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I think if there was an oil pump failure the first symptom wouldn't be no oil in the valve covers. First symptom would be letting the factory smoke escape from the crankcase when the rod bearings failed on the crankshaft.

The 4X90HU as listed in the OP is the model number of the MTD branded engine. That is a made in China engine for all practical purposed made for/by MTD.

Is the engine just idling and and doesn't respond to throttle input. Or is it running fast or faster than idle and not respond. If idling with no throttle input I would be suspecting broken/disconnected/missing governor spring.

Some decks do produce an oscillating hum.

To be the best help we will need the model and spec off of the engine label as well as the model and serial number of the mower. Too many variable to take into cosideration. But from the little that we have to go on sounds like you may not have spark at the plugs. Starter fluid or flammable...

With the speed that those blades turn I am wondering if it isn't a harmonic oscillation.

That should have the Kohler courage twin engine So expect starter issues. also the front wheels will experience the toe in/toe out issue which may not be repairable., and if not already converted used the spark advance module box on the engine and could require the conversion to DSI ignition...

That depends if taking into account of the fuel inlet failing out while connecting the fuel hose, or the fuel solenoid sticking shut due to the plunger corroding 2 weeks after installation of new carb

I am certain the cause is long term dirt ingestion due to an ill fitting air filter. Basically the rings are shot. Which would explain the difference in cold vs hot compression.

Depends on the color of the smoke.. Blue smoke would indicate oil burning which could be overfilled. Black smoke would indicate rich running like either a leaking carb or even fuel in the oil. And both conditions can develop if the air filter has been wet with anything including water, oil...

Rivets, I think I have located the problem. And the engine is toast. The issue is a compression problem, even though compression is in the normal range. The issue is running a compression check with the throttle open as recommended is giving the equivalent of a wet compression reading...

I know that is what is sounds like, but what is the chances the a new out of the box carb would have the same issue.

This engine mounted on a SxS will only idle if on full choke. Runs fine at full throttle, but immediately dies if even slightly taken off choke. Have adusted valve clearances, replaced spark plug, checked compression which is 95 and is within range for this engine. Have replaced carb, all...

Will need the model and spec numbers from the engine since there are several variations of engines and carbs depending on use. Did you install a repair kit when you had the carb off or just reuse the old parts.

Being a JD I am going to guess clogged or collasped fuel line between the carb, and the underseat fuel tank. Seems like every JD I have worked on this year needed new fuel lines.

Not sure I would trust those readings. But anyway the mininum on the Command twin should be 160 psi. I am thinking that you are running on one cylinder most of the time. Could be valve issue, but could also be ignition issue.

May not be battery voltage to the fuel solenoid on the bottom of the carb. Or I have also seen cases where the battery voltage will be present in the key run position but not the start/crank key position. But not continuing to run on carb cleaner makes me think that it isn't receiving power in...

From one of your pictures it looks like that engine has the 3/5 charging system. 3 amp half wave unregulated to DC and 5 amp AC for headlights.

It could be leaking slow enough to drain the fuel between the pump and the carb over a few hours, but not leaking bad enough to causing overfueling while running. And I would stay with the factory kit. Have had issues with aftermarket kits sometimes. Can be hit and miss and you won't know...

I would say there is a possible issue with the float valve not sealing and allowing the carb to overfill when sitting causing a flooding issue. The fuel pump is vacuum and will allow fuel to flow through it by gravity if the fuel level in the tank is above the fuel pump. Also the fuel solenoid...

If it takes 2-3 cycles to start I would be checking to make sure the choke is fully closing. If the engine cranks then nothing wrong with the solenoid. Now as far as the battery. Excessive cranking could of damaged the battery but you could also have an issue with the battery being faulty...

Correct belt. Actually the current superceded belt is 954-04060C. MTD products don't play nice with substitute belts. Needs to be OEM or OEM equivalent

The confusion is you are claiming to have a Briggs engine but the 143.008501 is a Tecumseh number not Briggs. If you actually have the Briggs engine the model type and code of the engine should be stamped into the valve cover. Sears claims that mower used the 331877-1449-G1 but need to...

@frett If you look to the right side of that plastic carb mounting plate there is a single bolt that may have the ground wire for the fuel solenoid connected to it. If you remove it the carb isolator plate comes off and you can then access the back side of that loose bolt to reinstall it.

