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I had the handle apart and the plastic switch out I can see where the parts go in the switch I just don't know what parts to order as there gone the slots in the plastic stop switch are empty

Does your machine have a single choke/throttle? Have you checked your plastic intake manifold for leaks?

Not the main jets in the emulsion tube I took all that off to expose the other jets, it ran rich so I put another new Chinese carb on it except I used the stock choke plate because it has a single lever for choke and throttle, It has a different arm on it and flips it the other way, it starts...

If you look on the coil you can see a tab right above where the spark plug wire comes out, I have the wire, it came with the new coil, other then that I'm lost, the stop switch doesn't have any metal connections it's all plastic

Thanks ill post some tomorrow

Does anyone have pictures of the partner k1200 shut off parts and how it goes together i tried parts diagrams but that area isnt detailed thank you, all that came with the saw is the stop switch and holder

Update: i switched choke plates sucessfully and the tractor continues to start within a second or two, i greatly appreciate everyones help. Now i have to repair the kill switch on a partner k1200 but only the stop switch trigger is there the rest is missig and all the parts diagrams i look at...

So i took the chinese carb and drilled one of the idle jets right out to 1/16" it starts right up now and runs great, now my only problem is if i can switch choke plates from the oem one the the chinese carb as the tractor has a singke throttle choke lever and the chinese carbs are designed for...

So i tried the carb from the dyt4000 its a double nikki carb, no change, it didnt even want to start with gas down the carb, i might use one if the chinese carbs as a guinnie pig to make the idle jets bigget does anyone have a suggested size?

I did, at the low hours it has they werent off by much and it made no change :/

Ahh chokeplate yes, ok i will let you know how it goes.

Thanks again everyone, I believe I will start with the carbplate hole covering, even tho i put my hand over the intake while choking it with no luck, then ill try this other carb, then by then i will have an aftermarket o ring kit for the oem carb i will try if that doesnt help.

Are the main jets different?

So the brass plug had no change? Man thats sad you figured out starter death rates before getting a solution, have you ever tested compression or did a leak down test on yours? Thats my next step after another carb i just cant get much shop time in on the weekend due to a barage of family...

I remeber now I have a carb off a craftsman dyt4000 on my shelf i rebuilt just in case, its similar but has some differences like a different choke plate and the solenoid is mounted verticly instead of horizontaly, I will mount this different style carb as soon as i can and see what happens.

So you did try the brass needle? I have tried two solenoids, both test positive out if the bowl but im willig to try anything so ill try the bolt Thank you I will try this also, I appreciate all the responses, i cant wait to get in the shop and do some more process of elimination, iv never...

I will try this tomorrow, do you have the plastic needle or brass

Ok ill see whats in the oem one and in the chinese one thats on it now, by chance dies anyone have a p/n? Thank you for the inout so at everyone

Would this contribute to my problem or more of an insurance down the road thing?

It is not the kit from briggs it is off ebay

Yes it runs awesome until i turn the key to shut it off, I odered a new o ring set for the old carb and ill try that when it comes in.

Hello everyone I have a briggs intek v twin model 445977 with 113hrs, my buddy let it sit a while because it was hard to start and he had a zero turn, by hard to start I mean he had to turn it over for an unreasonable amount of time. So skip to, I get the machine and remove the bowl from the...