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Take the gear head off, and buy a foot of keystock that fits in the hole. Lock it in a vice, and with a chisel, tap the trimmer head lightly in the direction of removal. Several taps should get it loose again.

This is what I have gone back with in the past.

You want to get long ones with the straight thin shank. Wiha is the best. https://www.wihatools.com/products/torxr-power-bit-t27-x-150mm-5-9?_pos=1&_sid=67f8e4ef5&_ss=r

Put up a pic of what you have.

One think to look at, with the valve cover off, rotate the engine by hand and watch the movement of the rocker arms. Make sure that they travel the same distance up and down.

I'll upload the manual on the Stihl Chainsaw fans' Facebook page, just go to the file section.

The technician's repair manual? This manual is good to have.

I tried uploading the manual but it is too large. P.M. me if you want me to e-mail it to you.

The "L" is the low speed mixture screw, and turning them to the left richens it up. The "H' is the one farthest from the engine, and it richens the same way. There are usually limiters that you cannot richen them and further without removing the limiter caps. So turning them both left to the...

Put up the numbers off of the carb. Just richen the mixture screws a tad.

Probably a blown head gasket.

It likely is rusted internally.

Those housings are a good seller for me.

Here is the one that likely applies.

That is just the one telling you to keep the grease away from the flywheel, it is on pretty much every model.

Go buy a few sizes @ 10 cents, and see which one fits when you get home.

Sorry, there should be a spec number. It will tell us which ignition it has

What engine brand, model, and serial numbers?

Water should be at the bottom.

Do not use any fuel put into any plastic container that is not approved for gasoline. You could destroy your engine.

No, I used to sell the non-safety semi-chisel, it had the yellow color code. I preferred the semi chisel myself, it stayed sharp longer.

The green/yellow designation refers to the safety features, not the chisel shape. They recently switched their stock bar/chain to a cheapo .050 ga. bar, so they may have not gotten a lot of .325 .050 chain loops yet.

Yeah, it was an oddball series that never really took off, I rarely see any around here. Hard to find parts for.

Has he removed the muffler and looked at the piston yet?

Put up a pic or two of your carb, so we know what you have.

Why do you think that the key is sheared?

Also a pic or two of the top cover of the engine?

Can you give a pic of it from the side, so we can see the side of the pulley?

I searched around for a parts list online, more results under Swisher. But no manual. Do you have any books on it?

Whoever put that on really didn't want to drive to town to buy a damn nut!!! Hammer and chisel, try to move it ccw.

You don't want one.

https://www.searspartsdirect.com/model/63c472wiog-000247/craftsman-486248392-snowblower-attachment-parts

https://www.appliancepartspros.com/agri-fab-belt-5-8-47846-ap6537970.html?msclkid=f73a06e98cdc13d7721f633267ee16a9&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Campaign%20%23%20-%20Part%20Numbers&utm_term=Agri-Fab%2047846&utm_content=001

Make sure that all of the bolts that attach the transmission to the frame are all there, if the ones in the front fall out then everything will flex the more load is on it, like going uphill. And the flexing may let the belts slip.

The clunk is the clutch engaging. You need to determine that the blades are not locked up.

Is the damage on the bottom? closer to the exhaust valve? Crud packed on the outside from the area? Same area on both sides?

Look closely at the bottom of the spindle and the bolts, etc.. Look for wear/slop.

Unplug the wires and do a reading of the two wires from the alternator. Should read @ 28 volts AC at full speed.

Put up the Briggs model numbers, so we know what you have.

Also, the gasket between the carb and the intake needs to look like this one.

I see that you said that you went back to the old fuel line, then try just richening the low mixture screw. It would be the one on the top right. You may need to pull off the plastic limiter.

They are molded at 2 different lengths.

It is a purge bulb, should return fuel to the tank, no need to fill, it pulls fresh fuel through the carb, purges the air out. The fuel lines on this model are real hard to mess up.

Looks like you need a new fuel line.

It depends on how accessible the engine is, some ztrs have them boxed in pretty tight.

Can you put up a pic and engine model number?

What is this thread about?

It may vibrate a bit more.

If it does, then we can talk about how to richen up the air/fuel mix.