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Pull the wires off the switches and use a meter to see if the circuit opens / closes when you operate the switch , it's a starting point

There is probably no way to grease this part, I just shoot some penetrant on mine every so often , the bushing or bearing is worn out , the bolt on the arm itself may be worn as well,

Something in your steering mechanism is pulling on your ground/ kill wire circuit

Roger that , pull the plug and spin it over should spin easily, coils have nothing to do with it spinning over or not

Battery

Look at the key switch , it should ground ignition in the Off Position , it should also drop power from the little Kill Solenoid under the carb.

Multimeter probably will not do what you want , you need a Battery Load tester, it will simulate a load for about 30 seconds or thereabouts and will tell you if your battery can take a load

Goin to need more information , if it spins over it's Cranking but wont start, If it's spinning over give it a shot of starting fluid in the air cleaner , if it hits and trys to run , it's a fuel problem if not it's ignition

Not cranking is not the same as not starting you'll need to be more specific

Disconnect everything and check your battery voltage first , should be 12 or thereabouts but not less, if 12volts present , look at your ground wire first, then go back to Solenoid and see if things change. If the Solenoid is not even trying ,it's a safety switch holding you out, to verify ...

Just throwing stuff at the wall now as you've exhausted nearly every possible thing, I think I would add some Marvel Mystery Oil to the gas tank and let it run through the system , it's going to smoke like hell for a while but maybe flush and lube all your inner workings in the system even new...

Well the Needle / Seat in the carb bowl controls the fuel input, Maybe the float is sticking in the UP position not allowing fuel to flow- I know you swapped the carb but the problem still exists so I'd pull the carb and check the float assembly anyway

Is this a gravity fed carb ? If not you have a fuel pump in the system and needs to be swapped out, you've done everything I would have - Diaphram fuel pumps go out periodically - basically 2 check valves that can get trash in the seat of one or the other and no flow - I keep an electric fuel...

I ran across the same issue with a Honda engine, Never noticed fuel doin what your video shows, there are a number of gaskets on the Honda machine between the carb and intake - they're to be installed exactly right or some ports get covered up and may possibly cause what you're seeing there...

All these switches go to their own relay and I think they may be in a Series circuit but not for certain , switch them around and see if the problem moves with the relay or goes away - I seem to recall my machine died when the seat switch activated also

If it still runs , no need to pull the flywheel, squeeling sounds would be a pully or belt, will need more information on what kind of mower this is

It's designed to run at any speed you choose , the governor is set to keep it from over revving, you have to run it enough to let the charging system do it's job in keeping the battery up. I rarely run my machines more than 3/4 throttle - just don't see the advantage of running anything wide...

Yeah I was trying to figure out " chock" then got it, when I'm on my phone the friking autocorrect takes over sometimes and I'll end up going back to correct autocorrect again. Today's world

If it won't run without the choke , it's starving for fuel - Something is not letting the fuel get to the carb, start at the fuel tank / supply line etc and work your way back to carb bowl -

I got a new seat at Tractor Supply

I've never seen a burnt valve cause loud exhaust, if you have a burnt valve I don't think it would even run, you may try a different muffler - larger to quiet it down a bit, was it always loud? you may have an exhaust leak sort of bypassing the muffler

We went to Zero Turn about 10 yrs ago, will not go back to anything else , these are very nice and easy to manipulate around the yard. Mine is a Bad boy but I have worked on all brands, Kubota is not user friendly to maintain and very expensive - I would stay away from any brand that has fuel...

Fuel supply line issue , might be sucking air from clamp area or cracked hose , Run a new fuel line to a separate tank , bucket whatever and watch it run

Penetrating oil will not penetrate a stuck bolt , good to use after it begins to move into a rusted thread area but it will not help a stuck bolt begin to move

Always use a 6 point socket for these and when re installing add some grease or never seize to the threads That bolt is pretty much junk now so if you need to use a pipe wrench or something to remove not goin to hurt anything, warm up with a torch until cherry red and it will work loose for you

Well it's plastic, i've seen this before not much you can do but replace the worn parts, it does not have to run all the way up the handle - that's there for making it easy to reach etc.

