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Yes, I do it all the time. On the old Briggs with aluminum carb there's no separate pilot jet or emulsion tube etc to get these things running. I just push the mower handles to the ground so the front wheels are off and so the carb won't leak when I take the bowl off from the half inch jet bolt...

Problem is there are only a FEW that do good work as you just said. I would say over 80% of them that I have seen either do things the wrong way or the hard way.

Yes, and most of this is because of the evil youtube! I tell people all the time to stay away from that and away from that rabbit hole because most every video I see either does things the wrong way completely or at least they do things the hard way. Most people do come up with the proper...

Looks like you're choke is in the closed position and it's only being forced open because many of those are on a spring and they can work against the spring and yours is bouncing back and forth as the engine surges. This could just be that the choke adjustment from the cable needs to be proper...

As someone else said earlier, do a thorough and proper diagnosis before you throw more parts at the machine. This happens way too often with homeowners and by the second or third attempt they stumble into it and get it right and it just creates positive reinforcement of doing a bad pattern in...

I'm sure it works fine for you and like I said, cleaning up deposits and other crap like that and the carbon buildup probably far outweighs any slight variation of the margin and the sealing surface from the angles being a little off or not quite as crisp . However, I think we can both agree...

At this point I don't think the owner has any idea what's going on other than the mower isn't fixed yet. The guy who owns the shop is insistent on it being perfect from what OP has posted and he's the one with unrealistic expectations. I bet the owner would have been happy right after it was put...

I have a fairly High hour woods mow n machine that's really a grasshopper with an underpowered bridge vanguard 12 horsepower or maybe it's a 14 but I think it's a 12 with a 44 inch deck and they should have stuck with the 16 they did a lot of or even the 18th but I run straight 40 Valvoline vr1...

I'm sure the owner would be quite happy at this point but he has some weird shop owner who wants it perfect and is going to put a lot more time and money into it or at least drive this tech nuts without even consulting the customer and seeing how happy is the situation currently which is what he...

I'm going to file this in the category of things that can't happen and aren't possible until I actually see it for myself. The problem is what's your definition of smoking?? What kind of smoke was it? Was it mostly white, mostly blue or mostly black and sooty? There should be no way that putting...

Now you know you're going to make some people's heads spin around talking about cleaning up valves and even daring to mention touching the sealing surface with something so unprecise as your finger!!! I don't actually think I've used Emery cloth on them or sandpaper but I have used the fairly...

Yep, I have hated that solenoid for decades because for 25 years it has been the most overpriced ripoff part on a lawn mower.. They were 48 to $68 minimum and many of them were right in the 90s like you just stated. I was so happy to see a few years ago when I started popping in for under $10...

Yes, especially if the fuel is kind of whitish with only a tint of blue when it first comes out and only for two or three seconds. That is a common sign that the carb is continuing to drip inside because the needle and seat are not shutting off properly and you'll get the smoke after it's sat...

Well, first of all I think your boss is being kind of a weirdo expecting so much perfection out of old used worn out parts. He should realize that's just not possible just like extreme lifespan isn't possible on a lot of this new equipment and you should never expect that or lead your customers...

Also, on these valves. The 31xxxxand 33xxxxx and most of these Briggs engines set with the Piston one quarter inch past top dead center so going down in the bore at least one quarter inch after top dead center when both valves are closed on the compression stroke, and even better if you want to...

Okay, several things. I understood from the beginning that you cut the plunger tip off and not the wire and someone else misunderstood that. That person did talk about doing that as a poor man's fix and the other text who insist on doing things a certain way of replacing Parts need to not worry...

Yep, seen that several times. Had three ladybugs blow out of an old John Deere stx38 if you see something to go. Had a Cub cadet zero turn that had these long 4-in strands of thick grass all the way down in the fuel line coming out when I pulled it off the fuel pump. Another thing I've seen...

A lot of things here but I'll try to cover the basics. Firstly, I'm never a fan of replacing Parts especially carburetors because they rarely ever wear out unless they're 20 plus years old and the throttle shaft has worn into the aluminum body and it's sucking air. That's about it. Nine times...

But this is kind of like best case scenario and not what the average person is going to experience not right now in the very near future. I've covered all this before and I cover it with facts not personal preferences. Personal preference wise, I hate most battery-powered things but not all. I...

For a long time the gasoline equipment manufacturers stayed far far away from battery but then they eventually saw the demand so most of them have gotten into them too. One big problem is they're actually driving the nails into their own coffin by making poor quality equipment like you...

As of now, it's not the best idea or most convenient for most people to go with battery powered equipment. There are several reasons for this but most of it boils down to the battery technology, capacity, and lifespan just isn't there and it's not where it should be especially for 2023. To be...

Heck, this was nothing. Some of the threads get revived years later but that's okay because it keeps people finding them when they search on things especially on the forums that have been around a long long time and that way people learn things.

True, and it's been a while for this thread but I believe it was a twin he was working on and those don't have the compressor release spring and finger and weight built into the camshaft like the single cylinders do.

From what I gather, many of these engines come to the manufacturer of the machine with simply the pipe plug stuck in them and often one on each side because they have multiple drains. They probably come with the foot drain thing that Briggs has used for a long time in a little bag with the...

It was the lines. Those fuel pumps hardly ever go bad and if they do they usually leak oil or gas all over the place and you know it. I hope you ordered one online for under $10 shipped and didn't buy one at a local parts store paying 50 or 80% more. These things are fairly generic and you do...

