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Correct me if I'M wrong.........Several years ago K-MART was in bankruptcy....They bought Sears. How does that work??? I have a "mom & pop" hamburger joint that has 5 places around town. I file bankruptcy. Can I go buy McDonalds?...........and with what??

Couple years ago had a Craftsman 1/2 inch drive ratchet that would not "ratchet" ,internal gear broken. Could not find parts. Called Craftsman 800# , believe I got the 800# from Lowes,explained the situation, man said give him the number on the ratchet. I did, said he would put a new ratchet in...

Thanks; will do the bis. card.

Need air gap on ignition coil.........for this piece of Junk!

U are absolutely correct, mucho apologies to the thread starter, and Adios

Well, this is my long,sad,sordid tale of woe, probably bring a tear to a pawn broker's eye. Pulled the sump(oil pan) off the engine. What a mess, where # 9 bolt hole is sump is split. Exhaust push rod is in many pieces, several teeth off the camshaft & crankshaft gears, end of the camshaft...

Just for info.....Loctite has come out with an epoxy for all plastics. This stuff really works.

Had breakfast on top of the block this morning,its that clean.

Well, I'M a practicing brain surgeon & professional solitare player. Thought I'd "branch" out into another profession. U know, something to fall back on. Will be in touch.

Pulled the # 1 head, exhaust push rod on # 1 cylinder is nowhere to be found, its gone....and its steel, intake is aluminum. B & S Intek VTwin 23 hp. mod.445577-0499-E Do believe the last time I ran this beast I had not torqued the fly wheel down enough. Made a terrible sound before it quit...

Believe I "shelled" the engine this time. No compression,either cylinder. Valves don't move on #2.

"You ever try a nylon strap from a ratchet strap"? Have not heard or seen that, will take a look. Going to try a 12 in. pair of vice grips around the fly wheel "flange" that is around the crank shaft. Have put 1 around it and locked it down hard, doesn't look like it will move. Will be in...

Have a B & S 23hp Intek VTwin engine that has sheered several fly wheel keys due to inproper fly wheel torque, which is150 ft.#. Problem; without a B & S fly wheel holder, which I don't have, is there some other way to hold the fly wheel in place??

U probably nailed it....Did not torque flywheel.

I posted one of my more "brilliant" post in reply to your question several days ago. "Apparently" it never got posted or something else happened. Anyway, put a Trombetta 4 post heavy duty solonoid in, works, would post the part # but have to remove battery, stick my head down the hole with a...

Have partially melted the bakelight on 2 --3 pole solonoids. Wonder why?

Have one of these, excellent meter for the price,but for a newbie maybe one that has fewer number of functions, should run about 5 bucks at Harbor Freight.

Thanks Rivets....best # I've had.

Cannot find the part # for the above fuel tank.

Was it spitting or back firing out of the carb.? Have a Briggs Vtwin 23 hp. that sheered a flywheel key. Replaced key, would not start, took brand new carb. off twice, reset armature clearance, reset valve lash. Would not start, kept back firing out of carb. Then it struck me, the beast is out...

They are an alloy metal designed to sheer at a designed pressure. Is there any one reason the ones you replaced sheered?

Took the new carb. off,cleaned,hosed jets out with carb. cleaner, checked float etc. put back together and cranked it up. No fuel leakage, cranked & ran a few minutes 1/2 dozen times. No leakage. Cranked it again, turned a few revolutions then got a "free" wheeling flywheel. Then I hollered OH...

Makes sense, but whoed thought on a new carb. But, on a massed produced item made in China. And thats the reason for the new carb. The first time it happened (the old carb.) it emptied the gas tank into the crankcase.

Finally got this engine back together with several new parts, one being a new carb. Cranked engine, runs like a new one. Shut engine down. Fuel starts leaking big time out of the #2 cyl. intake. Removed carb. with intake. Took carb. apart, float seems to be working as it should. Reassembled...

What about a compression check? Did I miss that in earlier posts? Have a Briggs VTwin 23hp. Was getting good compression on #1 cyl., O on #2. Exhaust valve's head on #2 cyl. "warped". When seated one could throw a small cat thru the crack.