Sounds like fuel spitting out of the combustion chamber is the first issue - Carburator flooding ? needle valve stuck etc. I'd start there, then chase down your ignition problem- If it was a safety relay , the starter wouldn't engage at all so that's probably not where your problem is Not...

Check your Kill solenoid under the Carb, this is what helps it shut off without backfiring.

I cant see any problem with it , there is no clutch to wear out as it's hydraulic driven and it's only a once in a while action.

There is a " stop " adjustment on most of these mowers, sounds like one of them is set different than the other , it limits the travel and causes this type of issue

In My opinion there is no such thing as Too Much Compression , never saw it in over 50 years on working on all sorts of machine

Don't fix anything that Aint Broke , good rule of thumb

There is a good video on U tube that shows how to test it If memory serves - the wires off the magneto under the flywheel should read close to 30-40 volts, off the voltage regulator something like 14-20 if I can find the link I'll post...

Use a magnifying Glass and look at the taper on the rings , inside taper goes up, outside down oil rings do not have any taper I'm aware of

I've been doing Mechanical work for 50 plus years and still reshearch things on Utube as well as on this site and am still learning some things - with the experience I have I can quickly weed out the BOZOs from the guys that actually know what they're talking about. I can see where someone...

Hard to say right now may be unrelated to the other problem - work them one at a time to isolate where it is coming from, sounds like something is working loose post what you find , good luck

Well if it runs good without the PTO engaged ,you need to look at the Deck , belt - idler Pullys but mainly the spindle bearings - if they get hot and start to seize the belt will start smoking and should be easy to notice. Pull your deck belt off and roll each spindle individually and feel...

Not sure what motor you have but you only set the valves when they're in the closed position at TDC or thereabouts doesn't have to be exactly , Set your exhaust at .008 and intake at .006 to start , roll it by hand and get it to repeat and they're set . There is a real possibility that it's...

Seems to be very few carbs now with any adjustment , you can pull it and clean it as best you can and it may help , damn sure wont hurt, I bought a new one on amazon for like 11$, came with a filter / plug and other stuff , it's tuff to get them clean being so small etc. Also comes with new...

Pull the fuel pump discharge outlet - to carb- crank it over and watch for fuel - it should be coming out of that line with each revolution - if not , the fuel pump has a bad diaphram or check valve they're not too expensive and go out every so often

These engines seem to flood easily , I have one and I can only choke it one time then pull without choke ,it will start then after a few pulls I've only dealt with 2 of these models and they both acted the same.

they missed the mark , it should have been between the teeth to line up right , like the one on the first pic

The only way I ever pulled a flywheel is to pry up from 2 sides 180 degree apart and Hit the top of the shaft with a good hammer, you need to back the nut off so it's flush with the shaft so it doesn't mushroom. Have a friend pry up on the fly wheel and give it a good Pop with a ball peen...

Had one doing the same thing , the tension spring was stretched and no longer keeping the belt tension up, Still throwing the belt , found a missing mounting bolt on one of the hydro motors , replaced the bolt and problem went away

This is interesting , I've run across something similar to this with a Whole different type of engine - Long story short I was the 5th mechanic to deal with it - ended up being the wrong type of spark plug- thing is it was running side by side with an identical engine and that engine didn't do...

Next time it happens , hit it with a little starting fluid , if it cranks off it's a fuel issue. These little machines are a bit wonky - I've had to replace carburators on them even when I didn't find a problem with the old one - On more than one of them I've learned NOT to choke it - they...

Look on Facebook Market place , you'll find something reasonable

I've seen this model come apart before - in my opinion they're poorly designed - ended up swapping out this type motor with a Kohler 20 hp, everything fit except the exhaust b/c it was a 2 cylinder - Small modification to the frame and it's a nice machine now. I'm betting something came loose in...

No this is not a 2 cycle machine - being this old you may as well buy a new carburator , remove the fuel tank and any fuel lines attached , change the oil and plug but it's straight gas

I'd Pass on anything that old unless you want a project - probably ate up with rust and possibly locked up too.