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remove plug, does it spin. do valves go up and down when turning over engine?

innertube??? also clean all rust before inserting.

I do not have personal experience, but if the tensioner is fully out, then you can find shorter belts on the internet. They make them in many sizes not just 60 and 48 inches. Gotta exist. good luck.

I ALWAYS run gas engines dry. I clean the tank (hot water & soap ) and dry on the shop counter, then reinstall. Blow out lines. I really like the fogging idea. Used it on my boats. If you are ANAL LIKE ME, ROTATE THE PISTON to TOP to close valves. Prevents outside air from entering chamber...

Easy to machine a bushing if you have a lathe. I do not have one, so cannot volunteer.

Incomplete history. Did it run well before changing the plug??? Or was this sitting for 5-10 years, then new plug and does not run. I do not know what the status was before you started this thread. When was the last time you used this?, and were you happy with it. Was it run dry, and stored in a...

Since I assume it started and ran OK before this all happened. Since you did NOT touch the engine, I must assume either a belt problem, or possibly oil and hydro lock issue, with the latter unlikely. This is 100% based on your initial statement. Yes I would be frustrated too. Good luck. I cannot...

no cold will hurt battery. charge, bring in, charge again in 2 months

compression test results? remove both plugs, choke off, throttle wide open, then get me a reading.

IMPROVEMENT: add cuttoff valve, and run dry when putting away even for a few days. I assume you have a gas filter also already in-place.

for the record, I use this item. I am NOT an expert but think this helps. This model is retired, but they still make similar devices.

I am not certain this is a blade thing. This started recently and was not caused by chainging to a new blade group. Or was it? Thinking outside the box.

did not know a fine layer would do that. Thanks!

Thanks for the lesson. I had assumed that you at least had reverse blown the old filter as a first comment suggested. OK we all learned. cheap things first then parts.

I am NOT an expert, but concerned running modern refrigerators, washers and such and such with expensive circuit boards with generators. One option which is not cheap is to use a device which cleans up the power to 120vac 60Hz. I use such a device on my expensive tv connected to city power. I...

I also doubt you have 65 lbs on all 4. Sounds suspecious.

agree with M above. do not buy parts. cap and hoses BEFORE taking carb apart. easy things first.

I use this and love it. cheap and useful around home. hope picture comes thru. gived volts hertz amps consumed by device. just push button, no scrolling functions

Buy yourself a cheap battery tester. Has saved my time so many times. Once running, please check battery voltage to make certain battery is charging at 13-14VDC . If charging you may have a drain when mower is off draining your battery to 0VDC and killing battery. I would put a Volt meter on...

Every day before starting, I check the oil and top off the gas. I check the oil because I do not know if "something" happened we did not see the day before. I check and top the gas because I do not want to stop in the field somewhere. Just simple procedure. Never hurts to top off tires once in a...

Batteries do not like the cold. Period. I agree charge to full in barn or outside, remove, and place in home. Since you are not charging in home, your battery will not generate gasses and be safe. (2 cents). I would never leave it outside in cold winter, it will shorten the life.

This may help, or confuse the issue. Once engine is running, do you get AC voltage from AC wires? Then do you get DC voltage from DC wires? I agree ground is suspicious and needs be confirmed. I would charge the battery. Measure battery voltage before starting engine and record it. I would then...

TRUE. I have a battery tester 15-20$) and used it for cars , tractors, and everything else. rules out issues quickly. A battery can have 13 volts but unable to crank out 300 amps for a lawnmower. So, own a tester, cheap and small.

did you try a battery jumper pack to rule out old low amperage battery. Did you bypass old cables and go directly to engine for ground, and starter for positive connection? I have always owned a battery tester to verify amperage for "other peoples good batteries".

Using an impact with 750 ft lbs is way overkill. I suspect it should be less than 125 lbs, but this is a guess. Impact great for taking off, but not putting on.

I want it to work. and work, and work. Parts should not break, or need replacing for 5 years. Parts should be reasonably priced and common, and not needed as it does not break down. I expect to do good reliable maintenance. I want to be able to LUBRICATE everything that moves, including pulleys...

I cannot assume you clean the deck and let it dry before re0use. After doing the above boys, clean under deck, let dry, and only cut when dry. Are blades wrong or dull?

