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It looks like you have confirmed that the original module is bad, and sounds like the new replacement module may also be bad. And most modules use a .010 air gap. Business card is closer to .020 which may be too wide. So try setting the gap closer and see what happens.

Either have to lap the new valves into the seats or have a seat cutter set like the neway. I have the Neway seat cutter and valve face cutters, but I probably wouldn't if it hadn't been required dealer tool for either Kohler or Tecumseh. I don't remember whch.

Something is goofy. The parts diagram shows a 3 way valve but the service manual shows a 2 way valve with the on-off lable for the valve on at least the 2025 model

Carb needs a thorough cleaning or a little more technical explanation. A carb has two fuel circuits. The idle circuit and the high speed or load circuit. When an engine is running without any load it is running on the idle circuit even at full throttle. When you engage the deck the load...

According to Briggs the molded fuel line is 791766. The carb should be a 591925 but references a part requirement that isn't used on this engine. Intake gasket is 692555. Briggs doesn't reference the air cleaner gasket but it may also come with the new carb along with the spacer gaskets...

You are in the early stages of a blown head gasket. Blown head gasket between the cylinder wall and the push rod cavity is the second most common issue with the Intek single cylinder engines.

Order a carb kit and accelerator pump kit for a Rehlko Command CV730 last week and just got around today to pulling the carb. and found that some yahoo had replaced the carb with one from a Courage twin. So different carb kit, which won't be here until middle of next week, and now I am not...

Lets start with the model number information from the engine. So we can see which of the carb styles you have. Some systems were known to have issues with the air filter backing plate warping when used with primer systems and prevents priming.

I haven't seen any crack from people trying to use the paper gaskets, but I have seen them warped at the mounting flanges so bad that the O ring won't even make contact with the head mounting surface after somebody tried to use the paper gaskets, and the mounting ears compress into the paper.

It isn't so much as a preference to what you use. It is what the manufacturer recommends. The old Peerless gear transaxles used bentonite in most cases but there was a few that used 75W90, and the Peerless hydrostats used 10W30. Hydrogear uses 20W50, but Tuff-Torq recomments synthetic 5W50...

If the existing O rings are in good shape then reinstall them. Don't remove and use the other gaskets or try to put the gaskets over the O rings. The plastic intake that is used with the O rings is not rigid enough to properly torque a normal gasket. And could create an air leak at the junction.

All of the single cylinder engines used on Generac products are rebranded engines. The V-twin is the only Generac built engine.

The disc should unscrew from the shaft collar. The shaft collar is held on by if I remember correctly 2 set screws, and then should slide off if not stuck to the shaft.

Here is the correct plug for comparison Notice the thread length difference and the washer instead of the tapered seal

If you are talking about the tan ring next to the float vavle that is the seal for the fuel solenoid on the bottom of the bowl.

The ones that irritate me are the ones where you go to pull them out the plastic comes off leaving the entire metal fuse body in the holder

Didn't happen to have the deck engaged and forgot to push down the pto switch button.

Looks like Ohio has 431, NY has 589, NC has 612, TX has 53, and UT has 214, and IA is out of stock but that is PD's version of a Amazon warehouse with robot picking and the robot AI hasn't learned to order it's own replacement stock yet. Iowa is always the first warehouse to run out of stock...

I understand your fustration, but go out into the country sometime then they are mowing side ditches with the rotary cutters and half the road will be covered with grass clippings, shredded aluminum cans, trash and broken glass bottles.

That is about the correct location for rod breakage when the rod seizes to the crank from lack of lubrication failure. And the bolts back off due to the heat effect. And signs of heat will not be overly evident if the engine was run without oil at the time of failure.

Welcome aboard. Thank you for your service. USA (1986-90) E5 Tacfire operations specialist 13C20.

This should be the belt routing

You missed the point that the rod/crank journal bearing overheating is the cause for the rod bolts loosening. The loose bolts are not the initial cause of failure. The overheating is. The dropped valve issue is also a symptom of an overheated head. If the rod bolts had been left loose or...

Part of the issue maybe the bent throttle linkage in your second picture next to the red arrow. That linkage rod should be straight. So I am sure that linkage is binding on the intake manifold. If that rod was straight the throttle would probably be at idle. LInkage needs straightened or...

Were common on the 80-90's model year riders especially with the 2 speed rear ends. Back when they had actual gear transmissions 3 speed + reverse, or in the case of the 2 speed rear ends were sold as 6F+2R and not the variable speed drives that MTD uses.

