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The black and grey wires from the old engine can be connected to the corresponding grey and black in the double connector on the new engine. The grey is battery power to the fuel solenoid on the carb and will be powered with the key in the on and start positions. The black is the kill wire for...

Make sure the exhaust port isn't been clogged with the remains of critters or carbon buildup. A plugged exhaust will cause backpressure and popping out the intake.

Star I agree that this industry is a collision course to a full crash and burn. OEM's are slow walking out of business. Like I have said before I am just buying my time until retirement. And I suspect I won't have to leave the business. I feel that over the next few short years all dealer...

It looks like that fuel tank is under the seat so may have to remove the seat and rear fender assemblies to get to the top of the tank to replace the nipple if replaceable. The hard starting is most typically due to the choke not closing all the way. Put the throttle control in choke...

Which is also showing NLA.

See @Forest#2 in post number for answer to question. Even highlighted in a different color.

Replacement crankshaft is 797076 which is currently on the Briggs distributor backorder list. The shortblock and replacement engine have been discontinued. Funny thing is I just dealt with trying to find a replacement engine for another independent dealer for this exact engine about 2 weeks ago.

There should be a short hose attached to that nipple on the tranny that just points downward to act as a vent. Doesn't look like that hose have been in place for some time. There is also another hose that goes from a nipple on the air filter housing to a connector on the side of the engine...

Lets start with the actual model and spec number from the engine tag so we can see what setup you have. Also the model number info from the tag under the seat will allow us to see the rest of the system. Most likely that hose goes from a nipple on the air cleaner base to either the top of the...

Head bolt torque is 220 in/lb. I usually do a three step process.

The reason that there is only one wire to those fuses is the heavy red wire in the middle is on a 3 bridge connector that feeds the fuse above and below it. I would pull the fuses to make sure the terminals are not corroded.

Make sure the plastic intake cross tube isn't broke or cracked.

You can add a shutoff to an engine with a fuel pump.. Not a problem. And leaving the carb dry is still good philosophy. I recommend adding something like Startron or other fuel stabilizer prior to shutdown and to help prevent the little bit of fuel left in the carb going bad while setting. I...

First thing I would check is the outlet to the exhaust. Something may of built a nest in in obstruction the outlet. Also could be carbon buildup on the exhaust screen which would allow it to start and idle but not rev up.

The click maybe the starter solenoid not completely pulling in the bendix to engage the flywheel. My nephews starter on his 35 Vanguard on his stump grinder does the same thing on occasion since new and he is pushing 700 hours. The first start attempt doesn't allow the starter to fully engage...

I have had 2-3 of those come into the shop over the years. And they can be a pain. Also had one with diesel fuel in the tank.

The first picture is not really a scratch it is the discoloration of the cylinder wall that lines up with the ring gap. The brown spot may just be oil sitting on top of the piston.

The answer is in post 13

The history on this saw is I sold it new to a neigbor customer that burns firewood for heat. This saw is run every year mostly in the fall like now, but does get used over the rest of the year for storm cleanup and various tree jobs. The saw presented to the shop with not running properly, and...

Looks like the link is part of the shaft https://www.partstree.com/parts/kawasaki-16041-7021/

Most of the ones that I have seen and used have a 5-7 year life expectancy before the battery dies. The hour meter on my nephews stump grinder counted hours by key on battery voltage but the display was internal battery maintained. It died a couple years ago after 8 years with roughly 450...

Kohler is sit on top of the threads to check not screw on to check. Some of the Kohlers have push in dipsticks and those are pushed in to check.

What I am starting to see if the aftermarket parts suppliers are charging the dealers list price for their aftermarket parts and then doubling the price over retail. Had a case of a JD idler pulley that the aftermarket folks wanted $34 cost and $66 retail for a part from the JD dealer sells...

Was looking earlier and my Kohler distributor sells the 25 357 64-S synthetic blend which replaced the 25 357 05-S Dino which for the most part is NLA...Dealer cost is $60/case and retails for $120/case. Now here is the catch. Unless you buy a pallet of 84 cases or the dealer orders his oil...

