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I didn't notice you saying you had spark. Remove the plug, hold it against the engine body with gloves or plyers and crank the engine. You should have a bright spark. Reinstall the plug, shoot some carb or break cleaner, or a shot of gas into the carb with the choke open. Turn the key and...

Leave the connector unplugged, pinch the fuel line just before the carb, using a thin 1\2" open end wrench, remove the solenoid. Gas will spill from the carb bowl. Catch it. If possible, leave the carb bowl in place. On the end of the solenoid is a little plunger. Many have rubber tips...

Meet the manufacture's oil specs and anything else may be wasted money. People think the more clear the oil, the better. Not true. Many costly additives go into making it clear. I run any full synthetic oil that meets the engines specs. Synthetic oil withstands much higher temperatures...

If you have not done so, remove the engine cover and you'll probably see the wires go across the top of the engine. Examine them and clean the engine while you're at this point. On some Briggs, the two wires go behind the starter and can get pinched there. An easy fix.

Here, in the US, you can free rent these at most auto parts chains.

I think these guys' wives kicked them out of bed. Sure we need more info, but to rag on someone new to the forum is not necessary. Vacation time anyone? Be nice, or be gone.

Hey OldDiyer, do those come with a YouTube instruction video?

One thing I noticed, on the second pic, the belt going around the lowest pulley on the left is not under the keeper. If the original belt is not routed correctly and under the keepers, it will pop off or break.

One thing I noticed, on the second pic, the belt going around the lowest pulley on the left is not under the keeper. If the original belt is not routed correctly and under the keepers, it will pop off

Old timer's trick, Use a straw with something sticky on the end of it (bubble gum) and carefully slide it down and push it onto the dip stick. If it's dry enough on the end, it will grab it.

I think the Briggs single cylinder engines have two different starters. The gears have different amount of teeth. 14 and 16, if I remember correctly. They have to match the flywheel gear which can be aluminum or steel. Wrong gear and you'll tear it up.

I am under the understanding that the blades do not get sharpened razer sharp. Even new blades are a little on the dull side?

Considering it ran before the brake adjustment, loosen it and see if you get back to where you started. Then look at the drive belts for cracking of burned areas. With the brake on, you should be able to turn the idler pulleys (depends on model).

On many mowers that have a 4 prong flat connector, there is a shorting tab in the mowers end connector. You'll see little tabs if you look at it from the open side of the connector. If you put an ohmmeter from pi to pin, they'll all measure 0. It's been a while and I don't remember wither you...

Hey Biggs, JD along with others, don't manufacture their own parts. They have suppliers for that. One unit I had, I just shimmed between the shoulder bolt and the sector gear to get a nice spacing. Use thinner washers so it can be put to where you like it. Also, it there a guide bushing 1\2...

Last one I had like that, I did like Hammermech. I oiled it for two days tapping on the hub each time. Then I used an air hammer putting a blunt tip on the rear at the joint of the hub tube and the hub. Spinning every min or so. When that didn't work, I heated the hub tube, which darkened...

Still check the tank

You may be able to get that at any auto parts store.

Check this out:

To align the steering straight. Remove the pinion gear from the bottom of the steering shaft, mark the ceter tooth of the large gear , place the steering wheel straight and while keeping this all in position put the pinion gear back on.

Couple things, You may have a bad battery, solenoid, starter or locked engine. You indicated 127mv at the starter lead of the solenoid when the key is turned. This should be 12v as the solenoid passes the 12 from the battery connection to the starter. If the solenoid is clicking and the...

Every pulley should turn very easily without and noise. They will heat up due to friction and tighten up. All arms and brackets should rotate freely. Use penitrating oil and force to free them, then lube with a good oil. If the PTO clutch clicks, then I would think it's working, but there is...

Clean the flywheel and mag\coil with emery paper and size gap to 0.010" (business card). Load from deck could be pulleys\spindle bearings. Check main drive belt routing and idlers.

If this is a hydro trans, there is a little arm\shaft on the panel between the two rear wheels that allows the mower to be manually be pushed. It must be pushed in for the mower to drive.

Jump 12v to the small connection of the starter solenoid and see what response you get. Nothing, probably a bad solenoid or ground on it. Clicks and rotates starter, then you're back to checking safety's and wiring.

Hey Cuckochris, you mentioned red Briggs fuel filter. Is it required on a Briggs or can paper filters be used, I do think the paper filters are finer micron in size.

I have heard this is common on the Husqvarna mowers

I have a similar problem, runs for a short time and dies, can't get restarted unless gas sprayed in carb throat. I did the things you did. I got an idea and took another gas tank and a length of new clear line and connected it to the carb. No shut off and no filter. Machine runs great. I...

I have the Kobalt electric and love it. Not good for2 acres, but it would be with additional batteries. Best thing for people that can't pull the cord. No gas, oil and routine maintenance except for keeping it clean (don't clean underside with water) and batteries charged.

Gas cap 1st

Plug it and drill a tiny hole in the gas cap if you don't want to spend the money on a vented cap.

Even at 12.4v, the head lights should work, unless this is a unit that runs off alt and engine must be running. Sounds as if no 12v to the ign switch.

Another trick is to lightly coat the area with flour. It is magnify the leak spot.

Penny saved is a penny earned, especially if machine is at a shop.

Time to clean that work area, Dude. Safety first.

On the anti-fire solenoid, rather than just removing the rubber boot, cut the little shaft close to the body with side cutters. Once everything is running correctly, replace the solenoid if you wish. Not cheap.

I have received one of those carbs where the fuel seat was not pressed in far enough. I think these are either untested, or failed units they sell. Cost more for them to take the return than to just ship another. I have the same running issue, ( not electrical) on two Kohler single cylinder...

I have received one of those carbs where the fuel seat was not pressed in far enough. I think these are either untested, or failed units they sell. Cost more for them to take the return than to just ship another. I have the same running issue, ( not electrical) on two Kohler single cylinder...

I have received one of those carbs where the fuel seat was not pressed in far enough. I think these are either untested, or failed units they sell. Cost more for them to take the return than to just ship another. I have the same running issue, ( not electrical) on two Kohler single cylinder...

I have the exact problem with a Kohler SV590 19hp. The governor brackets were previously adjusted and I think I got them close. Almost idles with choke partically on, spits fuel out when throttle increased. More than one OEM carb and one China carb. Mine does have a mixture screw, but little...

I think he meant disconnect the kill wires from the coils.

I have done all but recutting the valves. I have good heads for the single Kohlers, but not a twin. May pass on this.

Can they go in without a press? I have seen how to peen them. Thanks again for your help

Thanks, how would I repair the guides? Matter of just pushing them back in?

Hi All, What would cause a Kohler 25hp engine to bend two push rods? I am considering buying a used mower with this issue. Don't know if in one cylinder or both.

I think Chris and Zue on on track.

I usually go midway between specs. .006 and .008

If your machine has a fuel pump, it will be a black round plastic device with 3 houses attached. It will be in the path from the carb to the tank. One house from the tank, one to the carb and the other to the engine. The are used when the tank is under the seat or somewhere else that puts is...

Disconnect the starter at the solenoid, then the battery from the solenoid, then the blue wire from the solenoid to see if the fuse blows. This this helps then either the solenoid or starter is bad. Check to see if there are wires running behind the starter. These will get smashed easily. If...