Search results

Either I didn't make myself clear or I didn't understand your suggestion. "You make some bypass jumper leads that have a male terminal at each end Get a globe and hook some wires to it Connect one end to a power source and the other to the magneto kill wire The kill wire is normally open...

Searching frantically I managed to find a 12V blue fluorescent tube I bought years ago to go inside a PC case. I connected it up as suggested and it lit up. It remained lit while one by one, I bypassed all three switches with a jumper, never going out until disconnected.

I have no old headlamps lying around and cannot think of any other 12V type light device to use. My vehicle has been broke down in my driveway for the past couple of months and nowhere within walking distance. I also have a water leak under my house requiring me to turn on the water only as...

Sorry but, globe?

If you have any helpful suggestions I would be grateful to hear them because I have tried literally everything I can think of. I didn't just begin by jacking the wiring.

Yes. I always make sure to disengage the blade before killing the engine. Because of course, in normal circumstances, it wouldn't start. Another disabled safety feature to worry about. I have the exhaust chute covered with a mulch cover but still, not advisable.

Fortunately the mower is running. Unfortunately, I'm currently mowing without any safety features. The mower will start only by disconnecting the kill wire and crossing the solenoid with a screwdriver. The key is irrelevant. Of course this route disables all safety features. I use the same...

Well it seems I celebrated too early. I got the front yard mowed. Started on the back and noticed grass was no longer coming from the discharge chute. So I stopped, turned off the key to clear the clog. Following that when I turned the key I got nothing. I pushed it back up into the shed and put...

Solved. After weeks of trying virtually everything, except of course, the right thing. At a whim I decided to look at some pics of coils online. Then I dug out the old one I had recently replaced. It was marked cylinder side and outside (or similar). I removed the recently installed coil to have...

So I guess I'll be buying a new coil. Looking back there have been several issues with this mower over the years. Failing to shut off with the key, failing to start, and others. Once I was charged for wire harness replacement only to discover later that they had merely defeated the seat safety...

Sorry for the delay, I've not been feeling well for a few days. I put the coil on the same as the old one came off and the one before it with the kill wire terminal on top. I should be feeling up to checking on it in a day or two. Until then, is there a way I can check the coil? Theoretically if...

New meter, wrong setting. 12.5V to positive battery terminal, open to ground. The kill wire connects to the coil from the harness at the same junction as the stator. It's black in but yellow out the other side.

The only thing left in the circuit is the solenoid. All safety switches, key switch, and stator disconnected. 26.8V specifically with red meter wire to positive battery terminal and black meter wire to kill wire.

Kill wire isolated from coil shows 27V irrespective of key position.

It's a new coil gapped with the included card. No spark with the previous coil either which is why I replaced it.

Seems to have plenty of compression with good pressure at the spark plug hole. Guess I'll replace all safety switches again. Will take a few days as I'll have to order them since my truck is broke down as well.

I had a look and there is nothing connecting to the fuel bowl.

Disconnected the black kill wire but still no spark. With the blower housing removed the wire is in plain sight and completely free of any obstructions or crimps. Disconnected from the coil I'm able to pull it out with ease.

Thank you. I was unaware of a plug running to the carb bowl. I'll have a look. I replaced the key switch last week. Even though there is no visible damage to the black kill wire, unplugging it may lead to something else. Trial and error right?

Thanks, I'll try that but the black wire of which you speak is in plain sight and free of any kinks or pinches. I had to remove it and reattach it when I replaced the coil. But what the heck. Couldn't hurt. At this point I'd stand on one foot and sing Help me Rhonda.

Edited. Better?

I have taken pretty good care of this mower, sharpening the blade, replacing the air and fuel filters and spark plug and oil seasonally. A couple of years ago I did what I think in the automotive world is referred to as a frame off restoration, removing everything, cleaning and degreasing...

Probably like many others, a problem and then a search lands you here. I have a Murray MER circa 2003 model # 309029x92B inherited from my Dad. I'm not a big yard guy but the lawn must be mowed right?