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Thanks very much for the find Slomo. Its the plastic choke lever. I've never heard of this site before but its cheap enough that I'll probably give them a try. Thanks again to both of you, its truly appreciated.

Its smoother.... The carb on there now is the amazon knockoff. Its about as cheap as it gets. The one that was originally on the gen is of much higher quality. I had a hell of a time getting the main jet out then drilled it out. Its trash. I'd like get a new main jet in there but am unsure what...

Thanks for the help. Manually working the throttle made a big difference. Guess Ill be playing with the governor springs for a bit. I can't find any info about this gen anywhere. Its 196cc so I'm guessing its a clone of a GX200. The main jet on the OEM carb is shot. Any idea what size Honda...

Thanks for the reply. A little choke does nothing. I have to choke it almost closed to get it anywhere near smooth then it stalls. Haven't tried holding the throttle at idle yet. Will try when I don't feel like taking a hammer to the thing. Probably tomorrow. the carb is the following...

A friend dropped off an ETQ TG-3600 he found at the curb and asked if I could get it running. Tank and carb were full of water so I cleaned everything up and generator surges no matter what I've tried. It surges on idle and under load. Here's whats been done. gen model ETQ TG-3600 engine...

Replacing the camshaft is not difficult. The devil is getting there and back. Gather everything you need before hand. Gaskets, oil seals etc. Be prepared for broken bolts etc. Take lots of pictures and label and separate things as the are removed. Make sure the timing marks are lined up and...

I'm looking for the manual the goes with an older ETQ generator. I've looked high and low and have come up empty. ETQ TG3600 Thank to all who reply

A little late, but if its not super rusted you can try penetrating oil and an air hammer. Sometimes the vibration will knock it loose.

A longtime You-tuber, Taryl has a video on this if you need a step by step guide.

When I don't feel like smashing it with a hammer I'll swap the carb's jet assembly with the working one and see what happens. Thanks

Thanks for the replies. Unfortunately its not the fuel or the line or tank. I swapped the carb out with another from a similar mower model and it runs perfect. Its something going on with this particular carb and I have no Idea what it could be. I've had it off at least 6x and the results...

Need some help troubleshooting a briggs plastic carb model 799584 mower model 09P702-0145-F1 Mower runs erratically and will die under load and can't be restated unless the carb is pulled and cleaned. Runs and dies with carb spray. I've had the carb apart multiple times and can't figure out what...

I have a small non inverter generator with a battery tray that is an oddball size. I'd like to weld on a new one. Will welding on the frame damage the electronics, AVR etc. I've heard a few different answers and was wondering if there is any definitive advice. FYI its a 7 HP Honda clone. Thanks...

Check to make sure the choke is operating correctly.

@tkos115 If you do decide to go through with taking everything apart, please report back. I'd be very interested in how you made out!

I'll give that a go. Never tried leaving the gas cap off before. I've always drained the bowl but wound up with crusty crap on occasion.

I'm thinking about trying something new, at least for me, storing my 4 cycle equipment. I plan on draining my float bowls via main bowel nut or drain nut then generously spraying WD-40 up into it. Was wondering if there is any problem with leaving WD-40 in a carb long term. Thanks to all who reply.

Walmart and a few other places sell briggs & straton 30w in 48oz jugs. Its not usually with the car oil though, its usually with the outdoor supplies.

If its not the starter/solenoid or ground, maybe check the valve adjustment and also make sure the compression release is bumping the valves.

Glad to hear it worked out. SmallEngineHead160 is correct, the old air cleaner should bolt right on with the longer screw. Also Some of these replacement carbs have a small black screw blocking the threads where the air cleaner screw threads in.

Try dribbling a little gas or a quick shot of carb cleaner in the spark plug hole. If it runs and dies, you know you have compression. Rules out a few other things as well.

Check to make sure the spark plug is tight. I've had a generator or two run like crap because of a loose plug.

I believe the part number for the carb is 795477 the tank 494406. Searching for the tank # at the usual online suspects will get you the tank and carb combo. Couple of things to note. Its aftermarket so it may work may also be junk. Depending on your mower age you may need to cut the end of the...

@volvofan94 I know you plan on selling this, so spending +$25 isn't ideal for your profit margin, but swapping out for a pulsa-prime may be less frustrating. There is no auto-choke, no adjustment, and its basically a direct swap. Just thought I'd add to your options.