You can forget about wasting the time adjusting the valves for now. If it started and ran a little bit ago then it's not really a problem with the valves despite the fact they're probably looser than they should be cuz that's what they do but not a big deal until it gets hard to crank over. The...

Like I said, that's what I've done a lot because I just don't want to take the time to mess with them and I really don't like to hose people on the labor for just an install but you know time is time. As far as El cheapo, I don't know what model pump you're dealing with or unit but pretty much...

I feel you. Starting last year I lowered my stress level a lot with my shop I no longer taking everything that everyone wants to bring me. I streamlined the type of equipment I work on so now I turn down more than I actually take or about 50/50. For those pressure washers, I've been telling...

No reason to leave and no reason to ignore anybody. You do it your way and he will do it his. I'll probably do it a third different way and we'll probably all three get the same end result that fixes the problem and that's really all that matters. What matters to us individually it takes or how...

Typically, in that situation, it is the clutch switch. I'm not really a fan of bypassing that switch even for test purposes because it just usually doesn't go bad that often. Normally it's on an MTD especially bolens or yard machines or a John Deere where the plunger isn't getting pushed in...

I still think your carb bowl is getting low/running out of fuel after it sits. If low flow was the problem, it would not run good after you get it started. I always run my fingers around a bowl and in bottom after it's been parked for a few hours to see if fingers get wet from leaking gas.

Yes, the old ones had the drain plug and if you look on the one you have the aluminum boss is still there they just decided to not drought the hole tap it and insert the pipe plug somewhere back around 97 or so maybe as late as 2001 but somewhere in that vintage they stop putting drain plugs in...

The vibra-tach works fine but is more inconvenient than the cheap digital ones available on eBay and amazon. I can find a picture but don't have one currently. It's a little small black plastic box with a gray window with two buttons on the front. It's about an inch and a half by an inch and a...

I really can't tell enough from those pictures to tell if you have a governor that could work or not. Basically just check it with your finger. Push back against the governor rod as you give it some throttle at the carburetor and if you're getting resistance then that means the internal Governor...

Sometimes, you can do a lot of things but often it's just not worth it. Sure, in some engines you might be able to rotate it to bottom dead center enough to actually try to slide a wrist pin or the circlips out to slide the wrist pin out of the piston and then push it back up and pull the Piston...

I agree with a lot of this but not all of it has been my experience. It doesn't matter that Angie's were designed to handle 10% ethanol are not after a certain year. That just means the rubber and plastic parts are supposed to be a little bit more resistant to deterioration it doesn't have...

I'm not even going to bother to read through all of these comments, opinions, conjecture etc on ethanol because it's really a moot point at this time in history. Making it your mission or goal to only buy pure fuel now is awfully late in the game. It makes me wonder where a person lives or what...

Here's the deal.. Briggs had a number of their early first generation you could say in tech v twins that were wiping out the rings and under 100 hours. They replaced quite a few under warranty but you really had to keep after it and go through the proper channels but by quite a few I mean...

Their official chart states .004-.006 and.005 is right in the middle so that's all good too. Kohler has a similar controversy but it's actually worse because the numbers don't fall exactly in the spec range like the brakes does. For their Kohler courage engines you can look at two different...

That's .004-.006 on both valves on the Briggs OHV twins...per Briggs and Stratton. The singles are .003-.005 intake and .005-.007 exhaust. Both adjusted at 1/4inch past TDC of compression stroke for each cylinder.

Oh, I have certainly read it all! The problem is that was weeks ago. As We know This thread keeps getting revived because of all the notifications to people like myself that pop up in our email and then the link takes a straight to the last post and that is on a separate page which is...

I just noticed that the title says rebuilt engine hard to turn over so obviously something wasn't done right and the rebuild or some parts got interchanged or had the wrong sizes to begin with.

Do you have a history with this engine? You simply can't have an engine that's running fine for 3 years let's say and then it gets hard to crank over and then you find the rod clearance tight and then change the rod and it's okay. The only way this could be possibly possible is it it had been...

And if the forum wasn't set up or displayed and or emailed notifications oddly on mobile device..... A we wouldn't have this issue.

Now this confuses things even more. Unless you had the number one connecting rod somehow installed incorrectly or had a two flipped over and placed in that spot or something weird like that there's no way changing a connecting rod would magically make an engine that's hard to turn over start...

That's certainly how the numbers play out. I have repaired exactly two of the old Kohler mechanical pumps because the little diaphragm just pop out of the plastic and you can stake them back in with a hot screwdriver..

I'm going to estimate that approximately 80 to 90% of fuel pumps that are replaced we're never bad at the first place. It's one of those people throwing Parts at the problem and it rarely fixes the problem...at least not on the first time or two. A pulsator fuel pump is very easy to check. If...

On these Briggs & Stratton engines, head gaskets certainly have everything to do with oil consumption and is the most common reason for oil consumption or usage. The second most common reason for the oil to get low would be leakage and that would typically be around the Briggs & Stratton very...

Just don't idle it down before you drive it to barn. If it's mowing or moving...keep it at full speed. Ok to idle for a few seconds before you shut off switch but no reason to do over 10-30 seconds or so. I don't even check an air filter but maybe 1-2 times a year! Might wear the bolts out and...

Rare but it happens. Even though you have the new design 4 bolt air filter housing, I would make sure dirt is not bypassing and getting the inside of the D hole intake coated with tan dust dirt. That's the most likely way one with only140 hrs could show those issues. Unless it was never right...