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https://engines.honda.com/support-and-service/recalls-updates Try putting your model and serial number in here. It should tell you one way or another.

Is it under warranty? Honda has had a big recall on those because of camshaft failure. A honda dealer would be able to take care of it.

I used to be a dealer for those. Great trimmers especially. Almost every one we sold never came in for repairs. So much better than whats out there today.

Alot of the old murray diagrams never made it online. I still have my old micro films with break downs but idk how to get them on here for you. Maybe try to reach out to a local shop in your area.

Try resetting the vari pulley like i explained earlier it usually fixes that issue

Your float should sit level with the carb body. I believe the needle and seat kit is a 398188 im pretty sure. The kits only like 5 bucks

Yup swollen red seat. Floats probably not level id assume.

Have you tried resetting the position of the vari pulley? That usually needs to be done if you replace the belts, or the machine stalls while moving, runs out of gas. Put the machine on a flat level spot so it wont roll away. Then get on it start it up. Make sure your shifter is in neutral. Then...

Fuel pump possibly?

More than likely it is still the Chinese carb. 95 percent of those do not run right

Id price a carb assembly. Ive gotten some honda original carbs for alot of the gcv engines for under 30 dollars. I only try rebuilding them if the new oem is crazy expensive.

I would pull the valve covers for sure. Those briggs twins are know for having the rods bend and sometimes they fall into the engine block. For some reason alot of them will run smooth on one cylinder until they get under a load.

Yes if you connect the two wires it should jump it most of the time. I have seen a few machines that that may not work on.

May need a jumper wire

Almost all single cylinders have issues do to them mostly being made in china. I see less issues with both briggs and kohler twins but i usually recommend a kawasaki.

Ok so you could look too see if the choke is closing completely too.

The second one with the briggs engine may not be priming right. Remove the air filter and look in the throat with a flashlight. When you prime it you should get a stream of fuel coming up the tube. If you dont have one you can try removing the filter box and doubling up on the gasket. Sometimes...

I have found if you keep a little good gas in them and try to run them every three months or so seems to work best. The fuel in the bowl goes bad alot faster than the stuff in the tank. As for extra gas storage i kind of think the same way. Keep it for three months or so then dump it in your car...

Yes, it is definitely upside down. You can use a standard business card for the air gap it is not that crucial

The main brass jet is probably clogged. It screws in to the card from where the bowl nut goes.

Could you possibly bend the tab away from the brake pad side to give enough clearance or maybe mount the tab to the backside instead? Just a thought.

Yes the top view was a better pic. I just assumed because it looked similar to the old toro microswitches. I will try looking it back up and see whats going on

I think that is needed if your machine doesnt have an hour meter.

It may be a microswitch. If so the tab would be pushed down when starting. I would check that your auto choke system is working correctly

The spot thats touching on the flywheel is the engine brake. The pad on it is not metal so it will not ground out there.

I have tried doing this a couple times and unfortunately i have not been able to get it succesful. Those damn plastic ones warp like crazy and power distributors shows them on back order.

Read this before adding and the seal number is gt41857-b

If the starter is original i would try replacing it. the new kohler original will look different. The drive will lookmore like a briggs starter. I change a ton of those.

There should be a tag with a part number on the case somewhere

Id drain some fuel into a glass jar and let it sit sealed for about 45 mins to see if any water settles.

Going by your model number that machine uses a plastic general transmission. I have spoke to them before about fluid for those and was told there is no fill. They also told me that the fluid that had leaked out wouldnt be enough to cause an issue but idk if I buy it. Those transmissions dont do...

I would look around and see if anyone near you has a waste oil furnace. My town highway department does and takes all my old oil, gas, etc.

That usually happens when the front transaxle bracket comes loose or the bolts break in the case. Make sure to check that before repairing.

It appears to use a woodruff style key. If so then it would not stick out at all and sometimes you need to remove the flywheel to check the key itself.

What are you looking for? I still have all my old micro film cards if I can help.

On most machines the pto clutch and engine pulley do need to be removed to replace drive belt.

I see customers install batteries wrong all the time. Some people don't know they make those batteries with the posts on either side. I've seen briggs intek motors actually turn the starter the opposite direction when hooked up backwards haha.

I would not try to shift on the go. Not a good idea.

Thats not a bad tractor at all for cutting grass. Im up in New England and i have seen guys have trouble with the transmission in those and it seems its only the ones that plow with them. They seem to hold up better with the snowblower because your not puching the weight rather moving it out of...

I thought i saw a video of chickanic closing as well.

I hear that guys. Im in massachussettes and at 35 yrs old im the youngest guy around here. Its a shame. Id love to find a young guy to train.

Id stay away from anything simplicity. They are owned buy Briggs and stratton and from what i heard they are either selling the line or eliminating it. they are doin the same with snapper too.

That tractor was made by husqvarna originally. So a husqvarna, poulan pro, or even some ariens decks will fit it. I also believe you can use a 42'' or 46" as long as they both use a manual pto. (cable engaged)

StarTech is probably right. I wont even replace those carbs anymore with out replacing the steel line.

You may need to try to reset the vari pulley. To do so you need to be on flat ground. get on the tractor and start it up. While machine is running at full throttle you will need to put your shifter in neutral. Once in neutral release your brake pedal and make sure it come all the way back. (if...

They have had alot of issues with those transaxles and its not just craftsman. Ariens, John deere and Husqvarna have used those. I believe the john deere d105 or d125 use a plastic GT transaxle and they have recalled a ton of them. I have also seen that alot of the parts to rebuild them are hard...

I would try cutting the plunger off the original fuel solenoid and trying the original arb back on. It may leak afterward but you can always install a shutoff valve.

Tell me about it. I have parts back ordered from pd but yet I can buy then from "the Briggs and Stratton store" on amazon for full price. they do not care about the dealers.

Idk where you are from but my briggs distributor in castleton ny, Power Distributors has that in stock for about 40 bucks.

Your carb looks like it could be aftermarket like from amazon. An original briggs carb for that model would not use a brass seat.