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To check the stator you need to test the AC voltage output. Unplug the stator from the harness, put your DVOM on the AC scale. One lead on one side of the plug and the other lead on the other side of the plug. Run the engine at high idle. You should see above 26 volts AC. If so, the stator is fine.

The bolt pattern would be the same for both. As far as crankshaft, there is a good chance they would be the same (1” x 80mm) is standard. But of course you would have to confirm. OHV is better than the flat-head. Both models were very reliable.

You’re likely correct. Line is not on the carb of course, but someone could make that mistake.

Is the engine FR600V_S15? ( the _ being A, B, etc) Has the carburetor been replaced? There is no such line above the fuel line on an OE carburetor. I’d like to see a picture.

Assuming it is electric start, is there power to the solenoid on the bottom for the fuel bowl? Can you hear or feel it click? Not sure what you are referring to with the comment about the air out a pinhole in the carburetor. There is no line going back to the tank from the carburetor.

You wrote that you had spark and fuel present. There is still the low compression issue. You would need to identify why. Do a leak down test is where I would begin. Or, replace this engine with an FS481VGS01S, 14hp two cylinder if you don’t want to buy a new mower. The FB460V was a great engine...

Note the 24 ft-lb is for new bolts. If reusing bolts, 18 ft-lbs.

Those China carburetors are cheap for a reason. What is the model code of this engine? Also, minimum compression is 55 psi. So, you are too low.

It will be the FD731V_S00 spec for Ferris. Doesn’t matter whether it is AS00, BS00, etc. It is not the only liquid cooled engine ever made. It is the latest of the vertical shaft models built. Now discontinued. Kawasaki still has three liquid cooled, horizontal shaft models in production.

When I think of "huge amounts of water", it would be from rain or pressure washing for example. Then engine can form condensation from short runs where the engine doesnt get to operating temp. But its not making huge amounts of water.

Crankcase or muffler is full of water.

Is the backfire out the intake or exhaust? How many hours?

That is within spec.

I respect that. Lets back up. You confirmed earlier that the engine will run on either cylinder. Is this only with starting fluid? Do you have a fuel pressure gauge?

It doesn't take a lot to work the pump. Probably only around 1 psi.

The BS21 is carbureted. I guess I jumped the gun assuming that this question was DFI related as a carbueted pulse pump would be rather easy to diagnose. My apologies, Tim. If this is a carbureted engine, the diaphragm works from positive and negative crankcase pressure created by piston...

This engine has two fuel pumps. A diaphragm pump, which creates the fuel lift and flow. This acts as a helper to the electric fuel pump. The electric pump does not have enough suction power to pull from the tank itself. But, it does provided the necessary fuel pressure to the throttle body. So...

Seriously. We don't know your capabilities. As @StarTech wrote, you are missing something or something isn't as you are reporting. What do you have for fuel pressure?

You wrote "tested injectors they work" !? Sorry, I recommend that you take this mower in to a professional. Good luck.

Try fresh fuel.

@cableguy52 , is the malfunction indicator light flashing? By stating that the injectors work, how was this confirmed?

You wrote "injectors not firing". If it will start and run on either, then I'm missing what the issue is.

No speed sensor. Injectors are controlled thru the ground circuit of the ignition coils. Check for continuity of the ground wires to the coils and good connection at the coils. Check the connector at the control unit mounted on the radiator. Make sure there isn't any corrosion or damaged pins.

First, 3600 is not WOT. The only time a governed engine is at WOT is when it is at full load. With the throttle is at the rabbit, is high idle, not WOT. Second, it is normal to have to choke the engine on restart. When the key is turned off, the fuel solenoid prevents any more fuel from being...

They are likely not OE parts. Good luck with them.

Ignition coil. Disconnect the ground wire from the coils and then pull one plug wire. If engine still runs, replace that coil. If it quits, its the other.

