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It's 13yr old now, I would sharpen and balance the blade and not raise it more than 2900rpm. Sharp/balanced blades make all the difference. Running with an unbalanced blade just going to damage the engine. New blades are pretty cheap.

You can use the existing fuel filter if you think it's good, it will get flushed. No I can't. You can let them sit for a couple of hours and it will separate.

Why are you wanting to up the rpm? Do you think it's not mowing well enough?

Hook up all your hoses, change the filter if you want. Keep your fuel shut off in off, put good fuel in the tank. Drop the bowl off the carb and empty and clean. Leave the bowl off and turn your fuel on till you get a good stream of fresh fuel coming through the carb. Shut off the fuel, put...

If you go back to message #9 you will see that Rivets has posted links to Walbro carb info, can't remember if there was Zama stuff there also.

Just love Steve, he knows his stuff!

Juntjoo: I honestly don't know why Rivets is wasting his time with you. Your arrogance and ignorance is deplorable on a site meant to help people. This is not a site to educate you in small engine repair, it's for people that either have some mechanical knowledge or when they find out that...

Awesome reference reading Rivets! Keeping all those PDF's for future reference. I normally only piddle around with 4 strokes but I always need refresher on the 2 stroke carbs. Thanks!

Make sure engine is cold when adjusting valves

https://www.engine-specs.net/kawasaki/fx801v.html

University of YouTube might be for you. Search "how does a carburetor work"

The throttle plate side which is what you see in your bottom pic. Top 3 pictures show the choke plate

The 2 on the left hand side look like there is an airbleed port below the mounting hole on the left. Also be aware of venturi size as well as jetting.

Link spring C is what keeps throttle rod from falling out.

Just disconnect your battery then and put the tender on.

Check your main jet again (float bowl bolt) and see if it's plugged up again.

Watch and follow Steve's instructions.

Anywhere between the tank and the fuel filter.

Have you checked that you have good fuel delivery from the tank? Pull the fuel line off at the carburetor and make sure fuel is coming out of the hose at a good rate. Follow Rivets instructions and rebuild the carb if you have good fuel flow from the tank, otherwise, remedy the restriction in...

You can handle this, adjusting the valves is a 30 min job for beginners. I wouldn't get carried away with Grumpyunk's suggestion just yet, just set your clearances to .007". Make sure your valve cover gasket is in good condition or better yet replace it so you don't end up with oil leaks.

If you are reusing an original cylinder you absolutely hone before replacing rings otherwise they will not seat. Also, have you staggered the gap on the rings 120° apart? Did you check the end gap of the rings before installation? New ring end gap should be .008" to .014"

https://www.partstree.com/models/lt-23420-2690826-snapper-lt125-series-42-lawn-tractor-23hp/42-mower-deck-belt-idler-arm-hitch-group-1/

Have you checked the fuel pump output? Backfiring can be a lean issue.

Camshaft problems with 2023 honda mowers. Compression release fault with camshaft.

2016 Husvarna with B&S engine. "Just add oil" when required. I just sucked the oil out and replaced every year.

Is that float on upside down?

The brass piece is the seat. It's built in to the carburetor. You won't necessarily use all the parts in a carb kit, they usually cover a few models.

Did you actually disassemble the carburetor fully and clean the jets and passages with carb cleaner?

.008 - .024" Coil distance from flywheel magnet. You are bang on in the middle. Good job!

Just keep spinning the nut/stud out ccw and then remove the red plastic cover. (Don't lose the 3 metal spacers in the cover) Then you can remove the nut from the stud. Re-install the stud with red loctite and re-assemble. The front stud holds the coil in place so you'll have to reset the...

Pictures

I agree on always trying to use the original carb. That was the plan... But the main jet had already been damaged by someone else so it's not coming out in one piece as well as the drop damage from me. Idle jet o-rings missing also I was of the same thought as you with regards to opening up...

So I was asked to look at my friend's friend's pump motor not running. Starts and dies, Starts and dies..... Removed the carb and was in the process of cleaning it out when I dropped it and broke the plastic part for the throttle linkage (damn). Ordered a new carb off of amazon and installed...

I just went through that with a FH580V. You have to follow the steps to the letter. Don't forget to use the 1/4 (6mm) drill bit or pin when adjusting I found the ordeal a bit frustrating. Make sure the screw at the bottom right of the control plate is backed out all the way. It is used...

Right below your gas tank you should find a LIME GREEN lever called Clip Director. It's on the same side as where you add the oil. If you have that in the Mulch position and it's still leaving a trail, maybe your blades are dull or you're cutting deck needs cleaning.

https://www.amazon.com/HEPENG-695711-Lawn-Mower-Electronic-Ignition/dp/B098T9CQ1S/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?crid=14BJ3K1EYNCLS&keywords=briggs+%26+stratton+coil&qid=1683384164&sprefix=briggs+%26+stratton+coil%2Caps%2C151&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExTjMxMkNaWERBWTM0JmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPU...

Really good post. I think the 45° is a little steep. I personally sharpen mine to 30°ish. All the new blades I've ever bought have an initial grind of about 30° so that's what I've stuck with, they seem to stay sharp quite long.

Always adjust valves on a cold engine.

Easy to make if you have a shop vac