What engine are you working on that they are charging those prices. Just asking to determine what list is compared to what they are charging. And as far as oil prices. There maybe more to that story than appears on the surface. Some OEM distributors don't consider lubes on their standard...

Briggs is screw in to check. Kawasaki, Kohler, Honda, Tecumseh are sit on top of threads to check. A lot of Kawasaki dipsticks say do not screw in to check. Imprinted into the plastic dipstick.

Well it has been 7 years since they stopped producing Subaru engines. But you are right. Any running Subaru engines that need repair at a future date are SOL.

Correct. My distribution told me something similar a few months ago. Also that most parts are already gone, and there is only 1 person left working tech support and parts supply and that ends at the of the year.

Going from the old GX twin series to the new GX twin series is a little more complicated due to Honda doing a redesign a few years back. The ignition when from a open to run to closed to run which means the ignition modules have to be grounded to spark, which requires a different key switch and...

11060-7008 is supposed to be the engine sump gasket. No hint of sump O rings. And the 11061-1497 is coming back to a 2017 Kawasaki motorcycle.

Is that hole in the muffler larger than the pipe diameter. There is no gasket between the pipe and the muffler but the pipe OD should be the same size as the muffler inlet ID with a loose slip fit.

What I see is damage to the exhaust valve seat and a broken valve. Also damage to the head of the intake valve with the possibility of the intake valve being bent. Also there are holes in the piston with the potential of the rod being bent. So I would with any potential of doing proper repair...

I don't know about the stalk part of the pulley mount but that part just above the bolt head with the U shaped groove is the inner race for the destroyed bearing. That part has to come off to replace the pulley.

She's done.:mad:

Rare Rare, but not as rare as I would like.

Did the valve put a hole in the top of the piston. Did it damage the valve, valve seat, or valve guide.

Some of that parts changer mentality is due to OEM's going to component changing ie, Starter spring breaks and the only way to get the starter spring is to replace the complete starter with blower housing. Or you have a carb issue but the cost of the repair kit is 2/3 or in some cases exceeds...

They best I can determine is the spark advance chip goes south and throws the timing off to the point it won't run.

Your symptom is due to the combination of the axle pivoting in the mount, the wheel spindle bushing worn, the slack in the sector gear, and the drag links/tie rods are bent. And in some cases you can throw in a bent frame.

Alright guys the cause of failure is a faulty ignition module. Welcome to the world of digital spark advance with integrated rev limiter ignition. So try to diagnose a faulty ignition without loosing spark. Symptom mimics a chainsaw or trimmer that is running out of fuel in the tank. First...

Chainsaw 2 stroke

I come across this issue enough that I have to keep several different parts numbers of this item in stock for the various models. I come across this issue on Husqvarna and Stihl and helped another shop diagnose this issue on a Echo a few months ago.

@Rivets @slomo @Scrubcadet10 Any of you guys have any thoughts before I reveal the answer.

I suspect that you are looking at the screen over the short fuel pickup Pull off the screen and there is a jet under there that is most likely clogged.

Impulse setup is below the intake with a horn that sticks off the bottom of the carb Other end connects to the crankcase. Haven't had issue with this style of saw with split or damaged pulse lines or intake tubes. The impulse line looks similar in material to molded fuel lines used on other...

@StarTech Good consideration but not that complicated. This thing acts like it is running out of fuel but it isn't a fuel problem.

Lets see if you guys can figure this one out. New NGK BPMR7A spark plug, new OEM fuel filter. Saw starts after about 4 pulls cold and runs a few seconds and bogs down and dies and takes another 4 pulls to restart. Have checked internal carb screen, checked carb adjustment, and checks fuel...

Oiling the pre-cleaner is fine if done properly. The problem is the instructions basically set up a situation that leaves way too much oil in the filter. The entire filter shouldn't take more than a Tablespoon of oil. So if the precleaner is saturated would need to basically squeeze it out...

It would help if you would of given us the engine information. Is this a Briggs, Kohler, Kawasaki, Honda or a 4 cylinder ford. Could also be an issue with the electric pto clattering on shutdown.

Will need the model-type-code from the OHV cover to confirm. Most take the 84001507 but there are a few variable part numbers mixed in.