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Check to see if the valves on RH cylinder are both opening and closing.

If you 'stretched' the spring, that is, it is no long the same length when removed from the mower, it's ruined. Get a new one. A picture of your mower deck/engine relationship would help but I doubt if a new spring is going to keep the deck from hitting the engine pulley.

I would guess there is something wrong with the spindle installation causing pulley alignment/belt tension issues.

That's true. But there are other kinds of mowers that don't.

The foam wrapper can extend air filter element life somewhat. How much depends on your application.

Welcome! Quite a few pretty knowledgeable people on here who can most likely answer your questions.

Try a known good dry spark plug.

F. Lee Bailey is still kicking. (Do lawyers ever die?)

Carburetor needs cleaned. Don't buy a cheapie Chinese replacement from Amazon or eBay; just clean (or have it cleaned).

Get out your voltmeter and start tracing, starting at the battery. Most mowers have PTO, seat, and brake safety switches and the path from battery to starter solenoid will go through them.

As Mark said, troubleshooting is the key. Throwing parts at an electrical problem can get very expensive because most electrical parts are non-returnable. As you found out, replacing a starter that isn't getting 12 volts sent to it is not going to cause 12 volts to show up.

Replace the fuel filter if you haven't already.

Have a welder look at it. You'll probably have to strip it down to the frame but there are not that many parts in a zero turn. If you do the grunt work of stripping it down and putting it back together, it shouldn't be too expensive. Certainly a lot less than a new zero turn. If the frame...

My L3000DT has ag tires. I may get stuck with mowing some ground that has quite a few thorny locust trees. Would R4 tires be more thorn resistant? Would like to hear from those who actually run R4's.

If oil went down the top, it's probably the fan blowing it around. As Scrubcadet 10 said, remove the blower housing and clean off what you can. The hot engine will burn off the rest.

Not like that with the 3100's I have. They recommend an early change, then a 200 hour change, and longer intervals (not annually) after that. I think it's 400 hrs.

Rather than get recommendations from people, why don't you ask dealers to let you demo one on your property until you find one that will do what you want.

I was going to point that out, too. Anytime you see claims being made about '24, 48, or1046 hour "torture" tests', be suspicious. That is the easiest duty an engine can see. It's "surviving" ONE thermal cycle.

Thanks, Star Tech. I forgot to mention that this is the inboard seal of the gearbox that drives the tines. I was thinking about drilling a couple of small holes in the side of the seal, scewing in a couple sheet metal screws and using a slide hammer on it. I had all winter to fix this and...

But not always. I've got a post in the Briggs forum about this very thing. A 300e in which there is no model or type number in any of those three locations

This is what I was going to suggest but Hammermechanicman beat me to it. It ought to at least stunt their growth. In the meantime, completely dig up a few. Fill the hole with good dirt and sow it to grass that grows well in your area and keep it watered. Good, thick grass crowds out a lot of...

What's your technique for removing seals without being able to drive them out from the inside? I've got an old Hahn-Eclipse roto tiller that needs a seal on the side of the case that, if the seal can be removed from the outside, would save a lot of work. Thanks.

Northern Tool used to be known as Northern Hydraulics. That was before they decided to change to an outlet for made in China.

I was given a 3/8" Sparta ratchet and socket set a LONG time ago. I still have it. Back then, Sparta was considered one of the cheaper tool brands on the market. I doubt if you can even buy one of equal or better quality now. Let the mud fly. Back on topic: All oil is good; some is better...

I don't know about gas engines, but it has come to the point that the API classification is no longer enough to guarantee that an oil meets a diesel engine's requirements. Both Ford and Cummins have their own specs and it they're not printed on the oil container, that oil is not to be used in...

300e Briggs and Stratton. I looked all over that thing for the info so I could download an owner's manual. No luck. The Briggs website gives three possible locations: On a plate between the valve cover and air cleaner; above the spark plug; and above the muffler. No luck; no manual.

Gather them up and make the road trip. It may be worth it if that sharpener is a good one.

You should be good for several seasons now, at your current rate of usage. I think mine went from first year to 200 hours to 500 hour intervals.

I think what they're saying is the hours don't really matter that much unless you run it more than 75 hours in the first year, in which you'd change it before the first year ended. One year or 75 hours, whichever comes first. I'd change it.

Thanks for the replies. I have no way of accurately measuring endplay but as near as I can tell, it's on the order of ~.060" which is a lot for a pair of opposed tapered roller bearings. bert, how did you remove that spacer? It's an internal snap ring, sitting in a groove on the housing.

This is the spindle.

Every mower ought to have an air filter like yours!

How much end play should the two mower spindles have? Cub Cadet AGS 2140, 42" mower.

I'd use it. I have two mowers with pre-filters (foam wrappers) and they do a pretty good job of catching big stuff. Don't forget to clean it every now and then (or per manufacturer's recommendation). It won't mess with the mixture; they're pretty coarse and non-restrictive.

For me, I got the message and couldn't log on my regular way, which was one click of a 'recent' button. I think it started Saturday morning and has apparently fixed itself. Running Windows 10 and Firefox.

Anybody speak Russian? Is this spam or not?

2-cycle oil probably is the least demanding application an oil will ever see. It's in the engine for ONE crankshaft revolution before it's replaced with new oil.

Yes. I sent you a message with an explanation.

There was a spammer that posted in 40+ threads a couple days ago.

Rivets, it makes more work for the moderators if you do it that way. If multiple people report it silently, it's as if only one reported it. I delete the post; ban the poster and everything is cleared out, and no mystery messages left as orphans.

You came to the party late. The spam posts (40+) that Rivets reported were already deleted and the spammer banned before you logged on.

He has. Of course, he'll probably sneak his way in again.

I like to give things to them as well as buy. Right now I have a few fluorescent light ballasts to give them. A lot of the time you'll find brand new stuff there.

Just guessing. I see no use for VVT in an essentially constant speed engine. I've never seen an engine that had variable duration but I have a 4 cylinder that has VVT (Acura 4 cylinder).

Variable valve timing?

Do a search using "toro 2-cycle engine service manual" and you will see them for sale on ebay. Or you can download a pdf copy of the same manual at www.manuals.tobyk.com/toro/togts120.pdf

Disconnect the governor linkage and connect your throttle cable directly to the throttle shaft. Now you're the governor. I don't think a throttle stop will work because you'd want the throttle to open completely at rpm's below 4,000 rpm. Some kind of rev limiter set to 4,000 rpm would be nice...