The bolt on the right is a square head carriage bolt style that sits in a recess area at the back of the plastic carb backing plate. Try pulling out on that bolt while rotating it and it should go back into place. Then may need to find a way to hold it there while the carb is installed.

So some place between the engine through the wiring harness to the key switch to ground you have lost your ground. So broken wire from engine key switch. Bad connection at key switch. Failed kill in keyswitch, bad keyswitch to metal part of key mount, or bad connector of ground wire at...

I would start with checking and adjusting the valve clearance, and if that doesn't fix the issue then most likely would need further checking to determine if the ACR on the camshaft is broken.

The short answer is no. The longer answer is over the last few years dealer profit margins on wholegoods have become very thin.. What at one time was a 15-20% markup on mowers is now closer to 5-8%. And floorplanning can defer payment for a period but if it sits too long they also have to...

You will need to help us out getting us the model, type and code from the engine so we know if this is a 33xxxxx series or the 38xxxxx series or the 42xxxxx series engines.

That is a valid part number for your standard rings, but Briggs is showing a backorder on those rings. But the black smoke tells me that the choke is stuck shut on your carb. They will warp, swell the plastic shaft causing it to not open when the choke is release.

The fact that the kill tab on the magneto doesn't shut off the engine will also prevent the key from shutting off the engine and is only dying because the fuel afterfire solenoid on the carb is what is shutting off the engine, but will also prevent the safety system from shutting off the engine...

Probably my worse has been anything that is plastic. So pieces of tarps, bale string/wrap, panty hose, gets wrapped up around the base of the shaft and damage the lower bearing seal or just melt into a hard mass. Removed 2 inch diameter by foot long spring from a ladies blades the other day...

Some of the riding mowers I work on smell like they had been doing that.

Sounds like the kill wire that connects to the magneto isn't connected or isn't working. Could be a faulty coil in the aspect that the ground tab doesn't work but have never seen one. More likely not connected or something wrong with grounding circuit that is supposed to kill the spark when...

That is the thing he exactly what he was doing. The question is can you get the prosecutor to pursue charges, or are they going to kick it to civil court. And then the attorney will drag it out for 3-4 years making recovery time prohibitive.

I would start by removing any clutches if still mounted on the mower, and also remove the flywheel. If the clutch bearings lock up or the magnets come loose from the flywheel will give the appearance of a seized engine.

I suspect that you bumped something that is preventing the seat switch from sensing the operator in the seat. So could be that switch or a relay or harness that issue with that switch or relay.

That is something you have to watch when looking at pictures online due to the mirroring effect.

When back and fixed my typo.. Thanks. Too many numbers that looks similar.

Stens doesn't show a cross for the MIA12264 And the 435-050 crosses to the MIA11272 or Kaw 21163-2152 not the 21163-2154 that the OP engine uses. Don't know if the two are compatible but they don't cross to each other.

Charging system not recharging the battery. Is this mower new or used. If new needs to go to the dealer for further diagnostics and repair. If used then post the engine model number information so we can give further directions on testing. Testing between engines is similar but have...

Removal of the drain plug on push mower engines started in the late 90's and matured in the 00's. Started with enclosed decks and self proper units that preventing access to the plug even when they still have them. What really irritates me is finding a no drain plug engine on a front tine...

Down the center hole in your second picture with the o ring facing down so it sits into the recess in the bottom.. Then the emulsion tube on the main carb body holds it in place.

I am just wondering if the engine control handle isn't pulling the brake/kill release far enough and that little bit of shaking is enough to move it just far enough to work.

I am wondering if the switch isn't being opened properly when the handle is pulled and the shaking of the mower create enough vibration to open the switch to run Item 5 on this diagram https://www.gardenhirespares.co.uk/honda-hrg466c1-skeh-flywheel-ignition-coil-diagram.html Could also be...

Depends on where it is leaking from https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/equipment/27044/referrer/navigation/pgId/397612

If there is only one opening you will have to inch it out if possible. And you flex the flap to get it out and back in.

Looks like coil has an arrow on it. So the arrow will face you with the arrow pointing to the left. Which appears which will put the kill wire tab on top.

.010 and make sure the coil isn't mounted upside down.

need to push out the pivot rod item 7 https://www.partstree.com/models/tb-110-11a-a2bm711-troy-bilt-walk-behind-mower-2018/deck-assembly-4/