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When the deck is pulled all the way up, the deck should move forward. Do you see a part number on the belt?

Does the solenoid just click once when the key is turned on? Or clicks a bunch?

I cannot tell much from the pic, but the panel I have circled should be held on with 2 screws, if so, remove them. The forward/reverse lever should be in the center. If not, see if you can take a better pic of that area.

Many models the pulley can be easily accessed by removing the plate over the f/w shifter between the legs. You are right on top of it. Other models you had to come upon from underneath. Put up a picture of the whole mower from a distance.

If you have the pic on the computer, just do a screenshot/snip of it, it will load here easier. Just go to your "snipping tool".

Take off the air cleaner and snap a few pics, it would give us more info. One shot with the choke open, and the other closed.

The center sheave moves up and down, giving the rear end a variety of speeds like a 10 speed bicycle. I have been known to give a light squirt of wd-40 there, but since the belt runs on both sides, just a quick little squirt.

The old MTDs had a variable pulley system, and from time to time the center sheave will stick. While running, and the f/r lever in F, move the speed selector from P to 1, then 2, then 3, until the tractor starts moving. Use the footpedal to ease the tension on the shifter a tad. As you...

Until you get the pics loaded, put up the full model/type/code numbers.

If it is running like that, try to partially close the choke and see if it runs better.

Saw this on you tube.

The older engines had a metal/asbestos clad gasket, which I have been know to reuse. I would wait until you know the condition of your engine before buying anything.

I would wait until after pulling the head, before ordering parts.

After reading the last posts, I am leaning toward valve lash. With that engine on that model, it is even more complicated. Removing and installing those valves can be tricky without the right tools. But I would take a peek under the head gasket, your engine could be badly worn, and a proper...

https://www.partstree.com/models/33r877-0009-g1-briggs-stratton-vertical-engine/?msclkid=349f3d02c3b91e5b9bdd59c07cde120b

From the looks of the air filter, it is an older engine with points, so I would look there first. The points are under the flywheel, so generally it is much easier to just snip the wire to the points, and bolt on a new electronic coil, so no need to pull the flywheel. On a Snapper, getting...

If you have the top off, snap a pic of the flywheel/coil area. The last set of numbers on the stamped model numbers is the date code. If it starts with the numbers 83/84 or less, then it has points, as that looks like the original coil. You may still get a flash on your ignition tester, as...

Could just be a layer of water still in the bottom of the carb, so look at the fuel that dribbles out.

When the block warps, the valve seat also cocks a bit, so it has a poorer and poorer seal, and creates even more heat, making things worse. So a proper valve job would be in order, cutting the seats and valves, not just lapping. But this is all just speculation, which is why we do...

If the first 2 digits of the third set of numbers are 84 or less, then the engine had points at one time. But I am leaning toward the valve clearances, as that also happens a lot. When overheated, the block warps slightly, and the valve area will drift slightly toward the tappets, making the...

Tried all of the stuff? What are the valve clearances then? Just because you see a spark is meaningless. You need to listen to folks that have worked on this equipment for a living. Why would I wish you to check your valve clearances? Why would I ask you about the ignition?

2 things to consider. 1. Your engine may have points/condensor, which can cause screwy symptoms. If you need to repair that, just snip the wire going to the points, and install the electronic coil. No need to pull the muffler. 2. Take off the valve cover and check the valve clearances...

Got a pic or two?

So you watched the rocker arm travel?

Take off the rocker cover again, and watch the rocker arms moving while rotating the engine by hand, see if they both open/close the same, that the valves are opening about the same distance, etc..

Your carb is likely gummed up with old gas. Only some trimmers used bulbs, they pull fuel into the carb to purge out the air, not primer the engine. The choke is used to pull the fuel into the engine.

You guys are getting cranky.

To put up a pic, pull the image up on your computer, then go search "snipping tool". Put that snip up here instead.

Are you in Europe?

https://www.ereplacementparts.com/echo-srm250e-straight-shaft-trimmer-brushcutter-parts-c-35043_35180_35640.html

https://www.ebay.com/itm/194807235423?hash=item2d5b6a835f:g:5vQAAOSwexdiAr2X&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAAwDd4DseNgmjDBYt1s%2FD8YlQeiXhwTz%2FGQkc3U%2BnE91T8BkQB3cTkl%2BOZ4LQ11IOC5W6PrBrnu0vKK8S1kgcCS6Ztnls%2FVcs0nnNWgp9Oo%2Bqi2jWkHf4eXsqtEwDnloMKrnmF710gXUXdUmOy%2Btf%2BXH2GYwUaPaFQCwVM3foItht3Lq5kReAlC5G...

Put up a good pic of the air filter, that might help me narrow it down.

https://www.ereplacementparts.com/echo-srm250e-straight-shaft-trimmer-brushcutter-parts-c-35043_35180_35640.html

It is not a Stihl. Maybe Echo.

Usually the "damage" to the cylinder is just pasted on metal from the piston, but you need to pull it down to see. But before that, you should try to find out what caused the failure.

I thought that he was getting around to new air filters, as they most likely need replaced.

So he needs #21?

Here is the blowup of the filter area with part numbers.

Does your trimmer have a solid steel driveshaft, or the flex one?

Go to the Stihl chainsaw fans page on Facebook, larger files can be loaded there.

The one that covers the rest is too large of a file.

Here is the powerhead.

https://www.s-technika.lt/3-8/F1037/

Any tags/numbers on the transmission?

To easily do photos on your computer, put the photo on your screen, then go to the pop up menu search, and type in "snipping tool" or "snip", and take a snip of your pic, and use that to upload here.

When it is running, does it even out if you partially close the choke?

Is that the one with the jet that gets easily lost?

Here lately I have been buying the cheap FS38 trimmers, selling everything from the shaft down on e-bay, and slapping the powerhead on what used to be fs90/91 trimmers, and it works good. It even runs the chainsaw head attachment well.

Sometimes a pic helps, I have taken a cheap wrench before to the grinder to make it slender.

Around here, we clip the needle tip off, and go cut grass. If there is a back/after fire problem, then we will seek a replacement [maybe]. If that is the problem, that is. If you are about to order another one anyway.