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Older Gravely mowers are picky about blade choices and deck setup. Some of the older deck designs have smaller discharge openings. Gravely mower decks perform best when they are completely level all around or 1/8" higher in the rear. Aftermarket notched high lift blades work best on Gravely mowers.

I had a Gravely with the Kohler ZT740. It would crank and crank but never fire. I checked everything over except the the actual butterfly. Everything checked out. I put my hand over the intake horn and it fired right off. The choke linkage on the carburetor butterfly was broken.

Put you hand over the air intake horn and try to crank it. If it fires up, the choke is the problem.

Most of what are known as Conventional oils are in fact synthetic blends now. There are some outliers.

Here are Rotary's replacements. https://www.rotarycorp.com/search?q=UC22009

Yes, you could have a spindle problem. Do the left and right blades both make contact with the center blade? Does your deck show any deformation around the spindles?

John Deere lists UC22009 as the replacement blade part number. These are the only blades Oregon lists that cross to the Joh Deere UC22009.

How bad can the cheapo Amazon carbs be? It's a crap shoot. If you are planning on keeping the mower, put on a Briggs carburetor. You will thank yourself later.

Sometimes, people need to research for themselves. It's not my job to provide the actual micron data of a certain filter.

AI is your friend. The longer version of either color will capture more particulate. There are better filters than B&S, Kohler, or Kawasaki. All three engine manufacturers outsource their oil filter manufacturing to the lowest bidder.

The only differences are the paint color and the filtering media. The yellow filters will catch smaller particles.

I suggest that you get the B&S carburetor. It's a crap shoot with aftermarket stuff. Replace all of your fuel lines and your fuel filter. Adjust the valves after fitting the new head gasket. I don't think that will have too much of a problem with setting up your carburetor.

I come up with a B&S part #273280S

I believe that this is your carburetor. Some of the others on here can confirm. https://shop.briggsandstratton.com/products/briggs-and-stratton-593432-carburetor @ILENGINE @Auto Doc's

Is this your correct engine number? 219907-0131-B1 - Briggs & Stratton? If not, please list the model number and serial number.

We aren't getting all of the details. Fuel delivery and fuel metering seems to be the main problems. An electric fuel pump will definitely flood out the engine and carburetor. Fuel is bypassing the needle and seat. There could be a problem with the float too. Looking at the overall setup of the...

It certainly sounds like you have an electric fuel pump mounted on your engine. A standard pulse fuel pump will not pump fuel unless the engine is turning over. Follow your fuel line from the carburetor. A pulse fuel pump will look like this. 👇...

Are you using an electric fuel pump?

I think you might be right about the orange filters. Amazon lists them as primarily for Husqvarna application.

I won't do it again. That Mule had great compression. 😂 The Nikki carburetor was horrible.

With what you just described, you definitely have a carburetor problem. I got a good soaking after pulling the plug on the Kawasaki Mule. It's a good thing the spark plug wasn't connected to the plug wire.

Use the yellow one. Black is the basic. Yellow is the mid-grade. Orange is the so-called extended life. There may be a slightly longer model available.

If you have the room, you can use FRAM TG3614, Microgard MSL 51348, NAPA Gold 1348, Carquest Premium 85348. The list is long. I recommend that you stay away from Wix, Purolator, and Motorcraft. The glue is sloppy and can come off inside the filter. Also, their louver style center tube may not be...

The spark plugs will be wet with fuel and fairly clean, if there is that much fuel getting into the cylinders. If that's the case, I'm surprised that you haven't experienced a hydro-lock situation. I just can't imagine that much fuel on top of the cooling fins coming from inside of the engine...

Clean all of that up and pull the plugs. Get some pictures of the plugs and post them. That's a long way for fuel to go and settle on the cooling fins.

Is it a whistling type noise? If so, it's the fuel system venting. That is perfectly normal. My Gravely Pro Turn 260 is in my storage shed. I can be in there and it will whistle for a short period and stop. Later, it will repeat the same sound. The newer emission regulations require a different...

Most of today's so-called conventional oils are synthetic blend. There are outliers like Valvoline VR-1.

I wouldn't use that Lube King in anything other than an air compressor.

https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/traveller-hd-motor-oil-sae-30-5-qt-t1251400-1636292 Synthetic isn't necessary. Motorcraft 15W40 Super Duty is a good oil. If you must have synthetic, Mobil 1 15W50 is a good choice.

https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/countyline-lawnmower-oil-sae-30-48oz

Shell Rotella T1 SAE30 will work in its place.

It could be off an old Ariens lawn tractor. I stand corrected. It's off an old Scotts lawn tractor. https://www.ebay.com/itm/267030981408

Correct! @Scrubcadet10 said the Xtend system. https://www.vanguardpower.com/na/en_us/innovation/oil-xtend-system.html

I think this is what you are looking for. If it's the cartridge style. https://arlingtonpower.com/products/ferris-595930-vanguard-oil-guard-cartridge-filter

Again, you can buy gaskets for the Kohler tin valve covers. There is also a retro valve cover kit available. The kit includes new composite valve covers with o-ring style gaskets.

Not all Kohlers have hydraulic lifters.

I've watched him before.

It doesn't really matter whether you use synthetic or conventional oils. Lots of commercial guys change their oil at 50 hours. Residential owners usually yearly or 100 hours. That's, if they follow the engine manufacturers recommendations. It's very important to keep the air filters properly...

If you have an ATV or UTV, something like a towed rough cut or finishing mower would work. Those things can be set up to run offset the centerline of the off road vehicle.

You can actually buy valve cover gaskets for that engine. You can also buy the upgrade composite valve covers with o-ring style gaskets.

It's never easy when you have to pull the entire rear end off of a mower.

You have a point there. Those folks then have problems when buying parts. Many will come to forums like this asking part and service advice for their mowers.

Neither does Kohler. However, many mower manufacturers say to change the oil early in their operators manuals. It's best to follow the recommendations in the engine manufacturers manuals for the engine. New mowers come with two manuals, one for the mower and one for the engine.

FRAM PH8172 STP S3512 If you have room (length), a FRAM TG3614, Motorcraft FL-910s, Microgard Select MSL 51348, AC Delco PF53, Super Tech ST3614.

You can use whatever oil you like as long as it meets Kohler's minimum requirements and change at the recommended intervals. I use all sorts of oil in my Kohler engine. I've run 10W40 motorcycle oil, 15W40 diesel oil, and a mixture of leftover oils.

I went back and looked. See my above reply. That's what I get for not using both my senses of hearing and sight together.

I did. It sounded like it was spinning just fine to me. Never mind, I wasn't paying attention to the top of the engine not spinning.

Engines need spark, fuel, and air to run. Check your spark plugs. Are they wet with gas? Do they spark? Is it getting fuel to the carburetor? Is the air filter clean and dry? Is the choke linkage hooked to the throttle cable?

If it were my mower, I would run it level all around. If you are going to do it by the book, match your height selection to the actual cutting height in the front and raise the rear 1/8" to 1/4".

Normally, it's best to buy in pairs. You will get it close to the correct size by inflating to maximum pressure printed on the sidewall, and setting it out in the sun for a few hours. After mounting it on the mower, lower the pressure to the recommended psi.