the air filter housing which could be were the sound is coming from

Sometimes the oil spec is for a dry engine. After oil is added the first time it doesn't all drain out. My nephews stump grinder has a Briggs Vanguard 35 hp engine. The books calls for 78-80 ounces of oil. It has taken 64 ounces to refill after oil change since the day it was new, except for...

Get the actual model,type,code from the engine as well as other features of the mower such as deck size bagger or not etc. Sometimes the model number can be found by narrowing down the possible models to a year. Also the cable cover may have the part number stamped into it.

The Briggs single cylinder Intek engine such as your has a history of blowing the head gasket between the cylinder wall and the push rod cavity

Popped out, install new sealing grommet and then press the vent back into the grommet. Put a small amount of lube on the part before pressing to make installation easier. I normally use dielectric grease.

Welcome

Exhaust gasket and bolt should fix it/

Pipes should be fine, but may want to look at them a little closer. The muffler has some surface rust but otherwise looks OK also. Could possible be a leaking exhaust gasket which could cause more noise. If you look around were the pipe connects to the engine you may see evidence of carbon...

Could be a problem with the equipment wiring, or key switch is faulty or the key switch isn't grounded allowing the coils to ground.

You will also need the spec or type number to narrow down your engine variation. Should be on a tag along with the model number. Depending on year could be a metal tag affixed to the block. Or stamped into the rewind housing or a sticker on the side of the rewind housing

Best you can do is remove the unit from the mower and turn it upside down with the vent/fill plug removed and drain as much as possible. Fill within 2 inches of the top and then air purge it and then check the oil level through the fill hole. Adjust level as needed.

81 ounces of 20W50 motor oil. spin the input shaft with a drill while performing the air purge procedure before reinstalling the unit. Oil level should be around 1.5-2 inches from the top after purging.

Teflon tape not required. It will seal well enough with just being installed and tightened with the air filter base installed

Just as a side note. On some of the Tecumseh engines one of the air cleaner base mounting bolts goes into the primer cavity and if the cover is not installed or at least the bolt it won't prime. Also if the bowl gasket isn't sealing they won't prime either.

I was disappointed. Not as dark as I expected. Peaked out about 2:03 for me and by 2:07 you couldn't even tell there was an eclipse. For the welding helmet. It worked up until about 75% coverage and then the available light wouldn't trigger the sensors on the auto darken. Lucky for me I...

I have at least shade 13. And people have been using welding helmets to view eclipses for years, so why is this one so much different.

Everything from bent linkages to wear to the height control lever being bent due to people snagging it on trees when they drive by.

From the mapping it looks like I am 99.79% obscuration

Same here. I will just grab my welding helmet.

One of the diagrams shows the seal being held in with a snap ring. Probably the easiest to just remove the charge pump cover and then work on the seal replacement on the work bench. Just make sure that the square end of the cover faces the control linkage as in your picture otherwise the...

Model number was correct but looks incorrect because of the copy and paste from the Ferris parts diagram.

No parent model for the 5103443YP but the 5103443 comes back to a PK-3KCQ-FVIX-XXXX. Doesn't look like the seal is available separately from the charge pump cover unless it is part of the 70525 overhaul seal kit.

Fluid Film.

Most of the older Briggs push mower engines had a shorting clip that was situated next to the throttle pivot that shorted the ignition module when the mower was moved from full to just past idle. Will look like an knife tip sticking up through the throttle control plate.

Looks like that vent ie check valve does protrude from the top of the tank on that mower https://www.partstree.com/parts/husqvarna-576618101/ Item 17 on this diagram also shows the grommet that it pushes into item 23...