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You know every shade tree mechanic “knows” bearing companies skimp on grease. Or maybe NTN, Timken, SKF, NSK, etc know more about their product than you? They are not going to save 0.1% to make their products fail early just to sell replacements, their reputation depends on long service life...

Cheapest solution would be to sell the 60” and use the funds to buy something smaller. Or learn to use the foot pedal to lift the deck momentarily.

About 30 years ago I had a 4.5 or 5 hp Kawasaki with that problem. Every 3 years it would quit running. Plug would spark outside the combustion chamber so I initially thought it not the problem. After cleaning the spotless carburetor (no luck) tried a new NGK spark plug and it fired right up...

A split-beam torque wrench will not drift if left set. No more than the bending beam Craftsman pictured.

If buying new I recommend a 42” Bad Boy with Kawasaki engine. Some box stores carry Bad Boy with B&S engines. I recommend against. I don’t think a 42” ZTR will be too big for 1/2 acre if you can get through gates.

The steel tube backbone models only. Not the new stamped steel chassis. Not really. IIRC RER decks start at 30”.

The biggest problem with those is how users will over torque the plastic 10mm drain thing. The way it is designed, tighter will not seal any better than simply closed.

Contact a certified Kawasaki repair shop. There was a recall on a production lot for improperly cut threads on drain. Kawasaki replaced customer’s lower crankcase casting where the drain is located. No HeliCoil hacks. Job done right. If yours is one of the bad lot you should get a free repair...

Split beam torque wrenches do not have to be dialed back to zero. There is no benefit unless it makes you sleep better. Clicks when the set torque has been reached.

Yes, that is a flex beam. A split beam is click-to-torque value.

Split beam is torque to click.

My go-to torque wrenches are an old Craftsman flex beam, and a couple modern Tekton split beam. The split beam is wonderful in that it can be put away with a torque still dialed in. It doesn’t preload a spring.

You don’t know ethyl and ethanol are different things? Ethyl gasoline refers to tetraethyl lead, an octane improver. Also known as leaded gasoline. I doubt you can buy this stuff from anyplace other than an airport or VP Racing Fuels.

My initial thought is that warranties on mowers from box stores are hit and miss because a 3rd party is expected to do the service. You are low priority if you didn’t purchase from the servicing dealer.

So you never questioned the orthodoxy you read on the internet claiming the flap around the perimeter holes was to hold oil in the filter between starts? And never noticed oil running out of a used filter laying on it's side? Are you here to only reafirm everything you have "learned" elsewhere...

As stated, Subaru OE filter (and Wix) is empty by the time I get around to removing from hot engine, 5 minutes. Avalon filter was bone dry overnight cold. The Avalon was particularly interesting because it made a huge mess when removed hot. 45° angle spilled oil on hot manifold and active motor...

Lay your old filter on its side. Come back in an hour and rethink your 50 year old belief. The oil will have drained out through your beloved anti-drainback valve. The surface between the punched perimeter holes and valve flap is too crude to form a perfect seal. It isn’t intended to. Or...

Take the filter off cold engine. When you warm it up all you do is fill the filter with oil. “Anti drainback valves” leak everything out in a short time. They exist to prevent the “water hammer” effect from back flushing crud out of the filter when the oil pump suddenly stops when the engine stops.

If the OP wants to use longer blades then the correct answer is, “will it fit?” No detriment if longer blades fit. How much clearance to the deck? How much clearance between center blade and blades to either side? 3 x 24-1/8” has almost no overlap on a 72” deck. BB has spec’ed and shipped...

Come now! Don’t you know You Get What You Pay For? Life is so simple when one doesn’t question higher and ever higher prices. Just makes the product better! The higher the price the better it must be, right? People wouldn’t pay more if it wasn’t better! Or maybe that is just it? One should not...

Use cheap green dishwashing detergent and water. Your steel rims are going to rust eventually no matter what. Don't use a lot of detergent, I'm thinking a spot the size of a half dollar in the bottom of a soup bowl. Then fill bowl 3/4 with water. Dishwashing detergent gets sticky when it drys...

Bearings come in standard sizes. Buy a set of quality bearings and don't over tighten.

You are thinking (rightly) of the old welded tube Snapper. The stamped steel chassis Snapper is not worthy of the name.

All zero-turns.

"Too sharp" will soon become "butter knife sharp". I'm not going to worry about it, but am not going to break out the whetstone to be able to shave with my mower blades.

