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And I've often wondered why Briggs is so persistent on blocking that cooling air for the engine. Either a governor or now the choke deal. I took that choke deal off my mower with this deal on it. Another solution looking for a problem.

That looks better than new! Alloy deck too! Mine is identical except for the flimsy steel deck. Been looking for that aluminum deck for a while, hard to find a non-propelled one these days. Have to remember that Mopar grabber green for touch ups.

Looks like a big player in this is Alibaba. Look for a part or item you've bought lately on their site and you'll see what you could get that for in a lot of 100, or 1000. Pretty amazing. And they are probably not the cheapest wholeseller of Asian merch.

I guess I'm just living in the past? No wonder China is taking over the world.

I've had a couple old Briggs NOS motors from early 80s and they were good to go. How old is the short block actually?

One thing I'd add, wild guess. Brake? This hydro has an external disc type brake and it's not closed or covered. Might check into that before doing anything radical. That transmission is an expensive proposition.

That motor have a fuel pump? There are differences in filter materials and some don't work well on gravity feed systems.

I wonder about the 60"+ deck with all that mowing around stuff? But I do like the big hydros on the Bad Boy, and I'd sure double check the mower being bought to insure that it does have that back there.

That's interesting. Even with really cheap stuff there can't be any real profit in that?

And the Chinese Flu pandemic and the half billion masks that we've imported from, you know, China.

Does the engine slow way down going up that hill, or the mower just won't pull?

Been a while but seems like on my mower the actual bottom of the motor is about an inch above the deck plate. Might be much easier if you just pull the motor off the mower?

That's what I've found out over the years too, even with Nicd and Nimh. Factory seconds? Thirds?

Series: five batteries at four volts for the 20v output - parallel, two sets tied together for double the current capacity. But those are packaged pretty tight, oh well.

One more thing to try, probably hopeless, but put some current into each cell with a charger that outputs around 4 volts for a couple minutes each. Then try your regular charger, if it sees some voltage on the pack it may actually recharge the pack.

You are stopping before shifting?

I double check the tensioner. That is a one belt deck (?) with a really long belt. That tensioner can get dirty and won't keep up with the belt flapping around. Maybe time for a new belt too?

And those metal strip connectors can be cut easy and soldered. No magic in the connectors. But a lot of the Chinese replacement cells brag on their high ratings, but are pretty weak when actually loaded. A good source for powerful Li-ion batteries is a laptop battery pack. Most are connected...

If it still runs maybe tell him to use it until it quits. Might have a nice window in the block to see what was wrong?

I wonder if that motor has an automatic choke? Does it actually have a primer that you push? But I suspect you'll need to get into the carb.

Just me, I'd forget it. Too many hours and too much expensive stuff that can go wrong at this point. 1700 hours is about 20 years in normal use I think.

I'd think that comp. release would be out of the way when running. Plastic cam gears shot? If you get deeper into it let us know what you find.

Not laughing here. Every time I get a checkup I have to eliminate something from my diet seems like. Carbs, salt, sugar, latest was major cut in milk drinking. Probably wind up raking the lawn after mowing and having it for dinner.

I think that engine was designed for those special hi-performance offset valve heads. Did you manage to get a decent looking pattern on the seats with the lapping?

Does this carb have the little screen/filter in the fuel inlet? Have to look close to see it. Worth a look.

Try pulling back on the brake/clutch pedal. Not sure how this mower is set up but usually that will add some belt tension. If that helps it you need a new belt or other parts.

Sort of like removing a tie rod or ball joint. Whack the adapter on the side of the collar with a hammer and drift while 'bucking' it on the opposite side. The compression will pop it loose.

If this is just a basic cap and not just part of a circuit you can test ti with a 12v battery and small light bulb. Charge the cap with the battery, then remove the battery and use the cap to power the light bulb. It will burn for a second or two or three if the cap is good. Look at the...

A drop of oil now and then and the fix would probably last forever. Have to remember that one.

Looks like a good practical work around for that deal. Hope that keeper inside stays in place though.

I have a Greenworks lunchbox electric washer and it also had a velcro strap for the hose. Little thing that does come in handy.

I've been using the Tractor Supply batteries for several years, get really good long term service. I take the battery out in January and give it a recharge. Usually buy the upper level battery, 300 amp I'm thinking.

The coupling between the hydro unit and the differential is a pretty skimpy looking sliding sleeve. That would be what I'd first suspect. This can be replaced but when splitting the case, it's glued/sealed pretty good, getting it resealed is tough. I'd double check all of the above before...

If you have a multi meter check the battery voltage when you try the starter.

Today's motor oil is formulated for use in newer designed automobile engines, quite a bit different that what an air cooled lawn mower engine would use. For no more that the mower uses and how often it's changed I'd use the engine maker's oil in the weight required. There are some synthetics -...

Maybe pull the discharge chute up some, and keep the underside of the deck really clean. And of course mow dry grass. I see around here the grass stays somewhat wet even at 2 or 3 PM some days.

All I get from that number is a Tecumseh engine on a self propelled mower. Service manual available from Sears parts for that motor.

Usually with a sleeved bore the piston is cast aluminum with no coating or treatment. Sounds like lots of standard wear in that motor. And the trend has been to use short skirt pistons in later years which leads to piston slap pretty early in the motor's life.

I used to mow a pretty deep ditch, side near vertical. I rigged up a cheap light weight push mower with 14" wheels front and back, double handles that would lay down flat. Stand at the top and mow down from there. Two swipes and wait a few seconds for the motor to oil and gas to refill. A...

I wonder if the washer is running those batteries in series, 120 vDC. Will it run with one battery installed in either slot?

One thing I've seen that is weird. The cooling fins of the motor get jammed up with grass etc and the motor starts running hot. Cylinder distorts at the head bolts. If it runs for a while like that you'll see a wear pattern showing right beside the bolt holes on the cylinder walls. Might be...

An extra heat shield for the exhaust is probably a good idea, but that hydro needs as much ventilation as possible. If it's that hot you might give it a good cleaning and check the cooling fan - if I'm reading your post right.

When you remove the oil dipstick the oil slinger will spray oil and air out the tube. (assuming a splash lube motor) Compression is probably ok. What oil are you using the engine?

My L130 is some older than yours, 700 hrs. No leaks but I did replace the fuel line a couple years ago as a routine maintenance.

I'd have to know more about the motors and the drive mechanisms to give an opinion. An I/C Briggs is a plus, the rubber tire transmission is a minus for example.

Any markings on the bolt head? That may indicate a SAE or metric thread type.

I put a Peerless 2000 Silent Trak in my L130 Deere mower a couple years ago when my K46 gave out. I got that trans. at a surplus center for reasonable money and I like the separate hydraulics and differential sections plus the higher rating. Did require some rework and fabrication to get it in...

That K46 hydro has a long history of pain for owners. There have been some really good repair tips coming out lately that seem to restore the unit to good working condition without spending a fortune. When you get some time scan through this forum, lots of info...

I'd avoid the Stihl because of the carb on the newer machines. Someone correct me if I'm wrong but Stihl owns Zama and they're used on their lawn equipment. Cheap garbage in my book. Still like Echo for this type equipment, but that model is pretty expensive for a weed whacker.

I just like to hear the engine run, especially a twin. More fun in the spring time though.