Its probably just mild steel. If you can get your hands on a cheap flux core welder you can put it together. Try doing a series of tack welds if you don't have any welding experience. Clean the surfaces to bare metal and give it a go. Its gonna look like crap but will be stronger than using JB...

He already has a thread on this issue here https://www.lawnmowerforum.com/threads/vintage-3-5hp-briggs-and-stratton-148cc-engine-wont-go-past-idle.74248/

That could mean a bad battery, bad ground or bad solenoid. Check out this video for testing

Solenoid will click when activated, but if you are jumping the starter you are bypassing the solenoid.

First lets make sure your battery is good. Just because its reading 12+ volts doesn't mean its good. If you can get it load tested at a local auto parts store that would be a help. You could also try using a battery that you know is good, like your car battery or a Jump start box. Second, as...

@navydad2022 You mentioned the solenoid is new...any chance you got a bad one? Is this a genuine OEM solenoid, or aftermarket from Amazon or Ebay. @Rivets Your procedure for tracing a staring issue is very thorough, what I can't understand is why pull start isn't starting the engine.

@Rivets If this mower has a pull start, and nothing is grounding out spark shouldn't it fire if its getting fuel regardless of battery/electrical issues? Asking for my education as well as this posters problem.

Does the engine seem normal when you yank the pull rope? Turns correctly with compression? If it doesn't have a fuel solenoid it should start with the pull rope. When you yank the pull start, is the key turned to the on position? All safety's engaged?

So if you're saying the engine cranks, but won't fire with either starter or pull cord I'd check for spark next. If no spark, pull the kill wire on the ignition. If you then have spark, interlock or ground issue, if not bad ignition module

Do you wan to to restore it, or just get it running? If the latter, you can also swap that pulsa-jet with a pulsa-prime carb & tank. I did this when my pulsa-jet tank rotted. Its basically a direct swap except for 2 possible issues on old equipment. You may need the longer screw for the air...

I just did something similar three seasons ago on a 4hp mower that I've had since the 80's and here's why. The mower was smoking enough that it was noticeable so I did a quick hone and replaced the rings with some new old stock. I don't have to worry about a customer screaming at me if I didn't...

Check for balance too. If one side of the blade has more metal than the other it can cause significant vibration.

Looks like your date code is 00 so 691450 is correct, but before changing the crank, I would make sure the blade isn't bent and that it is balanced.

bent or unbalanced blade will cause vibration Parts and user manuals can be found HERE

Your setup should look similar to the pic below. You should be able to move the link coming from the bi-metal thermostat without to much difficulty. It should move that black arm forward which opens the choke. If it doesn't, I can guess its one of three things. The arm I mentioned previously is...

I was always told that if you can't catch your fingernail on a grove you can avoid a hone, but others here know vastly more so I'd wait to hear what they say.

So there is a link that runs from the thermostat on the muffler to a little plastic arm that pushes the choke open and closed when the muffler gets hot or cold. If that is in the wrong position in relation to the plastic arm with the spring on it, it can jam the choke movement.

Its possible the linkages are not in the correct position and keeping the choke from opening.

So I got my strongest readers out and there is no tip on this K20-WYL needle. I'm not sure if I got a factory dud or what. I got my wife's camera that has a better lens and took a snap of a needle from a k20-WAT on the left and the K20-WYL on the right. Both were wiped with brake clean to remove...

I don't have sound on this pc I'm using, but the simplest thing to do is pull the plug, squirt a small shot of carb cleaner, or good gas into the hole and try to start it. If It runs and dies, you know you have spark and compression. If not, check for spark next. Could be something as simple as...

Had no idea this existed. His gaskets are only a bit more than current OEM prices. Thanks for this.

Are these OEM gaskets? I know its tempting to buy the aftermarket considering the price

Thanks for the reply. This is the needle I have that's from a k20 kit I had in my stash. Sorry about the how blurry it is but I can't see or feel any rubber.

The carb is a walbro WYL 280 009. The needle has a viton tip and the carb has a metal seat. I believe the kit should be k20-wyl but the needles seem to lack the rubber tip. Does walbro make a kit for this carb with the viton tip? I'd really hate to spend $10 on the gaskets and another 10+ just...

Forgot to mention...did you try adjusting the fuel adjustment screw(s) on the carb. Sounds like you may need more fuel.

If the fuel lines have rotted away, its a good bet the diaphragms in the carb are hard as an old boot. I would order a carb kit and do a thorough cleaning. If you intended on keeping the trimmer I would rebuild the OEM carb and avoid a cheap after martket version if possible. The OEM tends to...