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When it stops, is there fuel in the bowl? Will it restart right away?

I wouldn’t classify the FR is prosumer. It is great for well kept lawns on residential lawn tractors (with a hood). On any zero turn (sit or stand) I would only use FT or FX. On wide area walk, FT, FS or FX. Any FR powered zero turn needs to not have a bagger installed and needs to have diligent...

My bet is that the choke will help.

I highly doubt it is a heat issue with the fuel or carburetor. If it is believed so, why not try to let it cool down before raising it up? Is there any presence of fuel getting in the oil? It really sounds more like a ignition coil issue. The engine is hotter after 5 minutes shut down than it...

@StarTech, true statement on the green mark up.

No, the coil number would not change. The Kawasaki coil should show 21121-2085 on it. Does it? If you disconnect the ground wire and there is still no spark then it can only be a failed coil or the magnetism of the magnet on the flywheel is too weak or the air gap is too large. The air gap is...

I believe that is the correct John Deere part number for the JS00 spec. I don't have a JD cross reference. Have you tried disconnecting the ground wire to the coil and seeing if the spark returns?

If a genuine Kawasaki part, what is the part number of the coil?

Good. Where did you get the ignition coil, is it genuine Kawasaki or off brand? What is the air gap set to?

Hi, Is power applied to the ignition coil ground circuit. This would damage the diode internal to the coil potentially. Is there no spark when you go to restart, is that what you mean by "blows the ignition coil"? Or, what is happening to give the impression that it is at key off? My initial...

As @slomo wrote, remove the main jet and the emulsion tube would normally slide right out. You can give it a push from inside the venturi. You will see the brass top sticking up. Be careful with the soft aluminum and brass, It is best to grind the flared sides off a cheap screwdriver to get in...

Happy to help. Pack that connector with dielectric or EP wheel bearing grease. If you power wash, be friendly around those/all connectors. Cheers

Although I'm not sure of anything scientific, some equate 1 engine hour to approximately 50 miles. So with this theory, 7500 divided by 50 is 150. Recommended oil and filter change is at 100 hours. So I would call this pretty close.

Check the connector at the ECU. Make sure there is no corrosion or damaged pin(s). The schematic for the power wire for the pump is provided by the Scag wiring harness.

I'm curious, what difference would the length of the filter make? How much time do you want the oil in the filter opposed to lubricating and cooling the engine? We're talking .000156" difference in micron rating. I highly doubt it will make any difference at all. Micron rating is not the only...

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Yes, it is normal. When you turn off the key, the solenoid on the bottom of the carburetor bowl prevents fuel from going through the main jet and into the venturi. During the last few revolutions of the engine, before it comes to a complete stop, the tiny bit of fuel still in the emulsion tube...

If you are using Valvoline VR1, this is a healthy 1400 ppm of zinc. The foam filter is intended to keep larger debris away from the filter media which can extend the life. A lot of people lift the cover, view the foam and think it looks good, but never check the paper media below it. My...

If you are not in extreme conditions and inspect your filter regularly and replace when necessary, you will be fine. Do not blow filters out to try to extend the life, they are paper. Do not oil the pre filter. Proper filter inspection involves removing the filter and also checking the bottom...

KAWKIT2 is not a genuine Kawasaki part number. It might be made up of Kawasaki parts, yes, but the “kit” is not a product of Kawasaki. 🤣🤡

Provide the genuine Kawasaki part number. I’d like to see this genuine kit.

By posting the conversion kit, yes sir, I consider you part of the clown show. Also by false advertising your kit as "genuine Kawasaki heavy duty air filter conversion kit". The kit parts might be genuine, the part numbers might genuine, but there is no such kit from Kawasaki.

Clown show as usual with these fools on here. 🤡 The FR engine is rated with the FR filter. Kawasaki is going to follow the law and and are not going to recommend the swap, would be my guess. If it were me, I probably would have made sure I was buying the correct engine/mower for my needs. FR is...

Of course they are not going to tell you to do any modification. That would be a violation of Federal law. Give them a call and ask them. This is unedited from their website. “NOT FOR SALE TO CALIFORNIA DUE TO EMISSIONS RESTRICTIONS - all other states please check your local emissions laws...

What you are seeing is completely normal. There is a great deal of windage happening inside the crankcase. Why would you feel the need to remove a dipstick on a running engine in the first place? If you do this at high idle, you will see even more. Only remove the dipstick with the engine...

The bolts are not provided by or installed by Kawasaki. Ferris builds the mower. The only time I’ve seen this is when either a mower was dropped coming off the back of a truck or the operator was going over curbs, causing a jolt to the mower. You’ll probably want to wait on a reply from...

What an unprofessional clown you are. 🤡

@bertsmobile1 I can agree with the fact that there is less of an issue with EPA for putting an FS730V carburetor on and FS651V model, for example. But would I as a professional make this recommendation? I would not. Anytime you are messing with EPA regulated components, it is not best practice...

@7394 @smalltimerpm @amowingfool Your ignorance and arrogance is showing. You should tend to be a little more professional. People might be counting on you for correct information. Try educating yourselves...

Federal EPA regulations. LOL

Question 1, carburetor. Question 2, technically yes, but not legally.

Very sorry, I guess I was not reading carefully. The only way to obtain a service manual from Kawasaki is through your local dealer.

Kawasaki hasn’t had US distributors since 2002, so it’s been a while. 😉

FYI, the phone number for the Engines Division, customer service is 877-364-6404. For most issues you will be referred to your local Kawasaki Engines dealer. You’re welcome to try the number Rivets provided. If you get what you need, great!

The FR651VAS11 is at the same website. For rebuild parts, rings, gaskets, seals, they would be the same for both engines.

https://www.kawasakienginesusa.com/parts-and-support/parts-lookupa7eb.html?aribrand=KWE# Simply type in your engine model.

15004-0985 is what is on this engine. The current replacement part number for Kawasaki is 15004-1063. The phone number listed above will not be able to help with this information. This is for the Powersports group.

15004-0985 is the number.

The part number can be found on the carburetor body. You will see a number like ‘40826’. Kawasaki’s part number would be 150040826. As far as a illustrated parts manual, you can use a FR691V-AS32 for example. It is the S32 that is important, not the A, in this case. Big Dog and Hustler are...

I was just trying to answer the question and look where that went. If I would have posted best practice, someone else would have posted something else. Like LawnWizard wrote…”a simple question”… Sorry LawnWizard, didn’t mean to offend, like I started off by commenting originally. I don’t know...

You're the one that started your post with "Please forgive me if this is a stupid or redundant post". Sorry that you are now butthurt.

Didn't write anything about installing pistons from inside the crankcase. You can remove the head, pull the rod/piston down far enough to disconnect the piston from the rod. Push the piston back up and out through the top (head) side. Install new rings and install back into the cylinder as...

Sometimes, you can unbolt the rod and pull it back enough to remove the wrist pin and then push the piston up the cylinder and out the top. I might only do this if I was replacing a piston on one cylinder only. If I am doing both, I would also remove the crankshaft.

You cannot re-ring without removing the pistons from the cylinder. No offense but if you don’t know this, you probably don’t want to attempt on your own.

Sounds like a wore out or out of adjustment PTO clutch.

Power to the solenoid on the float bowl? Hear or feel a click when ley is turned on?

They are a beast of an engine when that Nikki fuel system is cooperating. Diagnostics on that throttle body can be a bear. Not worth the money to replace it.

FXT DFI, boat anchor. 😄

It’s not an FX850V. But if it were, this info is correct @StarTech.