Forgot to add to put all that stuff in an insulated metal box to make it look purdy. Also,found it handy to bench test relays, small motors, etc.and especially test an auto compresser clutch with the relay pulled.

Just an aside; If ever you need a cheap 12v power supply for testing take a look at this; There is no power(amps) just voltage IE: can't start anything with it. https://www.traverseforum.com/threads/a-cheap-12v-power-supply-for-testing.21345/

Appreciate the links and post. When I took the carb. apart one of the emulsion tube screws would not come out. Also, when taken the jets out better remember which hole it goes back in, they look identical, also, the tiny O' ring seal usually comes out "stringee". I decided that instead...

Speaking of "quality" of parts......say auto...the individual(DIY) will buy on the cheap; IE: EBAY-AMAZON etc. Most are Chinese made. "Some" are of good quality. Exception...auto sensors. Have tried, never again. Now O'RIELLY'S or Autozone sells,for the most part, good quality parts with a...

NLA-- I see that quite often, it's always spelled out, on stuff I have, course it's all old, but some isn't that old.

Scuze my ignertz, but what is NLA?

No number on carb. except---A E Power. Cannot find anything remotely connected with Briggs's carbs. So, going to buy new carb. complete with spacers, plugs, manifold to carb. gaskets, and fuel filter, ...$17+ tax. off Ebay with free shipping. Much better than rebuilding........in my extremely...

The "book' says the static governor setting must be preformed whenever the carb. is worked on or taken off engine ,or all H@#^ could break loose IE; come apart. Saw enough U TUBE to convince me.

Appreciate the post. Will take carb. apart. First time with a throttle to gov. controlled engine(which I have a real problem with in my head) also with a "2 barrell",so to speak, carb.

Inherited" a Troy-Bilt 14AA80TP766 Bie (2007)g Red Hors with a Briggs Intek VTwin 23HP engine. Ran when I got it but not good. Pulled plugs & checked compression; 120 on # 1 cyl. 0 on # 2 cyl. Pulled engine and tore down. Head on exhaust valve #2 cyl. "warped...about 3/32 in. gap when seated...

Believe I've found the problem, there is a triangular chip out of the bottom edge of the piston. Going to attach picture but having a problem.

Thanks for tutorial, will take awhile for me to "absorb" this.

Impulse port??

Cannot get fuel from carb. to cyl. Have replaced the carb. and the ignition coil, which was bad, carb,; new one almost as cheap as a Walbro kit. Have had this beast completely apart several times, still cannot get fuel to the cyl............never had this problem before.

Compression on # 2 cyl., which the exhaust valve was replaced, 165 lb.s, compression on #1 cyl. 120 lb. s. Thats a 27 to 30 percent difference. Will recheck valve lash on # 2 cyl......it's a little high, wouldn't U think?

Did help, thanks. Between .010 & .012 inches.

Need air gap on the ignition coil for the above blower.

Mean while, back at the ranch............ finally received the exhaust valve...first one lost in transit. Correction on the original post, the original valve head is warped, not bent. When in the seat there is approx. a 1/16 "opening" between the valve and the seat on one side, and if the valve...

Never thought about that......Came into this world in March...37.....1937. Prefer to be addressed as ....Mature

Plum forgot bout that one.

There are 3 conditions which must be in place for any internal combustion engine to run........IE: fuel, spark, time...if those are "in" place any engine should run.

Appreciate the info. I thought 120 # psi was way to high,checked several times, always the same.When I first got the mower it was running, not very well. Checked compression, either 60 or 80 on #1 cylinder and 40 psi on number 2. Disassembled engine. Forgot, set valve lash initially before...

"You simply don't understand governed engines. They are not the same as automotive vehicles where the operator is the governor." You might have a point,but, this I do know, with a throttle to card. control,chances are the engine is not not going to "blow" weather the engine is great or small...

Now, my real problem with this engine, more particularly with Briggs is....Why is the throttle connected to the governor control ??? Thats undoubtedly the biggest "mistake" I've ever seen on a small engine regardless of who makes it. Or, am I that far behind the "curve"? U see, everything I've...

Exhaust valve bent, when"seated",could through a small cat thru the crack. Was going to attach pictures, had problem.