You are correct. You will not likely get the parts out with a magnet. I'm not even sure you would be able to see with a borescope, but it would be worth a try. I highly doubt both pushrods would go into the crankcase. Please update when you find out.

I've seen one wrap itself around the camshaft. Not likely getting it out without pulling the crankcase cover. If the pushrods did go in. Borescope?

It is possible to drop a pushrod due to incorrect adjustment, and it could go down the windage hole and into the crankcase. I don't see how both pushrods would do this.

It does look lean in the picture, yes.

The BPR4 is correct. But, pf course would have nothing to do with compression. Valve lash is good at .004". What were the compression numbers?

Highly recommend you keep using that fuel. Typically the low power is from an issue with a cylinder. Like, an ignition coil. Running poor, then better may be a fuel quality issue. Low power, coil or valve lash possibly. Good luck.

There is no "should be". 80 to 100 is good compression. The minimum for this engine is 64psi. 100 is more normal. You might check valve lash it could bring the 80 up a little. Check this first and retest before tearing anything apart. I would also run some Seafoam in the fuel for several hours...

At least you are making the attempt and learning, give yourself credit for that.

Unless the engine was apart before and not reassembled correctly, there really is nothing to get stuck. And on this engine, it would be difficult to mess up unless one is really not paying attention.

"New oil pressure switch, regardless of brand, doesn't mean it works like a new switch." WHAT? That makes zero sense. Sure heat can have an affect on viscosity, but that is not the issue here. Do you think that is what makes oil pressure? Top shroud? Valve maintenance? Yes, these are all...

If the engine is overheating, one has bigger problems than a low oil light coming on. Please educate me as to how a low oil light would be a temperature issue. Thanks

Cooling system would not have an effect on oil pressure.

That should be sufficient oil pressure for no light activation. Likely a bad switch. You can unhook it and be rid of it, as long as you keep your oil full and check regularly. Or, replace the switch after also confirming the wires and connectors in the circuit.

Yes, that would be a good place. Also, do not over torque it! Either by installing the gauge or reinstalling the OPS. If you over torque, you'll crack the crankcase and your game over! All techs and DIY'ers keep this in mind. It's aluminum, use proper torque!!

From Kawasaki, all engine models are 3 year warranty. I wish it was as you wrote.

Use to be..FX are now single barrel as well. Just so you know..

What is the oil pressure? Usually, the detect pressure for the switch is less than 14 psi or so. Oil weight won't matter much. The threads to the ports where you might attach a gauge is 1/8" British pipe thread. Get the correct adaptor to prevent thread damage.

All of which should be of no real concern to most owner/operators. The FR is available with 1-1/8" diameter crankshafts, OEM specific. Again, of no concern to the owner/operator.

Both have the same long block. The FR crankcase is cosmetically different, but internal components are the same. The FR uses a different air filter design. The design of the FR is not the best application on a zero turn mower application, where the engine is out in the open. The FR engine is...

Likely a loose or corroded connection in the charging circuit. This, or a short to ground is why fuses fail. It is amperage, not voltage. It might be possible for the voltage regulator to short internally, but this would be rare on a solid state component. Any relays would be mower side, not engine.

No gasket, just sealant. Kawasaki p/n 92104-0007. Or, Threebond 1211 or equivalent. Pulling the engine would be the most labor intensive part. I highly recommend you replace all snap rings with new. And, make sure you get the washers back in the same place.

There is a lobe on the camshaft that works the shaft and and the fuel pump. This lobe has likely worn out. Camshaft will need to be replaced. This original camshaft gear was plastic. Deere required this for noise reduction. The replacement camshaft will have a steel gear.

If the delay is due to the governor shaft sticking, this would be unusual as the moving parts are behind the seal. These parts are sitting in oil, so there is no need to spray any lubricant. If, what is happening is when you go from low to high idle (turtle to rabbit), the rpm response is...

What mower is it on? Check the 6 pin connector where the engine connects to the mower , for loose wires or corrosion.