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These carbs are sensitive to adjustment, a little bit goes a long way!

You might consider that,most mowers have a vertical shaft engine, there is a simple reason.....

Sounds like a carburetor problem!

yep!

Finally got the Generac rockers & pushrods in yesterday, got it assembled, and now their out, happy and mowing!

I guess it was more than a couple years ago...you what they say, time flys when you're having fun!

Yep, won't run good with the EX plugged up. When an engine won't run or won't run right, the cause can be MANY. It is hard and sometimes impossible to diagnose over the internet, but several of us try. It takes HANDS ON to do the real repair! Glad you got it fixed!

hahaha.....can ya relate to that?

You got that right!

Shindaiwa did merge with Echo a couple years ago.

We are a Shindaiwa dealer......last month, a guy brought in a trimmer that he said was at least 20 yrs old, wouldn't start and wanted me to get it running. He bought a new T235 as he left the store so he would have 2 trimmers. I ordered a new carb, installed it and that 20 yr old trimmer ran...

That is a good report !

"Could it be the ground cable running from the battery to the solenoid".....this could be your problem!

I agree

Spark plug gap is .030

Took 3.5 weeks to get Generac engine parts.....crazy

Everyone has all these BIG OLE 1/2 " 3/4" air impact stories.....your air impact is only as stout as the Air PSI you put through it! Looks like HammerM has got some PSI.

Right, but we're talking about a simple mower blade nut...or bolt here!

Ok...not that expensive new, or is it?

IMO...any counter balance mounted on a crankshaft eccentric, moving up & down to try to balance an engine, is a bad idea....it's just more parts to break and I have seen several break, even new. Should have been balanced better before it went into production.

Even when everything is right with those engines, they are noisy, and vibrate too. The way they have those counter balance weights on the crankshaft.....SMH......well, it's just the nature of that model of engine.

Don't do it!

However you do it, make sure ALL your tires are aired up to spec and don't leak out....or it won't matter how level you get it, it won't stay level.

I have not seen a blade nut or bolt that I couldn't get off ANY mower In my 17 yrs at the mow'in house with my Matco 1/2" air impact.....not because the Matco is crazy stout (which it is though) but, because all I did was disassemble cars & trucks for 25 yrs in an Auto Salvage.....I figured out...

The connecting rod can score the crankshaft, not the camshaft!

I always cringe, and laugh at the same time when someone says they use starting fluid for trying to find an air leak or prime a carb......that sh*t will blow your a** up!

I have never seen a cam shaft scored from where the connecting rod rode!

We are a shindaiwa dealer located in Mo.....you should be able to order that from any shindaiwa dealer, give your local dealer a call!

Yes, some caps have a resistor in them, some don't.

You said in original post, you can see the starter spin but doesn't lift to engage the flywheel,....does the starter spin the right direction? Do you know which way it should spin?

The mounting bolts and or mounting brackets have probably came loose or broken off, letting the wheel motor skew. Solution is to 1st, find out why its a skew!

After doing what BertsM suggested...I would start testing all the interlock safety switches, then the ignition switch and trace the 12v there if you have it.

It will do that because, with a battery pack, it spins the engine quite a few more RPM's than with the regular battery, and it pulls a lot more air through the carb, through the venture and across the E-tube, creating a siphon effect for the fuel in the bowl to come up the E-tube and prime the...

I have also seen Black battery cables on + side, at the battery and or the solenoid and Red cables on the ground or all Black or all RED....just double check with both, your eyes and follow them with your hands to see where they go!

You might be able to build / add a shield under it, that way you would have 2 shields.

Yep, you want all spindles and pulleys to spin free with no grinding or noise!..Of course new, grease packed parts will be stiffer but smooth because of packed full of grease!

Everyone has to learn sometime, we all started somewhere, sometime but......just realize, the learning curve can be sharp at times!

Sounds like it's what ScubC said in post # 3...check all that out.....all that!

It will depend on your personal preference, how much $$$ you have, how much you like the mower you have and if you want another mower sitting around for parts or......in the way! You are you, we are not.....you have to decide!

Might be an easy fix. Find out where exactly the fuel is leaking from, then see why it's leaking there.....remove, disassemble, repair.....easy!

There is a difference in 2 stroke oil, just like all other oils! Red Armor is the only way to fly in my book. It's designed to create LESS carbon build-up - has excellent LUBE properties and has a fuel stabilizer in it that Red Armor says keeps fuel good for an exxxxxxxxtended amount of time!

Could you have hooked the battery cables up backwards? ......Sometimes a battery has posts opposite of what was taken out.....seen it happen! Starter will even spin backwards....seen it!

Lets just face it....elec mowers are not going to cut like a gas powered mower, TOO MUCH of a power difference. So, if you're going the elec route, you're going to have to deal with the cut it provides!

Sometimes popping through the carb can also mean valves out of adjustment or a valve train timing problem also, besides the carb......really need to try to isolate the problem or it's easy to chase everything, and get nowhere! Always check spark plug 1st, if it don't fire right, not much else...

Might as well die happy...haha!

That generally means it's starving for fuel. Could be partially plugged fuel lines, fuel tank outlet, fuel filter or carb.....start with blowing out all fuel lines then, proceed up the list, if needed.

Try this, put the choke on SLOWLY as it's running, and see if it smoothes out at any point.

I'm wondering if anyone on this site races mowers........yes, that's a real thing!

I'd say a lawn service in that area should have a good idea of what it takes. I'm here in the center of the USA and here, rain / water is the most important thing for a green lawn.

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