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Allow the engine to warm up first may help, or have it running at higher RPM when engaging.

Try a new or different grease gun. Sometimes Zerk fittings get plugged, but rarely.

You should have first verified using a tester that there was indeed no current at the plug. Then Replace the plug with known or new good one. Simple stuff first.

I strongly suggest that you clean it up and Sell it and buy a large Frame 30" cut Snowblower. That blade on a Lawn tractor requires weights, chains, a lot of room to turn around and will be just a pain to use. It is also slower than a snowblower and leaves banks which cause deeper drifts.

No sense checking valve lash if Grinding noises were heard. A bearing is gone away somewhere, or other expensive part.

Lots of info, but each type/model should be accompanied by source and price.

These schematics seem to differ. With Key ON check to see if there is voltage at the Yellow wire. If NOT, connect them to Ground. One appears to be to the seat occupied switch the other to coil ? Start engine and see if it will turn Off.

For 1/2 acre, a simple 48" cut John Deer LA 145 or in that range will do. My lawn is realtively flat, and I do not bag. I have a Sweeper and after mowing (discharging into Uncut grass) I do a quick sweep and dispose of clippings.

...What they said!...

If you can get $100 for a 10year old obsolete deck, take it. The hood can be repaired if you carefully clean and use some crazy glue only on the edges, then reinforce the backside with more glue and flexible plastic. Make friends with a local body shop also, for repair or advice. Hood should...

Enter the turn slower, one side in Forward motion, the other side slightly rearward.

Highly unlikely that points are 'floating' I haven't heard that term since the '60's and 8500 RPM. Gap at 0.028 after filing them flat.

I didn't know that tapered bearings were used on mower spindles. Carefully grease the new ones with wheelbearing grease and torque to spec or until they just begin to show resistance to turning.

You owe that Mechanic a case of beer and a night with ................

My recommendation is to purchase one with Solid front tires, pivoting (from Centre) front axle and a very comfortable and adjustable seat. Get or attach a small trailer hitch for yard wagons etc.

Put it on the Might Need it Someday Shelf inside a Plastic cup. Those cans tend to Rust Out. You can no longer buy the Good Carb cleaner in Ontario.

Run one of your booster cables from + battery to solenoid to verify if you have a bad cable. Remove and clean both connections to Solenoid and the smaller one(s) while you are in there.

Pull the Flywheel to be sure the Key is not deformed.

Whatever 303 is don't put anything on the belt. You may have matched a Thinner (Width) belt for the new one which rides higher (Tighter) in the Pulleys. Find the original part number and dimensions and go from there with the Kevlar Pricy belt.

Carefully clean ALL battery and Solenoid cable connections. Very carefully -with cap ON fuel tank- connect one booster cable to Positive on Battery and touch big connector on Starter Motor with the other end of same cable. There will be sparks. If it cranks, you may need a new Solenoid or...

Be sure to turn off the blades or push the button when reversing.

I have some "plumbers tape" 'All Round' that has multiple holes punched in it. Cut a length with 2 holes. Fold it tightly over the black area of the cable with holes aligning. Squeeze tight with pliers. Drill a small hole in the handle and fasten with a metal screw and washer to hold the...

I bought a seat for a Skid Steer or similar item with armrests. Seat Travel is the key. I had to chain it halfway down but now I have 3-5" of travel. These seats can be adjusted to your weight. Google Suspension Seats for farm use and see what you get. I had to fabricate a mounting plate so I...

Sounds Legit!

RTFM. The Manual should give you storage Instructions. Check with Dealer. I suggets storing the battery fully charged and check voltage every month.

Make sure the leaves are very dry before you start.

Sounds like a Lean Condition to me. Remove and deep clean the carb and add NEW fuel.

I have a big 6" vise in which I put a 3/4" long pin standing vertically. After beads are broken I slip the wheel over the pin and use Vise~Grips to keep the bead from following the tool. This has worked for small tires I have encountered. Use liquid soap for bead lube.

I suggest you try Astro-Turf.

If you have NO compression reading after quickly turning over the engine, either the Rings are totally gone or valves are not closing or you have a blown head gasket.

25% grade is quite steep. You should try one out on wet grass to be sure you can climb it with the new model.

It sounds like the compression release mechanism. Have a Load Test done on your fully charged Battery. Don't jump it from a running vehicle. Set valves Cold at the correct TDC. Check Manual for lash/gap.

If you still have it, raise the cutting height and be sure you have equal air pressure in rear tires.

If the correct belt (length and width) is on the idlers and other pulleys it is unlikely that it is slipping unless your pedal needs adjusting. Be sure the fan is the same Pulley size as original Hopefully you will not require a new Tranny. I did !

With a 2" wide long handled scraper, give it a scrape after every couple mowings. At the end of the season, turn it upside down, remove blades for sharpening and using the used oil you just drained out lather it on the underside and let sit over night on a gravel area. Check Belt and spindles...

Try cutting your grass shorter every time.

You have hit something very solid. Replace entire Spindle and the 3 Blades and Deck Belt Check other 2 spindles for looseness. Walk your area and find out what you hit. Something very solid.

Great photo. The JD grease fittings fill an empty void. Bearings top and bottom are sealed. Don't bother greasing them.

Aliens. leave a couple fired 12 ga. shells around the deck...........

You should have immediately completely drained Fuel tank and lines and Float bowl. Replaced Fuel Filter.. Replace Spark Plug. Refill with a gallon of Fresh Gasoline. Bought flowers for Wifey. She owes you now. The diesel would not have harmed anything in the Carb.. Strange the head gasket...

Clean and follow EVERY wire looking for chafed or shorting areas.

Double check that the Flywheel Key is not partially sheared on Crankshaft.

If you are sure that gasoline is getting into the Crankcase, perhaps someone put it in accidentally. Look for another problem although it seems you have carefully checked them all. 30 Std oil.

Yup, could be the Spark Plug.........

StarTech has it correct. Note: ACR has nothing to do with oil. Reset the valves cold @ 0.006" (6 thou.) then do the ACR test.

Perhaps you are trying to cut 60"! Make sure the grass is dry and not too long. Deck (gage) wheels may be set too low.

That is normal and the shiny area is where the cuttings along with dirt etc hit after the cut is made. Eventually it will actually wear through that area. Blades were correctly installed.

Make sure Switch is ON if it has one. You should be able to see gas moving in the lines when you push the primer. If it does not start on Ether, then it is an electrical problem

Blades look normal to me. I never mulch or aerate. Perhaps try cutting a notch lower and increase RPM and ground speed.

Use a Dial Indicator and mark High Side. A piece of pipe over the end of the protected shaft and lean on it. Check runout often and remember 'spring back'. Replace the seal if you get it 'good enough'.