Search results

If it is not more than 1/16 to 1/8 of an inch it would not hurt to grind off that corner. I have had to modify some before. The critical part is the end near the flywheel and I think it is the intake your are speaking of. I have even had to drill the holes larger because I could not get the...

There is one other thing that comes to mind about these type carbs. If memory serves me correctly, they are made of high temp polystyrene plastic and when plastic gets old it can crack. If this carb has a crack in it were the fuel flows, then that could also be the problem.

Your suspicion about the alcohol is correct it will degrade the diaphragm over time and about it not having a fuel line. This carb does not have a float but uses the jet to regulate flow. I believe one of those two flappers allow the excess fuel to return to the tank and the other acts as pump...

The flappers if they do not seat good or the diaphragm is not next to the carb then the flappers will allow fuel to leak by if the mower is not setting level. Btw worn piston rings will not matter about fuel getting into the oil. New rings will not stop the liquid fuel.

The carb you showed sits on top of the fuel tank does it not? Since it does not have a fuel line running to it, it has to use the vacuum to pull fuel up through the tube going down into the tank. So it has to have a diaphragm and that diaphragm has to have a hole somewhere in it leaking by. The...

I had one similar come in with same problem fuel in oil. The carb was putting out too much fuel and was being sucked back through the crank case breather that connects to the carburetor. I replaced the carburetor and fixed it. Though the carburetor has no needle valve it does have neoprene...

This belt measured .654 using my calipers. Length was 90 3/4 inches so it was Very close to the (954-0467A) and I agree with you about the OEM belts but when a customer says use aftermarket because of price you either lose the job or use aftermarket. I am not a full shop I do this just to earn...

The belts were worn so bad it would not move. It seems to be ok now. It is working properly. The belts were not OEM as stated because I do not think OEM supplies a Kevlar belt. I would not look forward to another 3 hrs. work to replace it again. Worst belt I have ever replaced. No room anywhere...

It started working on its on 😂. Not sure what change may have been just needed running some.

The slotted arm in part 69 and rod 56 that attaches to the brake pedal does not make contact with either end of the slot with the pedal up or down, so it does not force it to neutral when you press the brake. It seems there is something not right in that area. The Speed pedal does force contact...

This was supposed to be a OEM belt. But bought on Amazon. It measured out correct to the specs because I thought the same thing after I got it in. The go pedal has only the return spring going to the pedal that returns the pedal to it's up position. This pedal has turtle and rabbit marked on it...

I have a 2010 Bronco model 13WX78KS066. What has been done since it came in. 1. Lower and upper drive belts replaced. 2. Deck belt, Spindles and blades replaced. 3 Ignition switch replaced. The problem is when you place it in gear Foward or reverse it goes in low speed and will speed up when...

When a tire gets older it weakens and what possibly occurs is your weight combined with a turn cause the tire to come away from the rim slightly, then lose air pressure and while going forward it rolls the tire of the rim. The reason is a zero turn while turning exerts a sideways pressure on the...

Air filter stopped up or fueling problem.

Speaking of rust if you really want to completely remove rust a low cost and very effective way is to use White Vinegar and baking soda. I had a rusted inside of a metal gas tank. It was rust and flaked up bad. I could not buy another tank because this was an antique tiller. I tried using...

One other thing is to use some never seize on the axel when putting another one on and you will not have this problem if you ever have to remove it again.

I had a rear wheel just like your description. I done about the same things people are saying to do use a puller, heat the hub at the axel area quinch it and a sledge hammer 5 lb and used a steel bar along with someone tightening the wheel puller at same time and it would not budge. I bought...

I had a rear wheel just like your description. I done about the same things people are saying to do and I had a 5 lb sledge hammer and used a steel bar along with someone prying at same time and it would not budge. What I ended up doing was taking a cutting torch and cutting the rim off the axle...

It has been my experience that ethanol does give you less time before the fuel goes bad and you have carb trouble. But even non ethanol fuel can do the same thing and give you problems if it sets up long enough. I have come to the conclusion it is not fully the ethanol that is the problem but...

In the pictures I see rusty coil and flywheel. The first thing I would do is take some sand paper and clean the coil metal surface where it is near the flywheel and then clean the flywheel of rust. Re-gap the coil to flywheel. I have found that rust decreases the magnetic flux from the flywheel...

Then I ask why it specifically says to replace head bolts in manuals for aluminum block and heads. I had a 4-wheeler with aluminum block, 650 cc that keep blowing head gaskets after a few hours of running. I made sure there was no cracks or warpage. Come to find out after I finally found a...

Sounds like it could be in the governor. If it is pulsing low under load, then going back high the governor is opening the throttle it could be adjust wrong, your carb is not supplying enough fuel to maintain rpm, valves misadjusted, or you compression is low.

Replace the head bolts is one of the main things. Once a bolt has been torqued it changes the metal and can cause them to lessen the torque when the engine gets hot. What I do is first take emery cloth and a flat block and emery the head and block clean of all discoloration, then I put on the...

I have seen a lot of mowers come in. Usually, they have never had an oil change. Most of them are borderline worn out by the time something serious goes wrong. Serious means something costing about 1/4 of a new mower price. They usually have 1000 to 5000 hrs. on them. So, there is no realistic...

To start with check to see if you have a fuel pump. Most mowers have one. Find out if the filter is in the line before or after this pump (it should be filtering before it gets to the pump). Replace the fuel lines, filter and cutoff if it has one (this is not expensive and will say for sure that...

I have run upon several that the lifter was bad. If you remove the lifter below where the rounded washer sits is the hole the stud goes through, inspect that area for cracks or warpage. if it is cracked that allows the adjuster to get to end of treads before closing gap.

I figured this out though there are many other things that can cause this problem. The two main things are the fly wheel having magnetism around the fly wheel other then where the magnet is, and incorrect fuel air mixture. First let's deal with the flywheel. I was having problems with backfire...