Search results

You mentioned changing the injectors. I assume that this is an EFI engine. You didn't mention changing the fuel filter. You need a 10 micron Kohler fuel filter. If changing the fuel filter doesn't work, you will need to someone with a diagnostic tool to pull the codes.

"Need to be replaced at regular intervals" That is correct. It's best to change them yearly or ever 100 hours. They are relatively cheap. Also, the super cheap stuff sold on Amazon or Ebay are not the best. OEM, Stens, or Rotary are fine for that time period.

Neither are very good running parallel to the slope. That's why manufacturers put recommendations in their owners manual.

A little FYI. Clean and mark the throttle cable on both sides of the hold down clamp before loosening the cable clamp. When everything is hooked back up, you will only have minor adjustments to do.

Weight is better distributed on a tractor style riding mower. With a ZTR all of the weight is on the rear.

This time of year dealer repair shops are swamped. Some will push warranty repairs and commercial clients to the head of the line. There could be up to a three week wait. I would suggest an independent repair shop.

I ordered a new OE carburetor through the dealership. I will pick it up tomorrow. They also had the OE choke kit. I will likely get that as well and repair the existing carburetor. You never know when you might need a spare.

I want to remind people to blow your mower and engine off after cutting grass. My Gravely has 300 hours on the clock. I blow it off after every use with a leaf blower. When I had the engine cover off, I noticed that the engine cooling fins were very clean.

That's the OE filter for the KT725. It's also a good choice. I was hoping that he would watch the video and get a better understanding of the various filter applications.

Of those two, the Radius E. Shop other brands with similar features. Often times, you can get more from other makers for the same money.

There's a couple of good YouTube videos explaining filter applications. One is from Taryl.

The OP isn't giving us a full description. He said XT725 and not KT725.

Is this a single cylinder Kohler engine? If so, it's a gravity fed unit. If you put too small of a micron rated filter on it, it will not run.

From: 5 years ago

Thank you. Yes, their website is messed up.

The attached photo will show the broken attachment point of the choke linkage.

Tell us the model and serial numbers of your mower. Tell us what your cutting height is. Tell us your type of grass.

It's made by Highline Warren, formally Warren Distribution. Mag 1 is Highline Warren's flagship oil. They blend for many retailers.

I have the service manual. See (F) page 36. There is a little gray plastic attachment part that is broken off. (F) was laying on top of the lower muffler shied with a piece of broken plastic attached to the shaft. I believe a new carburetor will be needed. Is there a cross to that particular...

The last two times I went to cut my grass, my mower would not start. This is a Gravely Pro Turn 260 with a Kohler PS ZT740-3046 engine. I checked spark. Good on both cylinders. I checked for fuel. The pump is working. One more test. I put my hand over the air filter horn. She fired right off...

It depends on the manufacturer of the drive unit. Find out what you have on your Scag.

Read the Gunk product label. Be sure it's safe to use on plastic and rubber. Non-chlorinated brake cleaner works well. Hose off with water.

What is the problem with the blade? Or, is it the mower?

The G3 is not going to perform better than the Toro blade.

4.5" angle grinder with a 40 grit flapper wheel. You will get the hang of it. A nail in a tree or a cheap cone balancer is all you need to balance them.

You are getting closer to the answer.

That would apply to the The worm drive clamps are on Kawasaki FR series engines. Kohler uses a different design.

One more thing. Yamaha is or has divested itself from the power and small engines. EPP of Japan is to get that segment. It will be very hard to get replacement parts for the Yamaha MX engines.

I use grease on the intake horn were the filter attaches. The fines will not get past the grease.

Yep! It's critical to service that pre-filter. It catches most of the junk. Washing it and oiling it every 25 hours is important. I like the aerosol foam filter oil. It's easy to apply and pretty tacky.

Here's the deal. Bad Boy, Gravely, and Husqvarna all offered Yamaha engines at one time. Their failure rate was higher than the Kawasaki, Briggs, and Kohler. All three dropped them. My Gravely dealer used my old mower as a loaner. The last time I talked with him, it was on it's third Yamaha...

You may not be able to get a replacement Yamaha engine. Go with a reliable replacement.

Replace it with a Briggs, Kohler, or Kawasaki. The Yamaha engines were junk. Bad Boy, Husqvarna, and Gravely used Yamaha engines at one time. I had a MX800V on a Pro Turn 160 that was nothing but trouble. The dealer gave me full credit towards another mower at 87 hours.

Does this engine have the cylinder shaped air filter? If so, it should also have a green foam pre-filter. The pre-filter should be cleaned and re-oiled every 25 hours. The filter should be replaced every 100 hours. The filter housing should also be cleaned ever 25 hours.

Verify that your fuel pump is working. A small container of fuel is needed. Place the line between the filter and pump in the container. Disconnect the line between the pump and the carburetor. Spin the engine over. If there's gas flowing, the pump is good. That means that you need to dump the...

I thought the same thing about the fuel pump.

The small line is the vent line.

Here's the parts manual. This should help. The deck will need to be supported by 2x4 or 4x4. You will need some slack in the chain deck hangers. Remove the chains at the attachment points. You may be able to replace the spindles without removing the deck...

Try lowering the air pressure in the tires and then adjust the level of your deck. Try 10 psi in the rear and 12 psi in the front. That will give you less bounce.

That's too low for the gage wheels.

Ingenuity. Do you realize that the mower deck is not supposed to ride on the anti-scalp (gage) wheels? Are you cutting the entire 4 acres with that mower? I have 3 acres to cut and it's pretty bumpy. I use a commercial 60" zero turn mower. I cut at 2.5" to 3" depending on growing conditions...

I've experienced the U1 batteries being a little low. I check mine on a regular basis. There is usually electrolyte covering the lead. Those little YUASA batteries in motorcycles and ATVs are a different story.

Are you able to check the electrolyte level? If so, add the appropriate amount of distilled water to the cells and then charge it.

I despise them.

SHAZAM

Let me see if this reply goes through.

FYI: The gage wheels are not supposed to have continuous contact with the ground. If you are cutting at 3" or less, move the wheels to the top mounting holes. For anything over 3" move them to the lowest mounting holes.

It's getting to where it's not worth my time.

The Rotary blades are cheaper than the factory blades and they will cut just as well or better. They sharpen up nicely too. Gators are okay late in the season and the first and second mowing. When the grass has fully greened up and filled in, the high lifts work best.