Sometimes you simply have to try it to know which one or the other.

If it fits in the space available, has same shaft diameter, length, and fittings, then put whatever you have handy on the mower. I keep thinking I'd like to mount a Harley-Davidson engine on mower. Tractor-style vertical exhausts...

I know what that means. It means his paper filter is stopping a lot of dirt from getting in but with that much dirt some gets through. Also means he is not using the foam prefilter, which he badly needs. Another motorcycle trick: on dirtbikes most use a foam air filter. For a prefilter put...

Grease the junction between air filter and housing to "glue" the seam and possibly catch stuff if an opening appears. Years ago I put a "fingerprint" of grease inside the clean side of a motorcycle intake wearing a K&N air filter. Checked a couple weeks later to find the fingerprint full of...

Fumoto makes a wonderful oil drain valve for most every application. My Kawasaki came with a plastic petcock with 10mm plastic ”nut” to open. A nipple for 1/2” vinyl hose exits at right angle. This assembly is much cursed for the o-ring leaking but I think if not closed too tight and crushed it...

How do you know a bad battery message is being sent?

Buy a new mower! Get Tweels! No problem is too trivial to solve with money!

Find the contactor that went "clack" and determine if it is being driven to "clack" or not. If not then scratch your head, if being driven then go about finding a replacement contactor.

You know of a glue that sticks to steel rims? There are specific bead sealer products for sale. "Glue" by any other name. Can sometimes band-aid cracking or torn tire beads.

Voltage under load is the critical parameter. Voltage-no-load is a good starting point but is not a complete answer.

It would seem your battery went bad during the winter, Lithium batteries do not like to be frozen.

Oh, I didn't know The Government tells Lowes and Home Depot what to do! They still have ICE mowers? Haven't doubled the prices due to demand? Perhaps the demand isn't there? So one political party believes in making everyone do as they say? Then stop voting for them. Oh, we did stop voting for...

You have a problem with something no one here has proposed or supported, yet you keep bringing it up.

Apparently that went over your head. Somehow 50 years ago 3.5hp was thought to be sufficient and somehow it worked. You are 10 years behind in your claims of low powered battery mowers.

Who is forcing you to do something? If you live in California then you asked for it and deserve it. There are at least 10,000 ICE mowers out there for every electric so deals as you describe are more common. But also undermines your claim of ICE superiority by the fact someone is willing to...

You are so far behind the times. Don't believe everything you read, and don't read everything you believe. My transition to an EV mower was accidental. Was given a 21" EGo SP to try in 2016. Weighed much less than the Snapper Ninja 21" SP, much quieter, and therefore much easier to mow my lawn...

I remember when a 3-1/2 HP B&S engine on a 22" lawnmower was the norm. Many had 3 HP and even 2-1/2 HP. Think my Grandfather's reel mower had a 1-1/2 HP with an oil bath air filter. And then those who Don't Know History rant about battery electric mowers being underpowered? There have been some...

14 years is a good run. Rule of thumb says 10 years on a coin cell. When the time comes use a paint pen to write the last hour reading you remember on the panel near to the meter, and replace meter with a new one. A “permanent” Sharpie will fade. Paint pens are similar but harder to find.

Coin cells are usually lithium not silver. The better longest lasting coin cells are silver, you have to shop for silver if that is what you want. Many sizes are available either way.

I'm sorry but the highlighted passage above suggests this is way beyond your understanding of engines. But it is good that you are thinking of such things. Growth doesn't come without such thinking. If you really want diesel then search for a diesel engine to replace what you have. I don't...

If anything I would have thought the Slime would prevent the other product from working. Slime is wet and stays wet. I have changed tires which were treated with Slime. Didn't find it to be the mess others claim to have experienced. Should know one is dealing with Slime after breaking the first...

You put the other product in a tire that already had Slime in it?

Time to either buy a new tire or put Slime in the tire you have. Slime is high viscosity and will seep very slowly through wherever your leak is located. You may never see Slime on the outside of the tire. It may totally fix your leak.

The hour meter battery is not charged by running the engine.

How do you prime it? The store-bought extractors suck oil out, starting with a hose full of air. Some automobile dip stick tubes are routed to the very bottom of the crankcase pan to facilitate oil extraction. Mercedes-Benz is one I have direct experience with. The large Harbor Freight oil...