It is a shame you bought all those parts, at least i hope you saved the old ones. Sure, you have a fuel problem of gas starvation under load. Hope cleaning and not replacing fixed it. I assume new fresh gas and that hoses and old gas were removed and hoses blown out so that gas is not a...

Thank you for the picture. Was helpful in understanding problem. Maybe front blade dull?

thanks for being honest about the dirty watery fuel.

This is a great forum guys, please stay friendly and understanding. Now for my lecture, please use clean gas, drain equipment at end of season, clean tank and lines and carb and everything for the next season. I like starting knowing everything was put away 100% ready for next crop season. No...

If everything is clean and no extra stuff wrapped around, I would not do more. I would be concerned if anything chewed up the oil seal, so check and monitor the motor oil religiously. No skimping on this. Sounds like you are fine.

I have electric mower but only 5,000 sq ft. I could not imagine using electric for 3 times or 15,000 sq ft lawn. I would need 4 - 40 volt batteries for such a job, and in truth, it has not much torque. I doubt it would last for 20 years, as a matter, i would bet it fails before 20 years. Yes...

I use gas pump and mix my own. Once done sawing, I drain the saw, turn over and drain tank, then run dry dry. No problems as ethanol gas is gone when I am done using saw. If pre-mix is "old" I use in my older car/truck and get a new batch. I cannot get ethanol free but would if I could.

quality and long life.

if your soil is way off chemically, a paid for company will take your money and never apply the right chemicals to fix chemistry. Gotta fix it, then seed.

after cleaning or replacing plug, did you chjeck oil before pulling it. Then try 2 cycle gas and or ether to determine of combustion is there. If runs for few seconds, then is fuel related. remove ALL ALL old fuel and try clean fresh fuel. does gas flow down line to carb? then is carb issue and...

If it worked and you did muck the internals, then the valves are opening and closing properly as it worked before. I doubt you have a compression issue, but if you have or can borrow a compression meter, now is the time to use it. next. SPARK: Does your spark meter spark or not? next GAS - is...

sounds like keep an eye on it after every use. regular maintenance and in your case, a watchful eye. simple as probably a 3/8 square bolt to remove and inspect/fill. less than 5 minutes after 1st time.

Maybe a bad load of gas? Since it ran fine in the past with the "old" plug, what changed was gas. If true, drain lines, carb, tank and get a new load of gas.

dirty contacts somewhere.

For everyone, battery cables go BAD on the INSIDE. I see this more with cars and acid splash where the inside (covered with shielding) is hollow or gone. I would test the cable before replacing it. Hate to buy things not needed.

If you overfill with NEW OIL, and drain some out, the oil is REUSABLE. Don't overfill, and if you do, save it for next time. Also, do it more than every 4 years. Your 2012 mower is better than what you can buy today, so be good to it.

Drain, remove, wash with hot soap and water, then dry. Reverse blow out fuel filter and or change as needed. Make certain you re-install in same direction so use phone to take picture before disassembly. Blow out gas hose/lines to be clean and empty including line from fuel pump to carb. Get...

I wonder if it is overheating. It is cold at first, then warms up pretty quickly so I would expect failure sooner, but if grass in the shroud is preventing cooling, coils and such will overheat. It may be fuel delivery associated. I would reverse blow out the fuel filter, and test the fuel pump...

Best diagnostic thread in a while. Thanks to all people who added thoughts.

I have had female-female connectors in the past. Inside diameter uncertain. They exist.

You did not confirm it was the solenoid. You thought it was. Get more fuses, wait till it happens again, then run the experiment that the solenoid is bad. Is it really?

I like ruling out possibilities. I would check the valves as suggested above. I would BLOW OUT OLD GAS AND TANK and start aclean. Just reverse blow fuel filter, do not change again. Blow out line from carb to pump, and test pump by taking output hose and dumping fuel into container to see if...

UPDATE - FIXED - kinda I replaced the belt with a NEW MTD OEM but no fix. I then did this mod (see image) to "hold" the lever so that I could steer and control the speed at the same time. Since I doubt it is cable stretch, I am baffled, but this works. THANKS TO EVERYBODY who had suggestions.