This engine used lost foam casting technology. The melted aluminum would dissolve the foam and would cast the upper half of the crankcase down the middle of the crankshaft bearing surfaces. So the upper half of the crankcase, cylinders and heads were cast as one piece. The cylinders were...

On early versions of the MTD mow in reverse it would become inoperable if the headlights were burned out or disconnected.

Never saw the starter issues on the singles. The twins are were the starter issues are. But that is due to using a starter without a supported shaft on an engine without ACR. Later Courage twins had ACR camshafts. And that engine is still in use but is now called the 7000 series. And I...

The rod cap bolts being loose was a symptom not the cause of the failure. Unless the engine failed within the first few hours the rod bolts were not the cause. I have seen loose rod bolts from the factory. They don't normally survive past 5 hours. And the broken valve issue is due to head...

Yep, they are still trying to beat the SV singles to death because of a few engines that had mistorqued top cover bolts, without locktite, and a few that broke the counterweight alignment rod which would break the bottom of the block dumping the oil. Later versions had gone 700-1000 hours...

Don't see that configuration anymore. From the bottom of the transmission pulley start the belt and go to the left side of the engine pulley with a 1/4 clockwise twist. around the engine pulley and the V idler to the right of the engine pulley. then 1/4 counterclockwise twist to under the...

Yes, but the valves need to be properly set within tolerance to make the final decision if the compression release has failed. But don't wait too long to find out, because Briggs has a common issue of backordering the camshaft, and some of the warehouses are getting low on inventory.

Red and tacky is a #2 NGLI grease. And is recommended for high speed and wheel bearings.

Here you go part number 721221 https://www.partstree.com/parts/snapper-721221/ item 17 on this diagram https://www.partstree.com/models/lt-23420-2690945-snapper-lt125-series-42-lawn-tractor-23hp/lift-group-manual-9/

I wouldn't really call those gouges. More like deep scratches, and like you I have seen mowers run with far worse cylinders. I agree fix the valve issue and install new head gasket and see what happens.

For us to look up the part number we will need the actual model number of the mower from the model/serial number tag.

From the looks of the intake valve and cylinder walls, there is a high amount of dirt ingestion causing excessive wear The intake valve covered in burnt oil suggest that it is pulling in oil from the breather and burning it. The intake valve seat and valve face are showing wear which could...

Looks like incorrect choke return spring, and the thermochoke control lever is rotated away from the choke hold open tab. So the bimetal choke control may also be damaged.

And how many of the old techs could have a customer walk into the shop and say I need this part for my 5 hp Briggs and you could go to the shelf and pick up the part without model numbers.

Doesn't appear to be any dealers in Iowa that have both Landmaster and Briggs status. I wish I was closer since I am Landmaster service center and Briggs dealer.

If it starts and runs fine after using starting fluid I would think the camshaft would be fine. But not starting without fluid makes me lean toward either primer not working or choke not closing properly.

First thought is hole in fuel line leaking gas and/or sucking air into the line. Second thought is to check the oil to make sure it isn't leaking into the crankcase from a faulty fuel pump. I would think if it was burning all that extra fuel it would be running rough and blowing lots of black...

Both Partstree and my Husqvarna distributor show both the cable and the rear drive unit in stock. Hope you are sitting down and really think about if it is worth fixing. Maybe able to purchase a new mower or a good down payment on a new push mower. Rear drive unit is $159 and the cable is...

If you are seeing cracks at the axle mounting flanges on the frame that normally means that the front transaxle support has either broken, broken the bolts off in the front of the tranny, or they have just fell out.

My first thought would be head gasket. But also wouldn't overlook a possible valve cover gasket leaking onto the exhaust. Make sure the oil level is correct and not overfilled and/or smells like gas. Blue normally means burning oil. Gas would give you black smoke.

No shifter, this is a foot controlled hydrostat. and from the diagram can't determine real well where is actually connected. But appears to be located on or close to the hydrostat direction control on the side of the transaxle

Flywheel key sheared, camshaft not properly times to crankshaft, points not set correctly, and in some cases reuse of head bolts can all be possible issues.

Issue is with the operator presence switch, or the associated wiring circuit.

Its item 24 on this diagram. Located behind the direction control on the right side of the transaxle https://www.partstree.com/models/13ax614g701-yard-man-lawn-tractor-2004/drive-controls-wheels-rear-2/ Also check the wire for bad spots that could be grounding out

My guess would be either there is a bad/burnt spot in the belt which is narrower than the rest of the belt, or something stuck in the groove of one of the spindle V pulleys.